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Discussion Starter #1
2 days ago I picked up a 1990 Range Rover Classic with 3.9L, chamonix white, and 116k miles. Not a bad looking or running truck, little bit of rust, but right now I just can not get the park brake to release completely! The cable is stretched to the max and when the hand lever is released, the cable stays in its fully engaged position. I looked around at the brake system to see the adjuster and how the cable is ran, seems like it is tucked in there pretty good. This is my 1st 4x4 in almost 10 years and I really love working on stuff (bmw e30's mostly) and I'd like to figure this problem out so I can take the Range on the farm and see how it does.

So I guess what I'm asking is....Where should I start first? Should I disconnect the cable and try to work it until it free's up? Remove it completely? Should I go ahead and reduce the adjuster to get the shoes off of the drum and just try to drive it? Or does the brake have to be fully released to do that? Is there any way to be sure this is the entire problem and there are no t-case/vc/rear axle problems? I dont want this to turn into a nightmare!

Thanks so much in advance for any helpful replies!

-Aaron

PS I will add a few pics when she is cleaned up and shiny, but I really need to get her driveable ASAP!
 

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Hello and welcome!

On every rover I have owned I had problems with the e-brake and it's always inside the drum. I'm assuming you know it's a single dedicated drum and shoes mounted on the back of the transmission. It's a pretty straight forward procedure to disassemble and clean/lubricate and reassemble. Not too many parts but they get all gummed up. I would try to release the brake manually from under the vehicle with a screwdriver, oops, I mean pry bar. That might allow the truck to move. Just don't reapply the brake until it's been fixed.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dave, Thanks for your welcome & quick reply!

I've tried playing around and slightly moving the lever from underneath with a small pry bar, but that's about the extent of the effort so far. Going back to that plan tomorrow. So I should unbolt the shaft, take the drum/shoe apart, and just dissemble/reassemble with a clean lube? Brake parts cleaner and WD40 will do the trick? Will I need to loosen the adjuster to relieve the shoes or use a puller to get the drum off?

I'll try to get the brake to release by prying first, because right now I just want to drive the thing around the farm and test it out. I'll be working on things tomorrow and seeing how it goes, so I'll update as soon as I get back from underneath the truck...

Looking foward to getting out of the garage for photos, driving impressions, and some field fun! :pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: New Owner, Help Me Fix Her!

So I was able to get the brake loosened enough to take it for a quick drive, I think the exhaust/downpipe gaskets will indefinately need replaced, but more concerning is that I think my 4x4 may be gone. i couldn't pul a small grassy hill here and when I got out I only noticed skids from the rear wheels. What is the best way to check this? I dont quite understand how the BW transfer case and viscous coupling work but I do know that they go bad from looking at 325ix's. I jacked it up off the ground and let it idle in drive, only the rear wheels turned...does there have to be friction on the front to get them to spin? Any other stuff to look for that is axle/driveline related? Thanks in advance guys!

Best regards,

Aaron
 

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The case is a full time unit that is always engaged unless put into neutral. The viscous coupler has viscous fluid which under friction heats up and limits the slip between the axles. When cold, it will allow the front axle to slip so there is no binding, like an open differential. This enables it to be used on dry pavement. When the viscous unit goes bad, it will lock up and not allow any free play, which you will notice as tire chirps when turning in parking lots, but it will still drive fine. If allowed to remain like that for too long, it will wear out your differentials.
If your parking brake has locked up, and you were driving on grass, seeing tracks, then your front wheels are dragging the rears along. No problem with the four wheel drive. The parking brake is attached between the rear prop-shaft and the transfer case. Its a round unit, basically a drum brake. I once had mine lock up on me in my D-90 after snowboarding, because of the cold. I had to bang on it with a mallet to release it. Not the same as your problem (same results, front wheels dragging rears around) , but have you tried banging on it a little? Might free it up.
 

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Viscous couplings can go 'openwheel' as well as locking solid. Might be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks alot for the replies so far! I actually got the brake to relieve itself significantly before I was driving up the hill, and its definately the rear wheels turning, I got out of the truck leaving it in drive and watched the tires spin in the grass.

