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Discussion Starter #1
I've been reading over this forum on and off for the last year or so in anticipation of finding a suitable '95 LWB.

This morning, a perfect candidate for some sweat equity showed up at a local buy-here-pay-here lot.

Couldn't find any corrosion on the body or in any of the other usual places.
Looks like the previous owner painted the door handles, bumpers and TWR wheels in matte black. I plan to leave the bumpers and handles as they are.

As for the rest of the vehicle:


  • Fit proper "cyclone" wheels
  • Retrim the beige seats with black leather
  • Black carpet kit
  • Black Alcantara headlining
  • Cover other beige vinyl interior bits with black SEM coating or source black bits from the UK
  • Lift the front 1" and the rear 2-3"
  • Front brush guard
  • Mudflaps
  • Remove '90s-fabulous purple window tint
The power seats actually work (gasp!) but I'm going to pull the modules apart and make sure they're sound anyway. The only electrical gremlins are the inoperable drivers window and the rear view mirror, which seems to be frozen on the dimmest setting.







 

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All LSEs had air suspension? Why would you want to 'lift' it when you can do that at the touch of a button:)
With the power seats, you need to pull the seat ECU apart and change the battery soonest. That will stop the common scenario of the battery rotting and taking out the circuit boards.
 

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...The power seats actually work (gasp!) but I'm going to pull the modules apart and make sure they're sound anyway...
Double check the power seat ecu (underneath drivers seat) for a leaking battery. It's possible a PO has already changed this, as your seats are working. Make sure there's no corrosion damage on the PCB and components near the 3.6v mempac battery. Congrats on the find!
 

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Hi Mike, and welcome to the forum!

That's a very nice '95 LWB, and as bagospanners and pl626 have already commented, checking the ECU's battery condition is the best first step. I also purchased a '95 LWB in October of last year and discovered the original owner did have the work done, so I'm happy/relieved that the logic board and components are in good shape.

Also, you didn't mention it, but did the previous owner(s) remove the EAS air suspension and replace them with coils? Again, my original owner did that when there were problems too expensive (in his mind) to fix.

You also mentioned removing the window tint - since this was not an option on the County/LSE model (except maybe the 25th anniversary?), I can tell you that with no tint you have a great "rolling greenhouse" and good visibility all around - I like it much better than my 2007 Subaru that has dark factory tinted rear windows/hatch that makes it somewhat difficult to see out of unless it's really sunny out.

Let us know how it goes - I hope you love your truck and it functions like you hope! :)

Best,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Two questions for the experts as I've searched and couldn't find a definitive answer: does the 95 RRC require a different brush/grille guard, or will any 87-94 version work?

I noticed that the previous owner removed the "bumperettes" which should be on 95s and I'm not sure how that will affect fitment of the grille guard.

Second, there's a 94 Sable edition being parted out locally. Are 94 seats a direct bolt-in on a 95, or do they use a different ECU for memory?

Thanks for the kind welcome to the forum. I'll get some better photos posted up tomorrow.


Double check the power seat ecu (underneath drivers seat) for a leaking battery. It's possible a PO has already changed this, as your seats are working. Make sure there's no corrosion damage on the PCB and components near the 3.6v mempac battery. Congrats on the find!
Thanks for the info, I'll dig around tomorrow and check things out!

Also, you didn't mention it, but did the previous owner(s) remove the EAS air suspension and replace them with coils? Again, my original owner did that when there were problems too expensive (in his mind) to fix.

You also mentioned removing the window tint - since this was not an option on the County/LSE model (except maybe the 25th anniversary?), I can tell you that with no tint you have a great "rolling greenhouse" and good visibility all around - I like it much better than my 2007 Subaru that has dark factory tinted rear windows/hatch that makes it somewhat difficult to see out of unless it's really sunny out.

Let us know how it goes - I hope you love your truck and it functions like you hope! :)

Best,

Bob
Thanks, Bob!

I forgot to add to my original post that the EAS has been changed out to coilsprings by the previous owner. I'd just like to get another inch or two in the back to get that proper Range Rover stance.

With regards to the "rolling greenhouse" I completely agree. It's one of my favorite attributes of the RRCs. The diving position combined with incredible visibility makes them feel much, much smaller when lumbering around town.

