RangeRovers.net Forum banner

101 - 120 of 125 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #101
Unsure if anyone can tell from these pics or not. Worth going back to seller for a full refund? They listed the motor as good running with a 30 day warranty.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Feel your pain on this one, it's not nice to keep getting one thing after another.

Clearly the seller could not have any idea of what's now apparent, so the claim of good working condition is absolutely false. They didn't know and therefore knowingly represented the item as such to sell it. Not sure where that leaves you or how much impact money wise. Logic at this point says to get out of it if possible. You can't now find out what else could be wrong without committing to it. Catch 22.

Technically the water could be in via a crack, but it's often on that cylinder by the water jacket passage that the head gasket is compromised.

The point brought up of new cam chain slack is odd too thinking about it. Could the bearings on crank or cam be compromised? I'd take off to inspect that front main bearing cap at least to see what that tells you. Put some pictures up if you do.

The cylinder wall of the wet bore is also compromised, looks like it's been rusting for a while and possibly needs minimum glaze busting, if not rebore to be in any way healthy.

If I we're standing in front of both of the engines, then I'd be considering an evaluation of the 3.5 and trying the cam chain setup on that to see if it's serviceable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Unsure if anyone can tell from these pics or not. Worth going back to seller for a full refund? They listed the motor as good running with a 30 day warranty.
Get a refund! Have you sent these pics to the seller?

Either rebuild your 3.5 or look for a 4.2 or 4.6 from a reputable seller. Check the other forums (Discoweb, defendersource, NAS-ROW) for someone selling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
Get a refund! Have you sent these pics to the seller?

Either rebuild your 3.5 or look for a 4.2 or 4.6 from a reputable seller. Check the other forums (Discoweb, defendersource, NAS-ROW) for someone selling.
They refunded $400 when they thought it was just the pushrod, however i did send the new pics this morning. On a good note, a local seller has a 3.9 longblock from his '95 that he had replaced with a 4.6. Also supposedly in good running condition but I will see if he can perform a compression test. It is listed for $300 which seems like a steal. I would rather use the new headgaskets on that if needed and ship this other junk back to the ebay seller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
$300 sounds great if it checks out.
I would not throw any more money into that knackered engine from eBay. You're 3.5 looks to be in much better condition!

There is this 4.2... not sure if it's still available. I would not hesitate buying from the seller. Been listed for a month... maybe he will come down on price.
https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f9/4-2-rrc-engine-156102.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
$300 sounds great if it checks out.
I would not throw any more money into that knackered engine from eBay. You're 3.5 looks to be in much better condition!

There is this 4.2... not sure if it's still available. I would not hesitate buying from the seller. Been listed for a month... maybe he will come down on price.
https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f9/4-2-rrc-engine-156102.html
Will check it out. As far as the motor from eBay, here is the response regarding my request for a refund. Spoiler alert, warranty is void once the engine is opened obviously and the seller will not assist in any further way.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #107
Another daft question. The 3.9 I purchased most recently has a much longer key on the crank. Could this have been from a serp belt car?

Here is the 3.5 and first 3.9 I purchased for reference:





And here is the replacement I had been planning on using:



The front cover from my 3.5 looks to fit onto this block, but now I am concerned about if the front main seal in my 3.5 front cover would even be able to seal as that key basically goes the length of the crank where the pulley would slide on.


One last question, for the Elring composite head gaskets, does it matter which side goes up and which side faces the block?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
The oil seal "track" is on the outside diameter of the rear side of the front pulley/balance damper, if that makes sense?

In other words, all of the base crank you can see is covered when you put the pulley on to the crank.

There's a difference as I understand it of some components for serp and non serp covers in the length of pulley etc but they are interchangeable. Both your front covers are non serp as far as I can see.
The blocks, as far as fitting different front covers are compatible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #110
The oil seal "track" is on the outside diameter of the rear side of the front pulley/balance damper, if that makes sense?

In other words, all of the base crank you can see is covered when you put the pulley on to the crank.

There's a difference as I understand it of some components for serp and non serp covers in the length of pulley etc but they are interchangeable. Both your front covers are non serp as far as I can see.
The blocks, as far as fitting different front covers are compatible.
But the seal for the front covers I have would not be able to seal around this crank with the long key i believe. It looks like a serp crank, so was unsure how that seal could wrap tightly around the crank with the key as long as it is. Does that make sense?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
I understand the concern you have but it may be move conclusive to view it slightly differently.

Without the front cover fitted, just get your front pulley and slide it onto the crank then spin the bolt in lightly.

You should now see where the seal interface is (outside diameter of pulley) as the whole crank visible before you put the pulley on is now covered.

None of the crank surface comes near the seal as it's too small a diameter, the pulley acts as a sleeve to bring it up to correct diameter to match the seal bore.

The keyway has to locate the pulley in orientation to the crank as the ignition timing marks are indexed by this to give correct timing relating to crank position. So the keyway locates both cam gear and pulley together.

