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Discussion Starter #1
New EAS Problem leak from the compressor box. I had to drive home on my bump stops on L.A.'s wonderful highways. I probably looked like a lowrider with cuts springs bouncing up and down none stop for a 1 1/2 drive home (10 miles). Anyways, I drove over a huge bump / dip in the road that caused my Rover to almost hop up and down.

I now have a new problem air is leaking rapidly from the air hose closest to the front of the truck on the side of the compressor box. I think the rough bouncing may have caused trauma to the hose connections. I tried disconnecting the hoses and putting it back in but the air continues to come out and hisses like a mad snake. Can someone coach me and help me to understand the proper name for this hose that is closest to the front of the truck?

How do I repair this connection? Please help!

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jsmooth where can I get one of those beautiful hoses? Do I just connect it to the tip of the current hose and connect the new hose to the compressor box?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a picture for reference. The hose on the far right of the picture with the arrow inserted is where I am getting a rush of air constantly coming out when the truck is turned on. What is the name of this hose?

 

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Ohh, the picture I posted was of the compressor to valve block hose. You are confusing people by calling your valve block housing the "compressor box." That last hose may just need to be pushed back in. They have a fitting with 2 o-rings on each of those hose entry points. The hose just presses into it creating a seal. Try pushing it in with a pair of pliers and see if that helps. If not, then the o-rings are not sealing and will need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
okay, I tried to push the line in with pliers and no love. tried the leak test with some soapy water and it was creating huge bubbles fast, not hissing as loud as before but makes bubbles fast.

so now I need to order this, right?

Valve Block Rebuild Oring Kit, '93-'02 Range Rover Air Suspension
http://www.rover-renovations.com/Air-Su ... 0030-k.htm
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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You should order the rebuild kit and do the deed. It is easy enough to do and will make the rest of the system a lot more reliable.
For now, try to remove the airline and snip 1/4" of the end off and then try to reseal it temporarily.
I would also ask Dennis about his manual fill system, I would not be without it. It allows you to fill the airbags one at a time from any airline to get it back up in the air. Before I got it, too had to drive (90 miles of US highways) on the bump stops, not fun!


Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
after looking at the #6 air connection, there does not seem to be a visible rubber o-ring....just the collet and the metal from the valve block. is there any way that the o-ring was not present and still continue to work up until this point....?

by the way #'s 1, 2, 3 & 4 are for the individual air springs. what are the # 5 & 6 air connections?

i placed an order for the manual fill system but curious what # 5 & 6 are.
 

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Hi,

Get a smallish plastic coated crochet hook to extract the old o rings. Do it slowly and methodically!

Also, a proper pipe cutter is a good idea to trim the pipes if they are scored where they seal with the o rings as it cuts the pipe square without any burrs.

Re the pipe port numbers - search for "EAS its a map" thread the info is all there.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay so the #6 connection is for the air tank. Now can I take out the o-rings from #6 without taking apart the EAS box and leaving it intact?

The collet is very loose even when pushed in. Could the collet be broken, is this something that breaks and needs to be replaced?

I have new air bags now but now I have a new problem.... :doh:

I am still not sure where the o-rings are in the #6 slot...after taking the hose out I don't see any o-rings...help?
 

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If the pipe was a tight fit and you had to push the collet inwards, then there must be a pair of o rings in there ....

Dennis is the expert on this, but have another look.

If you need to remove the EAS box completely to get a better look, it only takes a few minutes --

* Cruise control unit 2 screws
* extract all air pipes
* unplug electrical connector
* four bolts to wheel arch holding the box.

Then you can put it on a bench and get at it properly.

I think that's it - this is fully described in a thread on this site or Dennis'.
 
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