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Discussion Starter #1
Alright - so here's the story - I have a 1998 Rover SE 4.0 and I went to go have u-joints changed in my front prop shaft because of a vibration. Upon pulling the front shaft it was discovered that someone had replaced the shaft at some point and put one out of something else in the Rover. So we took just the rear flange from the drive shaft and bolted that back to the transfercase (because the transfercase side bolts for this thing do not remove without pulling the other side of the flange from the output shaft) and left the rest of the shaft out and I drove it home like that (only the rear shaft and the flange bolted on the front, no front shaft).

Now - it drove just fine. No noise, vibrations, nothing. Perfectly quite and smooth.

So - first question - and I don't think I did - but could it have damaged anything driving it home like this (less than 5 miles)? I don't think it did because there was no noise or weirdness or error lights or anything.

And second question ...
So I ordered a new front prop shaft, bolts/nuts, and the special sized socket tool all from Atlantic British and they should be arriving tomorrow. Has Anyone done this before? Know which size wrench(s) I need (I've got the tool coming for one side of the nut/bolt setup - I'm wondering about the other side). Also - I read on the Rave that you can lift one of the front tires and turn it to get the prop shaft to rotate - can anyone confirm? I went to remove the shaft myself and had the whole front end up on jackstands and couldn't get the drive shaft to rotate - hence why I took it to a shop so that all 4 tires could be off the ground, but now I know it's not supposed to be on a 2 post lift I figured I could bolt this back up myself.

Thoughts? Concerns? Ideas?
 

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you only need to get both front wheels off the ground until you hook the front end of the prop shaft up. Just make sure you have the front yoke in the proper position before you bolt it up and you should have no problems. The reason you can't turn the front wheels when they are off the ground but still hooked up with a prop shaft in place is because it's an all wheel drive vehicle all the time. :think: As far as I remember from the last time I pulled mine out all you need is a 9/16 socket and wrench to hold the bolt, Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So just to be clear - proper procedure would be:
Lift entire front of vehicle - place on jack stands

Bolt front of shaft completely up (by turning wheels and there by the pinion yolk) - bolt up what can be reached on rear of shaft (due to limits in transfercase - most likely only ONE bolt)

Lower vehicle down and raise only one front wheel and turning this one wheel should spin the output on axle - which is then connected to the transfercase (if only by one bolt) thereby letting me reach the rest of the bolts on the rear flange?

Also - wrench sizes maybe?
 

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I would suggest you seperate the rear yoke from the driveshaft( dont forget to make a mate mark on both first with a paint pen or small brush ) and bolt it up to the transfer case first, you should be able to get all the bolts in and tightened without having to spin it because you won't be wrestling with the hole driveshaft, just the yoke. then reconnect the driveshaft by sliding it back onto the rear yoke with your mate marks lining up and proceed to bolt the front end up to the diff with the front wheels raised and again you can get at all the bolts without having to spin the front wheels. Just turn them enough to get the bolt holes to line up. :)
 

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While you have the driveshaft apart you may be able to answer a long standing question as to whether or not the driveshaft is splined in such a way as to only allow one way to slide the 2 pieces together. Our front shaft at least, has the 2 uni's slightly off from each other but am curious if this location is mechanically determined. Thanks if you post the info. Good luck with the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did not pull it apart unfortunately, but I did run into an issue. The studs on the transfer case side seem to be bent. Not HORRIBLY but to the point that I had difficulty getting the rear flange on them and the nuts I couldn't get the special thin walled socket on and had to use an open ended spanner - and even then - it BARELY fit and I couldn't get them as tight as I would've liked. To this end, I still have a slight vibration at speed and I think this is the cause. Any idea how to fix those other than heating them and trying to bend them back into place? It seems that 2 of them had already broken loose and were more like bolts - but the other two were snug in place - and seemed to be the ones that were warped. HELP?!
 

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when I replaced my cuppling thay were bolts not studs that maybe the problam the bolts have been puled out of shape hence sticking in the hole and nocking it out of balance
Tony
 

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jnance50 said:
That had been my suspicion. Any idea how to change those out?
You will need to remove the drive flange - there is one large nut in the center of it.

As to the vibration one thing to consider is the front diff. Whilst there was no front prop it was not being driven, but when it is being driven if there is play in the bearings this will allow movement and vibration. Also if there is play in the output shaft bearing at the transfer box this could also allow movement of the prop.
 

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Just get a pair of vice grips and grab the head of the bolts and use a hand held grinder with a cutting blade to cut the bent bolts off as close to the flang as possible and replace them with bolts of the exact same size by installing them from the front, Personally I would do all four so they are all new and exactly the same and you should have no balance problems. Tip, put a flat washer on the bolt on the side you're cutting off to protect the trans case flange surface. And be sure to use the locking nuts with the plastic ring insert so they never come off by themselve's. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For whatever reason - it never crossed my mind to just put the bolts in backwards! I was so obsessed with keeping the car EXACTLY as it was new. but I suppose you're right - there could be no real downside to just installing them backwards and would make things in the future much easier. I think I'm off to buy some new bolts and yank out the old angle grinder (I'm a pro with one of these - my last vehicle was a jeep `) )
 

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AMcK said:
As to the vibration one thing to consider is the front diff. Whilst there was no front prop it was not being driven, but when it is being driven if there is play in the bearings this will allow movement and vibration.

Not being driven...yes. But it's still spinning in there.
 

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kmagnuss said:
AMcK said:
As to the vibration one thing to consider is the front diff. Whilst there was no front prop it was not being driven, but when it is being driven if there is play in the bearings this will allow movement and vibration.

Not being driven...yes. But it's still spinning in there.
Yes, sorry I realise that, but what I was eluding to (rather poorly) was what could happen if there is any play in the bearing on the input shaft. With a good bearing there would be no sideways play and the input flange and it would rotate around it's center as would the prop when attached. With play in the bearing it could allow sideways play. Without a prop attached there is little mass in the flange and would not cause vibration, but with the prop attached this could then rotate off center and cause vibration.

I had this on our RR. The vibration was enough to cause the passenger seat to vibrate. Checking through stuff the front diff was suspect with a lot of play evident at the front drive flange and reduced vibration when driven with front prop removed. After replacement the vibration reduced considerably. Still working through the vibration that is still there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's large - but I'm not sure of the size. But let me ask - what's your reasoning for not cutting off the bolts and installing the new ones backwards? This is the method I'm going to be doing shortly - I'm just wondering if there is a reason you're going that direction that I should be considering.
 

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jnance50 said:
It's large - but I'm not sure of the size. But let me ask - what's your reasoning for not cutting off the bolts and installing the new ones backwards? This is the method I'm going to be doing shortly - I'm just wondering if there is a reason you're going that direction that I should be considering.
the reason i ask is because my xfer case rear output shaft seal is leaking so i need to change that seal. drop the shaft, pull the flange and pop in a new seal. but i need a big socket to pull the flange and thus, my question.

[insert "looks like you blew a seal" joke here]
 
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