All LSEs had air suspension? Why would you want to 'lift' it when you can do that at the touch of a button:)
With the power seats, you need to pull the seat ECU apart and change the battery soonest. That will stop the common scenario of the battery rotting and taking out the circuit boards.
Whoops, forgot to add that it has coils on it already. I knew I was forgetting something! Thanks for the info!
 

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Electric seats from about '90 onwards are all the same so no problem with swapping from a slightly earlier car. My LSE (what a LWB is called over here) had a coil conversion on it before I got it and it was diabolical. I don't think anyone makes a coil conversion specifically for the LWB so people use a coil kit for a standard Classic which means the rears are too soft for the extra length and weight. As I use my cars for towing I had headlights pointing skywards as soon as I put a trailer on or any weight in the back. I got springs that were 12% stiffer to put on the back which improved things but still not as good as the self levelling from the EAS. Had it not been for that I would probably still have the Classic and not a P38 which I bought specifically to get the EAS and it is so much better it is in a different world.
 

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Hopefully, your seat ECU will look better than this. However, it's not that hard to desolder the old battery.
Below is a closeup of the before and after.
 

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Two questions for the experts as I've searched and couldn't find a definitive answer: does the 95 RRC require a different brush/grille guard, or will any 87-94 version work?
I believe the answer depends on whether or not you want SRS to work. Not positive, but I think you may be able to tweak the 87-94 to work with the '95s SRS. If you don't care about SRS, then I think it should fit.

There are a lot of other unique parts to the '95s and the RAVE illustrations don't always show those differences.
 

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I believe the answer depends on whether or not you want SRS to work. Not positive, but I think you may be able to tweak the 87-94 to work with the '95s SRS. If you don't care about SRS, then I think it should fit.

There are a lot of other unique parts to the '95s and the RAVE illustrations don't always show those differences.
PC brings up a good point - since I have the brush guards on my '95, my owner's manual mentions that they work with the SRS, and as you probably know, the '95 was the first year for the "soft dash" and airbags on the RR. Of course I've heard a couple of local RRC (pre-'95) owners mention that airbags weren't on the older models and everyone still lived...so why bother with them now? My thought is that as long as they work, I should keep them working.

Have a good week Rovering!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe the answer depends on whether or not you want SRS to work. Not positive, but I think you may be able to tweak the 87-94 to work with the '95s SRS. If you don't care about SRS, then I think it should fit.

There are a lot of other unique parts to the '95s and the RAVE illustrations don't always show those differences.
Thanks for the help! I'm going to pick up a used brush guard tomorrow and will test fit it before I send it to the powdercoater.

Put 100 miles on it today to see how she held up. No issues whatsoever.

Here's the bumper in question. Looks like the p.o. replaced the bumper with an 87-94 style.

 

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That is a very smart looking vehicle. So don't fit a bull bar! They ruin the lines of the Classic!

Many RRCs had satin black bumpers from new - mine does, and it's the norm in the UK. In all honesty, if mine had chrome bumpers, I'd swap them for black - they're much better looking. That is a hard-dash bumper, though - the soft dash has crush cans that bolt to the chassis and protrude through the bumper, hidden behind plastic boxes. That's almost certainly to do with the airbag system - I suspect your airpbags would be oversensitive and could trigger in to low an impact. You don't want them firing unnecessarily as they cause injuries themselves, they're just better than hitting the wheel or dash in a hard impact!

As for the door handles, they originally came from the Morris Marina and Allegro (as did the Camel Trophy "Sandglow yellow"). All RRCs had bright silver handles in black recesses. The Discovery used the same design handles, but all in black, so it may be that yours are replacements where RRC stock was unavailable and the previous owner changed the lot to make sure they all matched. The clue will be in the surface - I think the Discovery handles had a smooth surface rather than the sand-paper texture of the RR's.

The wheels are TWR alloys, fitted as standard to the last batches of the vehicles and considerably better quality alloy (and more expensive) than the other options (Cyclone and CSK rims). Mine has TWRs too, and they have not a speck of corrosion despite a couple of kerb dings on the very edge of the rim and the marks from callous tyre fitters - even the rear sides around the hub seat is spotless, while the CSK rims I bought for my 109, which had to be blasted and refurbished professionally, got some corrosion under the powdercoat within two years of being installed after their refurbishment. I'd keep the TWRs, just having them repainted in the correct sparkle silver.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just noticed your rims, are the Plastidipped or powdercoated?
I'll check them tomorrow.
My guess is powdercoat, but plasti-dip is all the rage these days, so who knows.

