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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Apologies for a question on my first post but this issue is baffling me!

I've just purchased a 2002 DHSE Auto in Bonatti grey, I've bought it from my father, it's done 74000 miles with a full Land Rover service history, Dad has just upgraded to a TDV8 Vogue 8)

I'm very happy with the car except for one very annoying fault, one that I'm sure everyone on here is fed up hearing about, namely the ABS fault & traction failure lights illuminated.

When I bought it the lights weren't on, they came on at start up (ignition only) after about 3 days of ownership, spoke to the old chap & he said the same had happened to him about 1 year previously, the dealer plugged it into testbook, cleared the recorded faults but could not find anything wrong. It was then ok until I bought it! :roll:

Anyway, for me, the lights cleared themselves a few times but kept coming back & eventually were on all the time, so I took it to my local independant & testbook picked up a faulty ABS sensor & Brake switch. The Brake switch was replaced, but when the codes were cleared, the sensors were all reading ok & all lights were out so I was advised to try it & see.

All was fine for about 2 days & then I got both lights back on after shutting the engine down & restarting approx 5 minutes later. Lights stayed on for about 6 hours & then went out again. After this they stayed off for about 1 week, but now they are off & on quite regularly again, more often on than off.

The battery is fairly new, a few months old. I haven't checked the earth connections yet or the voltages as suggested in the sticky electrical post, but I'm planning on doing so.

Would you think this sounds more like a bad earth connection as described in other posts that can cause these faults?

Thanks in advance,
Brett
 

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Would you think this sounds more like a bad earth connection as described in other posts that can cause these faults?
That is possible.
Have you tried slamming on the brakes to see if the abs engages at all? It could also be a brake pressure switch, and a bunch of other things :D . Have you noticed any unusual braking behavior? One more thing, one of the abs wheel sensor could be loose...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Scott,

Yes I did an emergency stop on a wet road from about 50 mph & the abs worked correctly.

I've never had the lights come on during driving, which is when I would presume a realtime failure would happen. It's only when turning the ignition on.
 

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the abs lights should come on with ignition they stay on until you drive of above about 4mph
then they should go out
hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Nobby,

Yes I'm aware of how it should work. I should have made myself clearer above, when the car is behaving, the lights come on with ignition, traction control goes out after so many seconds, then ABS goes out after a few yards of driving.

What I meant about the faults appearing when I turn the ignition on, (when the car is misbehaving) when you do turn the ignition on you get a bong noise from the information centre followed by the message "ABS Fault", then another message "Traction Failure".

What I was trying to get over in my previous post was that if the faults were real, I would expect them to manifest themselves during driving, accompanying a real failure of either ABS or TC, not on start up when the previous shutdown was ok with no faults.

Cheers
 

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I think it's battery/charging related. Try there first as you mentioned in the original post. :think:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Rich,

Would you recommend carrying out the checks as per the sticky post on electrical problems or look at something more specific?
 

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I've been having problems with the ABS and TC lights as well. I had a brake light switch fail on my 1999 4.6 HSE and when I bought a replacement switch, it was a different style with an adapter harness. I put the switch in and the brake lights work fine now but my ABS and TC lights are now on all the time. I haven't tested the switch to see if there as an issue with it, but I have checked the ABS sensors and they are fully inserted in their mounting holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1. Battery Voltage Across Battery Terminals before starting any tests, no loads on = 12.83V
2. Engine off, all accessories on for 30 seconds, then off. What voltage = 12.17V
3. Voltage across battery at idle (no electrical load) = 13.78V
4. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (no electrical load) = 13.79V
5. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on) = 12.22V
6. Voltage at ALTERNATOR at 2000rpm (everything switched on) = 12.24V
7. Voltage drop between alternator body and battery negative (YES negative). Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm = 93.1mV
8. Voltage drop between alternator positive and battery positive. 2000rpm, max electrical load = 330mV
9. Check Voltage drop from Battery Negative terminal to 1st groundpoint on vehicle = 13mV
10. Check voltage drop from 1st ground point to block = 16mV
11. Check voltage drop from Alternator Housing to block = 3mV

First thing noticebaly wrong, the positive terminal on the battery was completely loose. (So much for full Land Rover service history :roll: ) Once tightened up the values for test 9 came down to 100mV.

Within 50 yards of driving it up the road after the +VE term was tightened both ABS & TC lights extinguished, & they haven't been playing up since! :dance: :pray:

From the other results I suspect the battery may not be too healthy, although this may be because it was not receiving adequate charge. I'll check it again next weekend & see if it's improved.

I'm quite happy the alternator is ok even though the figures suggest otherwise, I checked it with an ammeter & it's chucking out plenty of amps nice & steady.

Thanks for the assistance chaps :clap:
 
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