Alternatively, push the detached pulley through an unfitted cover to see the interface.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
I understand the concern you have but it may be move conclusive to view it slightly differently.

Without the front cover fitted, just get your front pulley and slide it onto the crank then spin the bolt in lightly.

You should now see where the seal interface is (outside diameter of pulley) as the whole crank visible before you put the pulley on is now covered.

None of the crank surface comes near the seal as it's too small a diameter, the pulley acts as a sleeve to bring it up to correct diameter to match the seal bore.

The keyway has to locate the pulley in orientation to the crank as the ignition timing marks are indexed by this to give correct timing relating to crank position. So the keyway locates both cam gear and pulley together.

Alternatively, push the detached pulley through an unfitted cover to see the interface.
Thank you as always for taking the time to explain. I will try that tonight and that does ease my mind a bit. I was thinking it sealed around the crankshaft diameter itself. Few more seals to arrive and hopefully I will be able to start it within a week, weather permitting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #113
Spent time yesterday pulling the pan from the 3.5 to clean all the metal debris out as well as the pick-up. Got it mounted with fresh gaskets onto the 3.9 now.

For those interested, it was a spun rod bearing. Plenty of shavings, some an inch long, were just hanging out in the pan.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Someone has certainly been in there before on the 3.5, those punch marks seem to identify the rod and cap as #7 nice of them to put some decent fracture points into a critical assembly just so they can remember where the components came from!

Don't know what they've done there as I've never had a spun bearing in one of these, usually see them baggy and worn out from lack of oil changes.

Hope you're getting replacement sorted so you can enjoy it again.

You do learn so much running one of these though, slight understatement!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
I sure am learning a ton. So I finally started it yesterday and oil pressure didnt build quickly so I shut it off and ordered the tool to prime the pump. I had packed with vaseline but don't think its sucking up oil. Hopefully no damage was caused. Maybe that explains the lack of oil leaks so far haha.

Another odd thing that may be incorrect. The wiring was broken at the throttle potentiometer, so i pulled one from the 3.9 intake and installed on the 3.5 intake. The part numbers are different, but hoping I can swap those. When the truck started, it seemed to idle at very high revs so was unsure if that could be the cause, or if my timing is still too far advanced. As I need to pull the dizzy to prime anyways, I will deal with timing again soon enough.

But hey, it ran! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
the main difference between tps part no.s the 3.5 is/was adjustable, the later is/was fixed. you can check the sweep with software such as rovergauge or with an ohm meter. it cuts as it reaches maximum (90 or 95% throttle, it all in the rave), some other difference it may the plug but no biggie. http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/Rover_PDFs/Throtpot02.pdf
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm
two sites with lots of great info on the efi and tps.

Thanks for the link. With Mother's Day being over the weekend, I did not get to work on the truck, but I did take Friday off to spend time figuring out the high idle. Turns out I had missed the vacuum line coming from the fuel pressure regulator, doh. I had also pulled the valve cover and made an extension to fit onto my drill to turn the oil pump. After some time with that, I finally got oil up at the rockers and then once running, the truck sounded much quieter. I have a timing light on the way, as I just put it at 3deg btdc for now. I should be able to start driving it shortly, just need to tackle an exhaust leak at the header to y-pipe and get timing sorted).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #119
After nipping some exhaust leaks, and finding a missed connection at the alternator, the truck is now sounding good and charging. I drove it to work today in a ton of traffic and the EFI light came on. I wonder if my timing is still a tad advanced. It sounds and starts nicely, but is around 6deg btdc on idle with the vac line plugged. When i back it to 3, the idle is pretty **** slow and chokes a bit when the throttle is applied aggressively. The temp was mostly good through sitting in traffic, so seems the new water pump is circulating coolant nicely. However, the temp did raise a tad which i think tripped the EFI light. I don't think I have air in the system as much as it could use a new radiator and electric fan. I do have oil leaking still, seems to be at the valve cover so will troubleshoot that, but it is not nearly as bad as it was prior.

I tossed on the other covers yesterday as well:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
factory specs call for 6 degrees btdc timing, with a margin error of + or - 2. that make a max of 8 deg min of 4 all from 6 deg, I have run nearly all my dizzy rovers at 10deg. timing, all of the ones I have tuned have run like time pieces. my personal classics have passed emissions testing with readings as low as .01 ppm which is nearly as good as a hybrid, great fuel economy and splendid performance thru the complete operating range. as a bonus, hardly ever a check engine light. of course emissions results can vary based on engine age, oil, plugs, tune, o2 sensors and cats, but if all is in working order 10 degrees seems to be the happy point.
give it a shot, maybe just maybe the engineers got it wrong this time.
 
101 - 120 of 125 Posts
About this Discussion
124 Replies
18 Participants
zachdes
RangeRovers.net Forum
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals
Full Forum Listing
Top