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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently traded my 958 Porsche Cayenne S... I purchased another vehicle for daily driving and miss an suv. After searching, I have found a 2010 Range Rover Supercharged about an hour and a half from me. 96k miles, on and off service history through Land Rover and indy shops.

Hoping to see it within the next few days... few photos below. Thoughts/suggestions? It appears to be at a medium sized used lot which raises some flags but looks "decent" through photos. We all know how quickly that can change. :alien:

I've also found an HSE in Green (The only color I'm after) My main concern is will it have enough power. I'm hoping the SC checks out but the HSE is a back up option.

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It'll have A LOT of power. The 5.0 NA is good on its own so Supercharged will seriously put you in your seat. As for concerns, listen to the engine while its running. If it sounds like a diesel then the timing chain tensioner may be getting ready to need to be replaced. 98k is more than my dads had when his needed that job. Take it for a seriously long test drive if it sounds right and smooth. Let it idle for about 10 minutes. Sit with it after it's shut off for a good 10 minutes. Had I done any of these things when getting my Pop's 2010, we could have avoided a lot of headache and saved a lot of money.

edit: Also check the upper half of the tail gate for rust. Check that all the electrical things work, look at the airbags and see if they have signs of dry rot or general aging. Just some tips for you.

As for your main concern, it'll have plenty of power.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input. Hoping it goes over well. Love the green. Does yours have the upgraded HK audio? 1200 watts I believe? This one doesn’t but I can always upgrade I guess. Hoping to learn a lot here.
 

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Here is what I've learned with my supercharged nearing 90k that I got at 50k

Timing chains already done

Transmission fluid done at 50k and 80k

Check the dynamic suspension strut wires now before they corrode

Upgrade (if not done already) coolant pipes under the supercharger. These go catastrophically. Replace the rear pipe while at it
Supercharger coupler seems to go every 50k. Or so. I'm going to change mine soon with the supercharger oil and the rear pipe since the supercharger needs to come out.

Along the same vein, take care of water pump and thermostat often. The engine is very sensitive to overheating. Other hoses seem to last

You'll want to replace spark plugs probably

Start putting in bg44k as the injectors can have issues and are expensive

Random electronics go out. My rear camera and adaptive dynamics module went out.

I replaced the struts.

Also, find a good indy for the PPI. I took it to the dealer and while they did a good job, the indy I sometimes goes to takes pictures of any rust, body damage, etc. And I could've used it to negotiate probably

Otherwise it's a great truck. People think it's much newer than 2010 and always comment on unreliability. As long as you stay on top of maintenance you won't have issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is what I've learned with my supercharged nearing 90k that I got at 50k

Timing chains already done

Transmission fluid done at 50k and 80k

Check the dynamic suspension strut wires now before they corrode

Upgrade (if not done already) coolant pipes under the supercharger. These go catastrophically. Replace the rear pipe while at it
Supercharger coupler seems to go every 50k. Or so. I'm going to change mine soon with the supercharger oil and the rear pipe since the supercharger needs to come out.

Along the same vein, take care of water pump and thermostat often. The engine is very sensitive to overheating. Other hoses seem to last

You'll want to replace spark plugs probably

Start putting in bg44k as the injectors can have issues and are expensive

Random electronics go out. My rear camera and adaptive dynamics module went out.

I replaced the struts.

Also, find a good indy for the PPI. I took it to the dealer and while they did a good job, the indy I sometimes goes to takes pictures of any rust, body damage, etc. And I could've used it to negotiate probably

Otherwise it's a great truck. People think it's much newer than 2010 and always comment on unreliability. As long as you stay on top of maintenance you won't have issues
Thank you! Valuable input. I thankfully have a great Indy shop that will take over if I decide to move forward. Unfortunately this is out of town so I’ll have to go off reviews to find a decent place.
 

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If you can’t budget $5k a year in unexpected repairs in ADDITION to book maintenance, pass on a Rover. HARD.

It’s an enthusiast’s vehicle.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you can’t budget $5k a year in unexpected repairs in ADDITION to book maintenance, pass on a Rover. HARD.

It’s an enthusiast’s vehicle.


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True! I’m an enthusiast and totally aware of the possible outcomes. I don’t expect it to be a Honda.

