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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone!

Okay, so I did a lot of research, much on this site, and made the decision to go for it today. I purchased a 1998 Range Rover 4.0 and I love it! There are a few problems that I would love some feedback on.

1)The dash computer thing gives me 2 errors:
-Rear L WIndow NOT SET
- Sun Roof NOT SET

The dealer said it might be a short or something... any feedback? I did the troubleshooting per the manual but to no avail :(

2)I can't see any radio numbers on the radio screen, a light turns on but the numbers are all scrambled.

Also, the floor mats are old and I want to get some new ones(all-weather), any suggestions that you've been pleased with?

Thanks for any help or suggestions!
-Jess in Denver, CO
 

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OK fully open and close window in one continues operation then do the same with the sunroof. Page 69 owner's handbook
Tony
 

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The radio screens wear out. You can send the radios somewhere to be refurbished. Someone here should be able to give you the link and maybe an idea of cost
 

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Look on main site for radio repair> There is a pce of metal that might be needed to release clips so it can slide out. Ours just sits in its hole. lol. A friend picked up the oem set in the uk when on vacation so price from rimmer bros was good. However now that we have them the plastic clips on the front mats worked loose and a few bits disappeared. The plastic cogs also break so another drag. Also Rich has advised that those pieces are not separately available. Therefore buy the good aftermarket mat with the swirls in them. My brother in law has a nice set in his lexus [not sure if they are lexus oem] I really wanted the logo lol. Rear mats are a good fit but interlock in a less than perfect way. So, they are ok but not thrilling and I wanted thrilling. Let us know what you get and congrats on the purchase.
 

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Owners manual as Tony said, Roverville for the radio, Atlantic British for the mats. Oh, and your dealer is an idiot, I hope he is not a Land Rover dealer!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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NorCal RR said:
Owners manual as Tony said, Roverville for the radio, Atlantic British for the mats. Oh, and your dealer is an idiot, I hope he is not a Land Rover dealer!

x2

Especially the idiot dealer part.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for your feedback. I already tried what the manual says about the window and sunroof but nothing works. I also tried changing the fuse. Any more suggestions?

Okay, new things I've noticed maybe you guys can help me with.

The windshield jets didn't spray very hard and only out of one. So, I filled up the reservoir with washer fluid and it started coming out of the car in a steady stream. I think it needs a new washer tank but they cost like 200-250 to replace, so I was wondering if I could patch it with some sort of epoxy,resin or what have you?

I am having the front brake rotors and pads replaced next week for $475, so I'm trying to wait on major items. But I want to make sure the car is well maintained. I live in Colorado and my new 98 4.0 has just under 90k miles. Approaching the winter months, I'd love to know your thoughts on items that would make the biggest difference. I just ordered new pollen/cabin filters to replace and the air filter is clean.

Is changing the fuel filter some thing you would recommend me doing myself or to get done?

Also, some guy mentioned using that 44k fuel injector cleaning stuff.... thoughts please.

Any fluids I can change also myself?

Thanks,
Jess
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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welcome aboard! :thumb:
first off, stop!
getting the brakes done?????? do them yourself. the rr brakes are no more complicated than any oother disk brakes. i got all 4 rotors and pads for way under what you are spending!
all fluids are a piece of cake to change, drain holes for everything :clap:
you should be able to repair the washer tank. just google "washer bottle repair" or something similar.
for any used, or new parts, i use will tillery (roverguy.com IIRC). he gets a good discount at atlantic british and passes it on to his customers. his used parts prices are also very reasonable.
sounds like it would be cheaper for you to drive to our place in Missouri and get a hand doing brakes etc, than just paying for the front end brake job! :naughty:

martin
 

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Welcome aboard.

I second the opinion about doing the brakes yourself. If you do it yourself, and if you go w/ std stuff like vented brembo rotors and Lockheed pads, probably $160 tops.

90k is one of the major maintenance interval if my memory serves me correct, so if you haven't done so I suggest that you download RAVE and follow the maintenance check sheet for 90k.

Fuel filter, at your mileage, I don't think it's really necessary.... Not to mention, it's not exactly accessible....

Have fun and enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, well how involved is the brake change. I'm a handy girl but haven't fiddled too much on cars except for the basic. I haven't done brakes since auto shop in high school lol! I don't have that manual everyone keeps talking about. Could anyone scan me the stuff I need to figure it out? If I decide to do it myself, what types of rotors and pads do you recommend?

Thanks again!
Jessica
 

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Changing brakes is not too bad. Of course, it does get your hands pretty dirty, but if you wear one of those polyurethane or latex gloves, your hands come out of the job clean! I do this as well, btw.

Hardest part maybe is the lifting of the truck and setting the jack stands. Once you have the truck lifted and tires off, in order to get the rotor and pads replaced you have, I believe, exactly 5 bolts per side....that's pretty much it. If you're handy w/ a torque wrench, this job should be pretty easy. Rating the difficulty level of this job, 1 through 10, 10 being hardest, I would say this is 3. I almost forgot, you have to press in the caliper piston...If you go to a local autoshop and buy a widget that presses in the caliper piston, it's piece of cake...so, make sure to buy one..It's like $8.

As for RAVE, it's out there somewhere in the internet. Forgot where I got mine, but if you search for it in the internet, I'm sure you'll eventually find it.

