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Discussion Starter #1
Part 1:

I had been daily driving a 1979 International Scout for the past couple years, and as much fun as the truck has been, the rust was getting out of control and my girlfriend did not enjoy the minimum three hour drive to get out of the city to camp. The truck lacked reclining seats, arm-rests, and overdrive, so not exactly a grand touring car. However, I love unique and beautiful older vehicles. That is when i started looking at the Classic. It has the styling I love, seemed very capable, and had leather reclining seats. We should both be happy with that.

That led me to purchase a truck from Kansas, which looked clean in photos, but had some bumper and fender damage. Here are some original photos from the seller:











I bought the truck and had it shipped to Michigan:





It arrived a couple days later:

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part 2:

After a mediocre cleaning:








It has a ton of little issues that need to be resolved yet, such as the non-functioning speedo/odo/power windows/rear tailgate latch, power seat-backs, and an EFI light.


I have been driving it for a week now and have replaced the driver side door handle, the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, filters, o2 sensors, and the speedo angle drive. The odometer is still stuck, even after physically moving the numbers with a screwdriver. I may just take it out and clean everything, as maybe the lube dried up. The speedometer works but makes an obnoxious noise so I have left it unattached to the cable and just make use with a GPS speedo. Just about every piece of trim in the interior is loose or broken, so I have my work cut out for me. I pulled the headliner and will order material to refinish that, and will use sound deadening before reinstalling.


I pulled the D-(E?) pillars as the vinyl was cracking and refinished:














I made a dumb mistake and broke off many of the plastic tabs to reconnect the "grill?" to the pillar, so I bought some black cap screws and attached them. Obviously this is not a restoration, so hopefully this won't offend any of you.








I have a Haynes manual but keep reading about this RAVE manual, so I will try to find that and read up on the wiring for the windows, as now that it is getting warmer, I would love to have the ability to roll the window down. I will keep updating as I make progress, but so far I LOVE the truck.
-Marc
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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The speedo on the 87 absolutely sucks, get a newer unit or just stick with the GPS.
 

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Check out roverland in Detroit for a fender, I think they're off of Oakman Blvd. They usually carry body panels, however their classic supply is sometimes limited. I just sold my parts truck off unfortunately and could have given you what you needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The speedo on the 87 absolutely sucks, get a newer unit or just stick with the GPS.
I took it apart thinking i could apply some new grease after cleaning but found that this little gear seems to have broken a tab off at the bottom. I will likely just bite the bullet and get a replacement from Atlantic British. That should last 100k miles hopefully. :)



Check out roverland in Detroit for a fender, I think they're off of Oakman Blvd. They usually carry body panels, however their classic supply is sometimes limited. I just sold my parts truck off unfortunately and could have given you what you needed.
Good tip, I will have to check them out.

I spent some time looking through the wiring diagrams and quickly determined that I did not have power to the window switches at all. It turns out, one of the connectors at the fuse block was pushed back so the fuse was not passing current. Then a few new connectors at the isolator switch, and now both front windows work. The back windows do have power at the switch, but don't function. I can however, hear the blower slow when the switch is applied, so I will have to open the door once the weather improves and see if the motor turns. As dirty as the truck is, I am hoping that the tracks may just be caked in dirt. Check out the switch:



I still have many cut wires that I need to sort out:



I also want to try JB Welding the back of this trim, so I can replace the aftermarket cassette player with a bluetooth unit soon, as I plan on hiding a mic somewhere when I apply sound-deadening and reinstall the headliner.

 

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Congratulations! 87 was a good year - the second of the "phase 2" models and because it lacks most of the silly electronic "enhancements" o the later models it is relatively simple to fix. Looks as though you are running BFG KO2 tires too - excellent in all conditions.

As you have already discovered, the real PITA of these cars (other than rust) is the dodgy Lucas components and associated wiring. Just keep at it- a small brass brush, a good dose of electrical parts cleaner and a lot of patience can do wonders.

Best wishes - Alan (now on my 7th and 8th Range Rovers)
 

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Ty Alan. I do plan on cleaning a lot of these contacts.

I was curious why the tachometer was not functioning and believe it is simply due to a wire not being connected at the alternator. I believe this is a 4 wire GM plug that is installed, and the brown/white wire that I think sends signal to the tach is hanging loose.







I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEP9GK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which looks to be the same, but now I will be able to connect the loose brown/white wire, to what i believe should be the "P" connection at the alternator. Hopefully I do not cause any permanent damage if I am wrong. Anyone running the same plug?

I mentioned before that the EFI light was on. It lit on my first road trip to visit family a few hours away, but the truck did not seem to run any differently. When I arrived I checked the plug wires that I had replaced, as well as the distributor cap. One wire seemed a bit loose at the cap, which I pressed down. A few days later I had the o2 sensors replaced along with the plugs and fuel filter. The light stayed on, and it did not occur to me until reading that I needed to disconnect the battery to see if the light would remain on or not. I did that yesterday while looking at the alternator and the light did not come back. Only one warning light remains, the oil (i think pressure) light. The level is good on the dipstick. The light flickrs occasionally like it is an electrical problem. I had ordered a replacement from Atlantic British, but the mechanic said the threads were different, so I will order the other sensor as there is a leak there anyways.

I also may have sourced a replacement radio surround due to the incredible generosity of a forum member, pending a a short road trip.