After some more inspection yesterday I found out that my driver's front axle has been grenaded somewhere near the hub. I was looking around at the swivel pin housing and noticed some metal chunkage wedged the bottom of the seal. Opened it up to find remants of what I believe is part of the stub axle, but still not 100% how the swivel pin/axle goes together there.

Definately something majorly broken though...I can pull the axle shaft in and out a good 1" and hear the clanking of metal. I turned the driver's side hub and it spins, but you can hear the broken parts contacting in the passengers side somewhere. The front driveshaft spins freely when the vehicle is running and speeds up as it should upon accelerating the engine...

Now I guess my question is: Am I able to repair the axle without removing the housing/front assembly completely from the vehicle? Or would it be better to replace the entire unit completely with something from a working parts truck? How can I determine if this is the stub axle or the main passenger's side axle? Or are there even 2 pieces? I've got a decently thrown-together shop manual in my possession, but I've never really worked on anything without CV joint/axle....

Any additional input is greatly appreciated, thanks for taking the time to help out a newbie!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay so a mini-update if anyone cares to read...

Finally took apart the stub-axle/swivel joint and found its 6 ball bearings lying inside of the housing. Not good I can imagine. Will be looking to replace everything from where it meets the solid axle outwards on my passengers side.

Removed my rear wheels/brake pads and the parking brake problem is significantly lesser, I guess that is because the rear pads were beyond worn and possible sticking too. Unbolted the front of the rear driveshaft from the parking drum, am I also supposed to removed the phillips-looking screws that look like they are holding it as well? Tried an impact driver on them, but not wanting to budge? Looks like a special tool...

On a lighter note, I'm going to be putting new brake pads on front and rear, new plugs/wires, and exhaust manifold/downpipe gaskets as well. Any recommendations where to buy parts online in the states? Respected brands, reasonable prices, timely shipping?

Any responses much appreciated.

Thanks again guys,

Aaron
 

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Had the exact same happen to me. Took out the threads on the stub axle. This is the place: http://www.rovahfarm.com/
Get the nut tool too. You'll need the new stub axle if your bearings were ground up and end up on the threads, you'll know because the nuts wont want to come off. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So after looking at a few diagrams and getting deeper into the world of the Range and how it all works, I believe it is indeed my CV joint that is broken. The stub axle looks good, I got the nuts off with a deepwall 2 1/4" socket. Everything came off clean, the CV joint is broken those are the ball bearings that I was describing earlier. It looks to have rounded out my passenger's side front axle as well, and scarred the swivel housing. I've got a lead on a local parts truck, hopefully I can get what I need at a reasonable price and in a timely manner.

Looking forward to getting mine is top running order, planning to take it to Colorado for the winter in a few weeks for some fun in the mountains snow. Lots of work yet to do, so wish me luck!

Thanks again for the input.

Best regards,

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I decided I'm going to buy an oem aftermarket cv axle from Ebay and clean up my swivel housing with a deburring tool and hope for the best. Started to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and its a total pain- these stupid locking rings are making my head spin, not to mention how the heat shield is integrated into the exhaust manifold bolts! Ah 20 years of rust and gunk, how I loathe thee...


Will keep you guys updated....if I can get this pulled off in the 2 weeks I have before my job in Colorado starts it will be an f'ing miracle. Wish me LUCK, I'll **** sure need it!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I purchased an axle and door handle from Marty at Overland Rovers a week ago. My parts haven't shown up and he doesn't answer my calls. Starting to get a little angry about the situation. Just taking some time to vent.

On another note, looks like 1 of my tranny cooler lines has busted somewhere along the way, judging by the pool of red liquid I found under the truck. I thought my e30 was a problematic bitch, but the Range has taken the cake!!!

