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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I had the windshield replaced by Autoglass UK (through insurance) and I must say, I am not really impressed...

ok my car is over 22 years old , but this does not mean that whoever works on it can treat it like garbage.

smears of silicone on the paint, cracked pillar covers , black putty in place of double sided tape and clip fittings, badly fitted screws and rubbish left on the matts....

no, I must say I could never recommend Autoglass uk, the sad thing is that they appear to be the best...bah!8~

today I spent a good couple of hours ours cleaning and refitting the lower screen finisher (I actually fitted a brand new one) and glueing back the door seals that were just held by a black putty.

just we weeks ago I personally did the plenum overhaul and modification so I know exactly homall clips, fittings and seal condition was.

Once finished I tried to check with the Nanocom (not impressed by that one neither....) if there was a way to test the heated windshield functionality but I could not figure out how does it work...

I can can access the hevac (sort of) there I can test the display functionality as well the backlight , but when I click on then button to start the heated screen test I cannot see anything happening....

how do I know the idiots who fitted my windshield did actually connected it correctly?

Do I need to wait for a frosty morning?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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84 Posts
Frozen windscreen is the best way! You could also remove the cigarette lighter and check the voltage with a meter as you turn the windscreen heater on. You should see a voltage drop.

Kevn
 

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Easiest way to check the heated screen is by measuring resistance. Pin 5 of relays 4 and 5 should have have a path to ground through the right and left heater elements. Resistance should be similar and very low (to allow 30A to flow).

Filip
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
engine must be running in order to activate windshield circuit, otherwise all tests are invalid.
 

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I had my windscreen replaced this week (by Autoglass in SW London - they seemed to a decent job, but maybe I was lucky, and it was two cancellations before they got the right screen/ finisher strip). The two technicians just put their hand on either side to feel the screen warming up. And I've had cold mornings since to prove it. If you hit the defrost programme button and the back window clears with the vents pumping out hot air then you know the defrost programme is activated, before testing the front screen.

There were two plugs at each end of the screen - one under the black abs panel to the left of the plenum grille/ cover, and the other under the right - would be hard to forget to connect those, but easy to check. There was also a third lead in the middle, which I think connected to an earthing post below the plenum cover.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You think that was a bad job.

The guy that turned up from Nationwide Motorglass (not National Windscreens) actually cut the cables off of my brand new heated windscreen!

I found out because, like you, I wanted to make sure it worked. When I found it didn't (rather quickly), and found the remains of the ripped off positive leads still flapping about down the inside of the wing, I checked the grounds - both missing.

Luckily, I had the job done at work under CCTV - and it caught him take side cutters to the leads on the new glass. What was his hope? That I wouldn't find out until winter by which time its too late?

Pictures and video emailed off to them and someone else came and did the job properly - and he did a great job too.


Anyway - to easily test the heating without tools, with the engine running, press the windscreen heat button - you should hear/feel the revs drop a bit as its quite a big load on the engine. If it dips, its at least connected up and working in some way!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The trouble with the electrical load/feel the warmth tests is that they do not fully test all the windscreen elements. When I have had my windscreen replaced I have used an extension lead and a kettle to steam up the inside of the windscreen with the screen vents covered (old tea towel). Then selected the ‘Prog’ button and watched to see if all the elements work to clear the windscreen.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
guys you are scaring me!! (i.e. pocking my OCD....)

I did see they put a knob of silicone in a spot where I recall there was a sort of "ground" , but I might be wrong. I did the plenum few months ago and I remember seeing the wires from the screen, but to be sure I should take the plenum off which is a job I would refer not to do unless it is strictly necessary

Anyway, Autoglass gives a lifetime guarantee on their work (at list the should) , so if is not working I will just get them to fix it... although that would really piss me off , there is nothing that angers me more than a poorly done job....as it takes the same time as the one properly done
 

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I suppose you can see the heater elements running through the screen? they turned up with a non heated screen for my first cancelled appointment
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
Yes the screen is the correct one that was the first thing I checked.

My concern is that it looks like they did not remove the plenum , then I could be mistaken... plus maybe they had a trick to hook the screen to the loom i.e. pulling -cutting-joining-taping the old wires ... and that would really (really) piss me off.

I will try to see if it works , with some luck the "beast from the east" will bring some good frosting in the next couple of days...
 

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Yep, they shd have removed the plenum, and the left/ right abs panels. When they ( i had 2 fitters) arrived they said 30-45 mins, it took them about an hour and 3/4s in the end
 

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Check for continuity first,as it's easy. If that fails, you'll need to take off the plenum cover to check wires and connectors. If you do have continuity, steaming up the screen will allow you to make sure all wires are working.

Don't panic just yet. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Check for continuity first,as it's easy. If that fails, you'll need to take off the plenum cover to check wires and connectors. If you do have continuity, steaming up the screen will allow you to make sure all wires are working.

Don't panic just yet. ;-)
never panic, I just get furious and I feel the urge of killing someone with my bare hands...

Anyway, I tested it earlier this morning as I woke up with a nice frosted car; after starting the engine I covered the dash vents "just in case" and turned on the windshield 20 ... seconds later you could see the thing working and all the frost melted.

I still have doubts they took off the plenum then maybe they just lifted it a little a fished out the connections... now that I think of that I did see the seal on the firewall "disturbed" and badly fitted, in any case whatever they did , there is a proper procedure and it looks that they did not follow it.

This is not the first time I have Autoglass working on my car and unfortunately this second experience proves to me that you cannot keep them out of sight when they do the work or they will always cut corners; I though that by going directly to their garage it could have been better but that was not the case.

My previous experience was a couple of years ago with a mobile unit that came to fix my rear quarter glass panel that misteriously exploded in my driveway

the Autoglass Guy asked me to leave as he wanted to work alone and re-assured me that he was a true "professional" and he would take good care on my car.

Leaving aside the fact thet the window is not really straight as it should.... I found foam bits under the car that were supposed to be glued to the finisher to avoid flapping around which really annoyed me.

Few days later my I realized my radio stopped working properly and I though nothing until the day I got it overhauled and still did not work....

on ispection I found that the wire connecting the aerial Amplifier to the glass antenna was missing, most probably the "professional" threw it away; now it could well be that my car (late 95 production) had maybe a different way to connet the amp to the antenna, but the least the guy could do was telling me and I could have done something before getting crazy in trying to find a fault in my radio...

next time I will supervise the "professional" and if he does not like it, they can go and call somebody else...
 

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For that reason I won't let anyone work on my car if they aren't prepared to let me watch. I just tell them, if I can't watch, I'll find someone else to do the work.
 

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Good to hear it's working as it should. :)

Like you guys, I will also insist to stay with my car for any work done. The amplifier not being connected (or the wire simply cut) is a classic when the rear quarter glass is replaced by a professional...

Filip
 
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