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It seems amazing to me that your mechanic is expecting you to get the vehicle started. If you can't find a competent mechanic, can you rent a storage unit or garage to keep the Rover in until you can look at it? This thing is 20+ years old, there are bound to be things that need sorting. I second installing a new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CPS can fail completely or intermittently and not throw any fault codes.
 

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Wait... no compressor, how does that even work? He makes the "P38 specialist" who sold me mine sound almost competent. Is there a serpentine belt ? Must be a shortened one, no idea if it has the right tension on it - is your steering very heavy?. So he just left you two dangly aluminium pipes for the air con?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
No he left the original AC compressor installed. It just wont engage or do anything if turned on. I suspect that he pulled the fuse to ensure that it would not go one in case I tried.

Honestly, he is one of the biggest scum bags I have ever come across. I mean to ship a car to Hawaii not mention anything at all is wrong with it. In fact he even said the week before that he was adding Freon and changing the AC clutch out. Come a week after it has been shipped he writes me saying, We thought it would be better to make the deadline to ship rather than keep the car and get the AC going. I went bananas and told him off. He has not replied since then. So I called the credit card I charged his payment on and stopped payment. I emailed him from the side of the road where the car overheated, explaining the situation. His reply was that he would allow Karma to take care of me.

In all truth I am livid over it. All I wanted was a decent ride to take to work and fiddle with on the weekends and this is the monster I end up with.

It still is not starting and I insist that it is the battery. Right now the Interstate that is in it has a CCA of 700. I think I need more like 950 to get this turned over. I mean it feels like its right at the edge of turning and then just won't.

I had a separate mechanic scheduled to come to the car today. He phoned at the last minute and said he cant do it because the car doesnt start. These people, I just dont understand them. How do they work, feed themselves? It is like they dont want to work and just want everything to be easy. Another shop I called said, Yeah Man we work on those just bring it over and we will look at it. I explained that I needed to tow it to them and he asked that I dont do that because he wont be able to fix it.

I am afraid that I am hurdling towards a donation if nothing changes. Not much help over on the Pub. Yes they are like a pack of wolves granting a series of random explanations and not really alot of help.
 

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If by a pack of wolves you mean by lots of suggestions, then you're right but you aren't getting any more help here either. We aren't psychic, you have it in front of you, we don't. From your video, you do not have a sync problem, there is nothing wrong with the battery, it just isn't firing, although you now say that it has run? To me that points to one of two things. Crank Position Sensor that can fail but it the connection to it has got water in it somehow, it needs unplugging, squirting with contact cleaner and plugging back in or, the fuel pump. You've been told, check for fuel pressure, have you done that?
 

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David - that's a pretty dumb thing to say, given that most of the people are helping you here are the people who are (trying) to help you there. I gave you a list of (basic) things to check 48-72 hours ago, and if you can't depress a schrader valve to check if you have fuel pressure then I'm not wasting my time. Yes, you will get random suggestions (actually educated guesses, everyone here has been in your situation more than once) until such time as you can give us feedback to help us narrow things down. It's you who has insisted on dragging EAS, AC and the cooling system into the discussion, hence you get more noise in your responses. The battery thing is a red herring, it just needs to be topped up for now, is all - and yes I've made all the same mistakes you are now making, other than slagging off the RR community, of course
 

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Just watched your video, that sounds like no fuel, are you 100% it has fuel,, slightly low, a slope and these won’t start, I pulled up to run in to get my wallet to get fuel, turned off, I’m back 15 secs later to no start,,
 

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Four turns of the lock to the unlock or lock position?
Does the vehicle do anything or signal that it will allow the immobilizer to work?
Are there fuses that need to be installed, the fuse boxes are oddly empty.
I have already disputed all the charges for us paying for the car. The shipping company is not going to give us any
Money back for sure. The car drove when I first picked it up from them 11 days ago. Now it’s a matter of it overheating. The radiator will have to be first replaced and then the alternator.
Sadly the shop it is at now won’t touch the car until it is starting. They don’t want to do any work on it until I resolve the car not starting, in fact they want me to tow it away today or tomorrow. So I have little time to sort out why the battery replacement has messed things up.
You stopped payment for a car that worked fine for 11 days? I'm sorry that you are having issues with the car.....but you are a thief unless you return the car.
 