If my B5 S4 hasn’t killed me, I think I’ll be okay. 😂 If it completely blows up, my 90 LS400 always has my back. Can’t kill it 🤷‍♂️
 
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If my B5 S4 hasn’t killed me, I think I’ll be okay. 😂 If it completely blows up, my 90 LS400 always has my back. Can’t kill it 🤷‍♂️
Range Rovers are so much easier to work on than Audi's, better access to things. Plus they never (ok, almost never) completely blow up. In 3 Range Rovers and around 250k miles, I've never spent $5k/yr on unplanned repairs.
 

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Range Rovers are so much easier to work on than Audi's, better access to things. Plus they never (ok, almost never) completely blow up. In 3 Range Rovers and around 250k miles, I've never spent $5k/yr on unplanned repairs.
Do you do your own work? If you’re not counting labor and parts markup in your figures, it’s apples to oranges.


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True! I’m an enthusiast and totally aware of the possible outcomes. I don’t expect it to be a Honda.

If my B5 S4 hasn’t killed me, I think I’ll be okay. If it completely blows up, my 90 LS400 always has my back. Can’t kill it
Still have a ‘12 FFRR and traded my leased ‘20 Evoque in on a ‘21 4Runner. That’s my new “old” reliable.


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Do you do your own work? If you’re not counting labor and parts markup in your figures, it’s apples to oranges.
That's true to some degree but I've also gone years without a single unplanned repair. In fact my '12 has never had an unplanned repair in the two years I've owned it. Since it went off warranty 5 years ago, its had two unplanned repairs for a total of $9,500, both done by LR dealer before I owned it. You could argue that the $4,500 for air cartridge replacement at 7 yrs should have been a "planned" repair but I'm including it in the total.
 

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That's true to some degree but I've also gone years without a single unplanned repair. In fact my '12 has never had an unplanned repair in the two years I've owned it. Since it went off warranty 5 years ago, its had two unplanned repairs for a total of $9,500, both done by LR dealer before I owned it. You could argue that the $4,500 for air cartridge replacement at 7 yrs should have been a "planned" repair but I'm including it in the total.
I want to warn everyone about what they could encounter and how not everything is best interpreted at face value, as written. You had a good ownership experience and I had an expensive one.

I bought mine with religious dealer maintenance, and continued services every 5-6k mi, repeating the book’s line items after I crossed the 150k mark. Got the big one done at 150k. All items listed in owner’s manual.

Perfect example of my unofficial “enthusiast vehicle”designation. Unless you KNOW Range Rovers, you won’t know what’s not in the maintenance schedule. Fluid change intervals should really be half what they are listed in the manual. No such thing as lifetime fluid.

Remember, lifetime parts, as most people would interpret it, would last until the END of the written maintenance schedule in the manual (150k miles), the implied life of the vehicle, and not result in vehicle disablement or fail catastrophically.

If there is an item that would result in serious injury or death to occupants if it failed going down the interstate at 80 MPH (air strut!) it should have a listed replacement interval, if it is not a part that fails gracefully.

Average Joe who wants a nice looking SUV will think he’s doing it justice with by-the-book maintenance. Being owners we all know how cringeworthy 15k mi oil change intervals sound now.


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I don't disagree with your points or doubt your experience, ddm2k. As they say, your mileage may vary. Funny thing, I've never been one to follow maintenance schedule at least not in terms of replacing things. I do oil every 5-7k depending on if I have a long trip coming up. Other things like air filters shouldn't have a time interval, they should be checked and replaced when necessary.
 

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Here is a list of what to expect with a RR at that mileage.
First of all the Ford 5.0 engine has a timing chain tensioner issue, service bulletin LTB00474NAS3, the car may need this addressed right away or it may go to 200,000 miles. This repair costs 5 to 7k at an indy shop, once this repair is done you should be good to go for at least a hundred thousand plus miles. If this repair has already been done then you are already winning.

Also plan on replacing air struts and both front lower arms, these can be done in your driveway or home shop, do not buy any of the air strut rebuild kits that are $100 on line, trust me when say that they will not hold air properly. Order the Delphi struts from Atlantic British, they run about $400 each.
 

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