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Hello everyone this is my first and introductory post here. I previously did a ground up on a 71 IIA and lately got bitten by the Rover bug again, now that I am up in MA and have a short and slow commute. I started out looking for another Series in the $5-8k range either rust free of preferably with a galvy chassis. It seemed like most the galvy chassis ones in that range were absolutely beat, and anything without a galvy frame usually had lots of extras but a dodgy frame.

So then I stumbled onto this 1992 Range Rover Classic. It is a base model without ABS or the EAS. It is practically rust free, has the normal northeast surface rust you would expect on the and suspension but no rot that I have found yet (cursory inspection, bet it will be completely toasted). I got to check it out on a lift, and saw no rot in the floors or wheel wells so we'll see. Another bonus, shes got Bilsteins on her. The truck has 99,000 original miles on it and was a one owner truck until 85,000 miles on Long Island.

It has since been owned by two non Rover people and basically had no maintenance done to it in that time. Problems I knew going in: 1. Leaky exhaust manifold on the passengers side 2. Power steering squeal 3. No heat (blower DOES work) 4. Entire center console/shift plate broken (goes along with 5) 5. Drivers side exterior door handle snapped off 6. 4 different tires on it

It was located a few miles away from Cityside Garage in Holliston, MA who I found nothing but great reviews on. Initial estimate for work needed is a little over $2k. The manifold studs are broken off in the head plus the rightside manifold was cracked. He suggested doing both sides with used heads because the top end will be apart. Track rod bent/steering dampner needs replacing. Replacing door handle. Power steering belt badly glazed, replacing belt. Oil change and coolant flush with head work. Transmission fluid and filter replacement.

What else it needs: four new tires. Man some people just amaze me. Its got 235/70/16s on the front and 205/80/16s on the rear. It has a BFG, a Michelin LTX, a Michelin XMS, and a Michelin XPC. Thank god those are almost the same diameter, hopefully the VCC is in good shape.

I managed to get a used console and shift plate, fuse box cover, and some switches at the pick and pull for $50, quite a pain in the ass to get them out. The truck there also had a rot free tailgate (even though mine is fine, considering grabbing it too).

I still need to fix the heat and get a radio for it too. Its turned into quite the project but I should have a solid Rover when all is said and done. And the pictures of course courtesy of the PO:




 

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Re the broken manifold studs. Try getting a thread repair specialist to look at them before removing/replacing heads. We have them here so i'm sure you have them there. Normally they can extract the broken stud(s) and repair the thread (helecoil) in position.

I would grab that tailgate too, even if you don't need it.

Welcome to the forum BTW, pics in first post is always good. Fill out your profile too, so us foreigners can see where you are from :)
 

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rufant said:
Re the broken manifold studs. Try getting a thread repair specialist to look at them before removing/replacing heads. We have them here so i'm sure you have them there. Normally they can extract the broken stud(s) and repair the thread (helecoil) in position.

I would grab that tailgate too, even if you don't need it.

Welcome to the forum BTW, pics in first post is always good. Fill out your profile too, so us foreigners can see where you are from :)
I had looked into getting them drilled and helicoiled but in terms of the labor and time I figured it was worth the investment to have the whole top end of the motor gone through and resealed.

Thanks for the reminder on the profile, all filled out now!
 

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Fair enough if you want to go that route. I would comp test/leak test/oil test the engine first to make sure the bottom end is still good before putting the extra $ into it, also do the valley gasket and have a good look at the cam (known weak point) while you have everything apart.
 

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Not a bad deal, Ive found it is nice to address everything at once finances allowing. It saves even more down time and you will eventually end up spending the money. broken manifold bolts are a PITA to get out with the head on the work bench I cant imagine how much harder it is with them installed. If you do have the top end taken apart its a good time for a new timing set cam and lifters. Also it may be worthwhile to have a new water pump installed as well as having the radiator rodded at very least. Congrats on the truck it looks good.
 
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