That is a very smart looking vehicle. So don't fit a bull bar! They ruin the lines of the Classic!

Many RRCs had satin black bumpers from new - mine does, and it's the norm in the UK. In all honesty, if mine had chrome bumpers, I'd swap them for black - they're much better looking. That is a hard-dash bumper, though - the soft dash has crush cans that bolt to the chassis and protrude through the bumper, hidden behind plastic boxes. That's almost certainly to do with the airbag system - I suspect your airpbags would be oversensitive and could trigger in to low an impact. You don't want them firing unnecessarily as they cause injuries themselves, they're just better than hitting the wheel or dash in a hard impact!

As for the door handles, they originally came from the Morris Marina and Allegro (as did the Camel Trophy "Sandglow yellow"). All RRCs had bright silver handles in black recesses. The Discovery used the same design handles, but all in black, so it may be that yours are replacements where RRC stock was unavailable and the previous owner changed the lot to make sure they all matched. The clue will be in the surface - I think the Discovery handles had a smooth surface rather than the sand-paper texture of the RR's.

The wheels are TWR alloys, fitted as standard to the last batches of the vehicles and considerably better quality alloy (and more expensive) than the other options (Cyclone and CSK rims). Mine has TWRs too, and they have not a speck of corrosion despite a couple of kerb dings on the very edge of the rim and the marks from callous tyre fitters - even the rear sides around the hub seat is spotless, while the CSK rims I bought for my 109, which had to be blasted and refurbished professionally, got some corrosion under the powdercoat within two years of being installed after their refurbishment. I'd keep the TWRs, just having them repainted in the correct sparkle silver.
Great bit of history there Thanks for sharing it!


Made a run to the wrecking yard for a set of cyclones and a few one-button keyfobs. Had the always patient Mrs. assisting me with the fob programming. After 5-10 failed attempts to make the sequence work, it dawned on me that there were two hood switches. `)

The only issue now is to monkey around with the immobilizer and see if there's loose antenna connection. I have to be 3' from the drivers' door to activate the keyless entry.

Went out tonight and tried my hand at light painting with a small LED flashlight:

 

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...Made a run to the wrecking yard for a set of cyclones and a few one-button keyfobs. Had the always patient Mrs. assisting me with the fob programming. After 5-10 failed attempts to make the sequence work, it dawned on me that there were two hood switches. `)

The only issue now is to monkey around with the immobilizer and see if there's loose antenna connection. I have to be 3' from the drivers' door to activate the keyless entry...
I made that same mistake. It should be the one on the right (NAS passenger side). Or if you're facing the engine, it would be the left.

As far as the radius for the keyless entry, mine has never worked from a long distance, which used to frustrate me. Just another LR quirk...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not too much to report, but a few parts came in.

Picked up some new mudflaps, a polished aluminum OEM brush guard and a set of Cyclones with some nice Michelins on them. Gonna have to buy an angle grinde to take off the **** nuts on the old mudflaps. They're some sort of permanent bolt.

While diagnosing the lack of bass and rear audio, I discovered the previous owner took it upon himself to remove the subwoofer. Looks like I'm on the hunt for another part.

My $50 Conair clothing steamer worked wonders with the old brittle purple window tint.

16434047546_d26071b398_b.jpg

Much better!

16458313191_da1484c71d_b.jpg

I'm planning on plasti-dipping the polished brush bar back to black. Not sure the '90s California Chrome look is my style.

16289527528_471d69eecd_o.jpg
 

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...I'm planning on plasti-dipping the polished brush bar back to black. Not sure the '90s California Chrome look is my style.

View attachment 116026
Agree, it will look much better in black. Long time ago, I worked for LRNA and the engineers and fitters that came over from the UK used to poke fun at how so many cars in the states had so much chrome or bling. It only reinforced the notion in my mind that LR's shouldn't have any chrome...
 

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Love a tine free Range Rover! :thumb:
 

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Hi Mike,

Just writing to say that the truck really looks good and the windows look great! My RRC has chromed bumpers and I like them, but my brush guards are all black and I agree with others, brush guards look better in black!

Have a great week!

Bob
 
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