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He's probably just getting a bit of payback to a dealer. I've been importing cars from the US for the last 9 years and have come to the conclusion that most are either outright liars or think that if they are exporting a car it is going to be so difficult for the buyer to seek any sort of recompense that they can send any old pile of rubbish out of the country. When the cars arrive in their containers, they are put into a bonded warehouse until all duties are paid and then, and only then, is it cleared for collection and you get to see exactly what you have bought. One guy bought a Ferrari F355, paid for it by bank transfer, paid the shipping costs and duty only to find he'd bought a Toyota MR2 with a body kit.......
 

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He's probably just getting a bit of payback to a dealer. I've been importing cars from the US for the last 9 years and have come to the conclusion that most are either outright liars or think that if they are exporting a car it is going to be so difficult for the buyer to seek any sort of recompense that they can send any old pile of rubbish out of the country. When the cars arrive in their containers, they are put into a bonded warehouse until all duties are paid and then, and only then, is it cleared for collection and you get to see exactly what you have bought. One guy bought a Ferrari F355, paid for it by bank transfer, paid the shipping costs and duty only to find he'd bought a Toyota MR2 with a body kit.......
I understand that, and that is why it is the buyer's job to ensure that they aren't buying a 6 thousand pound paperweight. Especially when it comes to something as important as transportation that will be used daily for the foreseeable future.

Honestly, he bought a 20-year-old Land Rover with over 200k miles, sight unseen, what did he really expect was going to happen? He could have done many things to prevent the predicament that he is now in. He did not know what he was doing, he now has buyer's remorse, but that is not an excuse to not pay for an item that he received. Be an adult, accept responsibility for screwing up and move on.

The fact of the matter is, he received the item and he did not pay for it, that is theft. It is not the same as your MR2 Ferrari example because that seller perpetrated fraud.
 

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Kultur, unless you are in fact Union Jack 4x4 then you have no idea about how much the buyer has/ hasn't paid so far, what the terms of the transaction were or what statements were made by UJ4x4. It doesn't seem unreasonable for the buyer to apply what little leverage he has at this stage , assuming that there's a genuine claim on the seller, and then they eventually come to some agreement.
 

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Kultur, unless you are in fact Union Jack 4x4 then you have no idea about how much the buyer has/ hasn't paid so far, what the terms of the transaction were or what statements were made by UJ4x4. It doesn't seem unreasonable for the buyer to apply what little leverage he has at this stage , assuming that there's a genuine claim on the seller, and then they eventually come to some agreement.
That is absolutely true, we only have one side of the story from a guy whose story changes with every post. But, going by his posts, he says multiple times that he is "disputing" and "canceling" the card of which payment was made to Union Jack.

Being that we only have one side of the story we also don't know how forthright Union Jack was on this transaction or how much the buyer ignored pertinent facts or didn't care because he simple just had to have the vehicle.

So, if he is canceling just a portion of the payment, fine, then I am wrong. But if he is canceling the entire payment that is theft.

When you buy something second hand, it is YOUR responsibility to ensure that you are getting exactly what you pay for because they are plenty of deceitful sellers out there. Could Union Jack be a deceitful, lying scumbag who sold goods that he knew was bad, absolutely, but its not his fault some idiot didn't do his due diligence when buying his crappy goods, he fulfilled his portion of the deal, which is the vehicle.

At the end of the day he has the vehicle, which eventually will be fixed, what does Union Jack have? Nothing. By the way, key point in all this mess is that the truck worked fine when he picked it up, how could Union Jack have known it would overheat 11 days later?
 

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Take off drivers door panel.
Disconnect door latch plug.
On female or upper side, take a paper clip, fold in half, poke ends into red/blue and red/green.
Ground to metal on door with key on.
Doors will unlock, alarm will get out of superlock.
Change out microswitches in door lock assy.
Worked for me today

Happy motoring
 

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Do we think this car got scrapped in the end?
 
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