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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all!! My name is Joe and I just joined the forum. I am from Long Island and am considering the purchase of a 1997 RR 4.0. She is very clean with just 2 owners but has 160K and an overheating problem after about 20 minutes run time. The owner says it's from the headers. Could this be true? Any other thoughts to lok out for?

Thanks and glad to be here! :D
 

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there is a reason the PO is not fixing the overheating issue before selling (or instead of keeping it...) find out that reason.

It could be a small head-gasket leak that slowly pressurizes the heating system, then overheats..or it could be something simple like a bad viscous fan-clutch.

If it's cheap enough, it's worth getting and doing the head-gaskets. If he's asking a premium because it's clean, walk on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is cheap enough. As long as the fix would be under $1500 i would go for it. Is there a way I can check to diagnose for sure what is causing the issue? He said his mechanic would correct the problem with new headers for $1000. Maybe I should do that and put it on his mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's my thought and concern too. It's a nice Rover and if I could determine what is causing it I would buy it tomorrow. Any hints to determine what may be causing the over heating?
 

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let it idle with the coolant reservoir cap off, if it bubbles when cold, it could be the head gasket. Don't let it go too long, or the heat will cause the bubbling...

take it to a good shop and have them test the coolant for exhaust gasses, and have them give the engine a good look over.

Pull the spark-plugs and check the condition, excessive fouling or extremely clean (from steam) on one is a bad sign as well.
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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No Gin said:
Wouldn't she blow blue smoke if the head gaskets were leaky? Oil seaping through?
Sometimes, but normally if there's coolant getting into the combustion chambers it'll smoke white. Do like shupack said, check those things, and also check the underside of the oil fill cap for condensation. If it's there it's in need of a head gasket. Also, smell the dipstick...it'll smell a little sweet sometimes.

Ps...the guy telling you his mechanic said it was a header causing it to overheat is an idiot, and he either is trying to rip you off (not surprising in NY) or he's truly an idiot...either way I'd walk if he wanted more than $1500 for it. Hell...tell him you'll buy it on the spot if it's fixed since he's so confident that's the problem.
 

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It could be something as simple as a thermostat, that would be a cheap fix. The only thing headers can cause to overheat is your starter if they run too close to it. I agree with the other fella's, this so called mechanic sounds like an idiot. How about taking it to your mechanic and asking the seller to cover the bill? Is this so called mechanic one of the sellers buddies or licensed? Be carefull, there are many thieves out there, don't be afraid to look around if you have any doubts. Good luck, Big-T. :snooty:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the responses guys. I have a feeling the owner didn't know what he was talking about and told me headers rather than "heads." He gave me his mechanics tel number so I am calling him in a few. Will post results of conversation in a few. :dance:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
.... Yep Head gaskets!!

Now, should I go forward with it and do the head gaskets myself? How involved is it? Where so I buy the gaskets and necessary hardware for the Rover?

Thanks.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Well here's the catch. You could get the heads off, only to find one of them has a crack, or worse, the block is cracked, or even worse, the liner has slipped. Personally, if you REALLY have your heart set on that rig, I would tell them to fix it, then take it to a TRUSTED mechanic and have them go over the work, while also doing the typical pre-purchase inspections....especially a compression, leak-down test.

Good luck.

PS...there's a million of these available that are trouble free...why are you wanting to buy one that's been overheated potentially hundreds of times?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
"PS...there's a million of these available that are trouble free...why are you wanting to buy one that's been overheated potentially hundreds of times?"

Good point. I guess it was just price point... $1200. If anyone knows of any nice Rovers of the '97-'99 years in good condition under $2500 please let me know. I can do the majority of work on them but like you said, to uncover real problems like a cracked block.... no thanks! :mrgreen:
 

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Well you never said anything about $1200. If the rest of it is in good shape, it might not be a bad idea. You can get a rebuilt short block for 2500 or so (can't remember the price exactly). Since you know how to turn a wrench, I'm confident you can make it work.

Where are you located?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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he said he is in Long Island :thumb:

martin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah LI. I have 2 other trucks (1987 Jeep Wrangler and 1994 S-10 Lowrider) so I am trying to keep the cost down. I know I am up for a bit of a project truck in my price range which is fine with me. I just don't want something that may be more than I can handle and a $2500 engine swap is not in the picture for me at this time.
 

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Definitely a crapshoot. It may have a slipped cylinder liner. But, I'd say the buy in price is decent even with a complete new short block thrown in the overall cost. Search the forum, but I don't think there is a way to know if a liner is slipped until you get the heads off. You can probably find a salvage engine for just a couple hundred and freshen it up for a couple more hundred. Maybe locate an engine first so that price is determined, then go buy the Range Rover, and see if you need to buy the engine.

Good luck and good story. Keep us informed.

Brett
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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i just got a 140k mile gems 4.6 for $500. ran good, no leaks!!!! well none we can see anyways... :lol:
i got it to swap into mine, then rebuild mine and then sell the new to me one.
what i may end up doing is rebuild the $500 motor, swap it with mine, then maybe rebuild the one i have to the same specs and flog it. crowler cam, new rings, bearings, lifters, all new seals adn gaskets. remove the valves after testing the heads and relap all the valves etc.
motors are out there, and normally pretty cheap IMO.
book time to R & R a motor is just over 10hrs.
martin
 
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