Props to you warriors who stick with these things, mine is seriously on the verge of going to the scrap yard!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So the Range put up many a battle but as of right now I think I'm winning the war. Lots of major work done over the past few days and I FINALLY took it out and drove it. What a moment! So far this thing has been alot of up and downs, but as of right now I think its actually road worthy and will be doing some miles with it in the next few days. What the original owner told me was "just in need of some front pads and a quick look at the parking brake" ended up being the next closest thing to a nightmare.

The e-brake situation is not completely resolved. I've gotten it to adjust outward to relieve the shoes from the drum, but the little hydraulic cylinder where the cable/arm assembly comes in doesn't seem to work as great as it once did. I've lubed the hell out of it and worked it back and forth a hundred times, but as of now I'll just not use the brake unless I really do have an emergency.

My awd was disabled because of a broken front cv joint. I had a hell of a time locating a this part and ended up being saved by member DRhodes of this forum. Awesome dude, the man, whatever you want to call him- but I had a blast pulling parts from another 90 in his driveway. Just about everything I needed at a great price. I got the whole passenger hub, swivel housing, axle, etc. and bolted it on. Its non-abs but at this point I didn't really care, but so far it works. Picked up a sweet exhaust too, and a factory jack! Overall some really cool additions to the truck

I ordered an axle and door handle from Marty at Overland Rovers and the dude took my money and never returned any of my calls until I filed a claim with him thru PayPal. I thought I got scammed and bought the other axle, only to have Marty ship mine out the blue without contacting me only a day earlier. He still hasn't answered a single one of my calls or emails, and I've asked him to take the axle back on his 60 day warranty, but I'm sure that won't happen. BUT for anybody reading this, I would highly advise doing any business whatsoever with Marty Powell or Overland Rovers- unless you enjoy not knowing where your parts or money are and never hearing even a single word of a response from him or anyone.

Exhaust manifold gaskets were a total and complete bitch to replace and I don't think I've ever cussed more then during that job. Those stupid heat shield studs broke and it took 3 nuts being welded to the stud of 1 to finally get it out. Had a cracked manifold and got it welded up like the cheap ass I am, and it seemed to have drawn the manifold just enough to throw everything off just enough to make it mountable in every hole except for few. I bet that thing was fitted on and off at least 6 times. I'd recommend replacing them with tubular headers if you're able to, I wish I would've bought a set but as of now funds are a bit too low.

Replaced all of the fluids, bled all of the brakes, custom made 2 hydraulic hoses to replace faulty transmission cooler lines. SO much more but I can't even remember any of it right now. And I'm sure there will always be something else too. Lots of cool features on this truck, love the coil suspension and huge brakes. I'm glad to have it up and running and ready to take a trip in, so wish me luck, but hopefully none will be needed!
 

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Good on you for working through your problems. No such thing as a perfect Range Rover, just ones with longer or shorter 'to do' lists. Time for an off road jaunt to really see the benefits :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank You! It feels good to have put her back to life. I really want to get it offroad, but as of right now I drove it across country here in the US this week and I had to say it did really great! 1400 miles on it from Ohio to Colorado, now she's doing some hard time at 9000ft of altitude in the Rockies. I knew she wouldn't give out on me, what else does she need besides a winter in the mountains?

So small exhaust leak is making me a bit annoyed, but I'm hoping to have it welded up next week. Also having some idling issues, I think I will start by replacing my coil and cap and rotor, but first I'll be pulling a plug to see how everythings looking in the combustion chamber. I want to adjust my idle up a hair, but I'm not sure how to work with the MAF and all of that. I have a different unit on my car than stock, I'm not sure exactly but its made by Hibatchi maybe? With an open element cone filter, seems to do okay but I'd like to raise the idle.

As of other things on the immediate to do list:

-Fix my windshield washer system- I have no spray coming to the front or rear
-Check out the heater system- Defrost works after the car is good and warm, however I've yet to get anything but cold air to blow from the dash vents.

The list is definately getting shorter, so what else could really be asked for? Hopefully no headaches in the near future. I appreciate the opportunity to post and let the community in on all my absurd problems. I'll take some pics this weekend of the Range on the continental divide...this thread has gone on long enough without any pictures...
 
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