Any advice for removing stubborn screws from the upper tailgate to adjust the rods? Luckily the struts are worn so it stays closed anyways, but it would be nice to lock the truck completely while I have tools sitting in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did not have a ton of time today, but i opened up the passenger seat controls as the seat was only moving in certain directions. Verified the switches had power, so spent some time cleaning and reassembling. This truck is so simple to work on, I love it! Now the switches work properly. One more thing to check off of the list.

 

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Re tailgate adjustments - this is something that will drive you mad until you get it to work properly. Despite the weight and the struts, the upper tailgate will open itself if the road is rough.

The two cover strips over the connecting rod need to be removed to get at the adjustment. There are several small Philips head screws holding each strip in place. Give them a good soaking in BP Blaster or equivalent before you try to remove them. Once off, do the same with both ends of the adjusting rods until they can turn easily. With two small spanners, increase or decrease the overall positions until the centre button releases each side at precisely the same time.

You may find that the latches themselves - or most likely the adjustable end plates have worn. With the former, if they are badly worn, no amount of adjustment will allow them to open and close correctly. The internal springs can also wear or break

The end plates will move relative to the catches - again, give them good dose of penetrating oil then use a large Philips screwdriver and a hammer to loosen the screws They are especially susceptible to wear but replacements are not expensive and are available from the usual RR suppliers and it will be worth the cost to replace them

Re seat switches- they are a swine of a job to service. See my blog article at http://www.graemecooper.com.au/blog/the-dreaded-electric-seat-switch/

RRC Upper_sidelock_catch.jpg upper tailgate strike plate.jpg Upper_tailgate _screw.jpg
 

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One additional point on the above - the screws are pozidrive not philips. If you don't have a set of pozidrive screwdrivers or bits then I would definitely invest in them. Especially for anything that's stuck, the design of the pozidrive screw/screwdrivers will greatly minimize your chances of rounding off the screw head.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a set of pozidrive screwdrivers in my shopping cart on amazon. Before I purchase I wanted to check opinions on using sound deadening, such as dynamat or fatmat on the ceiling. The windows of the truck are so large I am unsure if if it worth applying that material or not. I would love to quiet some of the rattles a bit before installing the headliner. Any success or failure stories?

I have a replacement speedometer on the way from Rimmer Bros, as well as a new turn signal to replace the cracked passenger side, and a turn signal switch. The current switch has a broken hazard switch up top and occasionally I need to play with it to get the signals working. The PO also told me that if the ignition switch doesn't turn, try messing with the hazard switch. I have not had the cover off of those yet to see how that would be related, but I have had two occurrences of me having a heck of a time getting the key to turn.

Yesterday I verified that I have power to both back window switches at the door as well as the switches on the center console. I replaced one switch so now power gets through, but no movement yet. I will keep at it.

Finally, I mentioned in a previous post that I disconnected the battery which reset the efi light after having the o2 sensors replaced. I drove to see family over the weekend and the truck felt completely different on the highway. It had much more power and had no problems cruising at 75. It was especially noticeable on hills. Thank goodness.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The speedo from Rimmer Bros arrived:



They of course offered to replace but i just used my original fascia(whatever it is called). The speedometer now works, as well as the odometer. I also replaced the turn signal switch. The replacement did not have the lighting so I tried my best to retain using the original parts:



Now the switch works correctly in both directions as well as the hazards. However, it seems that the indicators on the dash are much more dim now, so I may need to dig back into that.



Any tips on removing the stain from the steering wheel? It is pretty disgusting.
 

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Assuming it is vinyl and not leather, try something as simple as "spray and wipe" and a soft cloth. You may need several applications. Do NOT use acetone or it may destroy the material. If it is leather, on of the proprietary leather cleaners would be safest
 

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Very cool Range Rover! CONGRATULATIONS!!! and welcome.
 

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Assuming it is vinyl and not leather, try something as simple as "spray and wipe" and a soft cloth. You may need several applications. Do NOT use acetone or it may destroy the material. If it is leather, on of the proprietary leather cleaners would be safest
I believe it is vinyl. I had wiped it a few times but it seems pretty deep. I do occasionally lust after the walnut steering wheels by Myrtle Productions. Maybe I can splurge for one of those someday.

Very cool Range Rover! CONGRATULATIONS!!! and welcome.
Thank you much!

So I screwed up yesterday after work. It was a beautiful day so i started to clay the side of the truck. I got down to the side molding and really wanted to see the lines of the body, so I used my heat gun to pull it off. I then cleaned up the adhesive and noticed that the driver's door lost some paint in the process. The rear door and fender look great. I have a touch up pen on the way, but now am debating on how to handle the door. I may just do the other side, get my passenger fender ordered, and have them painted when the fender arrives, as it needs to be replaced anyways. Any suggestions or lectures would be appreciated... :doh:

 

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For the steering wheel - a standard leather cleaner should be fine most double as a vinyl cleaner I've had luck with Meguiars, but have just started using Chemical Guys cleaner which seems to be even better.

As a last case scenario, try a magic eraser on a small part and make sure it doesn't pull off the colour, and then continue with the whole wheel. Magic eraser is great on leather I use it on my ivory leather as it likes to show any dirt or blue from jeans. Being vinyl is a bit more durable, I think it'd be fine on your wheel.


For the paint, go to a body shop and persuade them to match your paint colour (paint fades over time, so if you buy the paint code it will be different). You can then touch up your door handles and fix the missing paint, I don't think it'd be too bad for white. If you need a spray gun, Home Depot sells an all in one spray can that you can load the new paint into. I've used it it's not bad.
 
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