I would understand if you're not too comfortable to do this yourself, but $475 is still too expensive. I would shop around or haggle and get around $300 or even less.....

Regards,
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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tophat36 said:
Okay, well how involved is the brake change. I'm a handy girl but haven't fiddled too much on cars except for the basic. I haven't done brakes since auto shop in high school lol! I don't have that manual everyone keeps talking about. Could anyone scan me the stuff I need to figure it out? If I decide to do it myself, what types of rotors and pads do you recommend?

Thanks again!
Jessica

http://rangerovers.net/maintenance/brakejob4.html

As for parts, buy the best you can afford to buy. Genuine Parts is ideal. Failing that Delphi/Lockheed rotors and Lockheed Delphi/Lucas/TRW pads. The TRW pads come with bolts and are probably the best alternative, but I don't know if you can get them easily over there. A set of guide pins are also worth buying just in case and they are pretty cheap as well. Again, Genuine Part for those. Also a set of 4 securing screws for the rotors. Chances are these have been butchered in order to re-use them in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What do you think about EBC Brakes? They are on sale for front and rear kit for $495. Here's the link.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9540EBC.cfm

Also, do I have to bleed the brakes after installing new ones?
I need all the help I can get!


Also, I need to remove the front wheel well liner to gain access to my windshild washer tank. How do you remove the tab things? Do I need a special tool?

Thanks,
Jess
 

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your dealer is an idiot
Haha, can't say I like dealers much either.

Jess : Bookmark this site, read it through thoroughly, come back often. These guys know their stuff. Chances are one of us has had the problems you will have and has come up with a solution. If you don't you will probably make good friends at the dealership. (find a local Indy shop)
 

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RE the Green Stuff kits, they are a pretty good alternative to Genuine. Saying that, the rotors are a bit of a waste of time and you can get away with a set of the Delphi/Lockheed discs for a fraction of the price. If you want to play with performance rotors, then make sure you get good quality ones - CRN for example if you lived in the UK. I think Dennis (Shupack) was selling a good quality manufacturer as well for the NAS market.

The rear pads are OK but the front I think the link is not quite honest - '6000 series pads are specifically made for 4x4 use.' - well actually the 7000 series pads are made for 4x4 use but they are rare and more expensive but far superior to the 6000's. I wouldn't use the 6000's on the front of a Range Rover again.

Also add to the list if you are doing this for the first time, a full set of Genuine Part guide pins (approx 25GBP for front and rear) and a set of 4 rotor securing screws - don't have the part number here but they are the same as the Disco2. The screws will probably be fcuk'd up by past owners/workshops.
 

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I'm in the market to replace rotors/pads as well (though in my case, I'm looking to actually doing the job probably 6 months from now), and also have spotted the EBC brake set on sale. The discount piqued my interest, but looking carefully at the front rotors, they appear to be solid piece instead of vented so I'm not sure if I'm gonna like that (It's possible that the rotors are vented, and the picture quality poor........)

Anyhow, in my case I'm probably going to go w/ Delphi or Brembo standard rotors front and back and Delphi-Lockheed pads all around. It appears to be the least costly alternative w/ proven -decent- performance.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I still can't decide to do the brakes myself or have them done. I have an appt for this Tuesday. I have been looking online and I have questions. Just to fill you all in, I am not looking for performance or anything crazy. I am a daily city driver so please let me know your thoughts on brands of rotors and pads. This is what I've found:

Lockheed Pads - front $47.95
Genuine Pads - front $89.95

What is the difference in price here? Am i just paying more for something that is a genuine replacement part because it is better or just a better name?

Front Rotor Genuine $99.40 (rovers north)
Front Rotor Genuine $119.95 (Atlantic British)
Front Rotor Ferodo $79.95 (Atlantic British)

Also, do I have to bleed the brakes after changing the rotors and pads?

Please help!

Thanks,
Jess
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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If you can afford the Genuine Parts, then do that. Lockheed are the OEM supplier for both rotors and pads for the p38. The pads do differ slightly from standard Lockheed labeled and Genuine Part in that I believe the pads are chamfered to avoid squeel. Saying that, the Lockheed/Delphi/Lucas/TRW pads I try to get come chamfered one way and come with bolts as per the Genuine Part.

As you can tell, trying to get to grips with non-genuine parts is a real pain in the backside. That's why I say go Genuine. Failing that, try shopping around some more. In the UK, as an example, Allmakes and Mintex sell a set of pads for the P38 for under £12 for an axle set. Don't be tempted. Anything that costs less than half the price of the Genuine Part is likely to be questionable quality.

Bleeding is a good idea just to ensure 100% efficiency but it is not always necessary to do. Just follow the instructions carefully about pushing the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper and ensure that there are no signs of leaking past the seal or uneven or excessive wear to the pads you take out.
 

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The difference between Lockheed and genuine in this case is probably just the Land Rover logo you get with genuine components. Lockheed, I believe, produced these components for Land Rover as an OEM. If you buy front pads from Atlantic British, at least from my experience, you do get the chamfered ones, so no worries there.

As for rotors, all the option listed is OK. If you're looking to save few more bucks, I've found Brembo rotors for $71/each at tire rack.

If you're not comfortable w/ doing the brake job yourself, then you should take it to a shop. Brake system, as you know, is fairly critical component of your truck......

Bleeding, I don't think you need to do them. Though it's a good idea if the fluid in the resevoir looks pretty dark.
 
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