RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1998 P38 4.6L
It was bought from Union Jack 4x4 in California and then shipped sight unseen to Honolulu where I picked it up a couple of weeks ago.
Long story made short, the vehicle sat for about 10 days. The battery was completely flat. It was replaced this morning.
After replacing the battery, I am getting dash messages that the windows and sunroof are not set.
The car tries to start but won’t turn over.
I do not have an EKA code but tried the generic 1515 thinking that it was the immobilizer.
Can anyone walk me through step by step how to get the car to start? Please... I’m begging now as the next steps are to call and donate the car since my wife is furious with me bout this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
When you replaced the battery, did the dash come up with KEYCODE LOCKOUT, whan you try to start it does it say ENGINE IMMOBILISED, PRESS REMOTE OR ENTER CODE or just press remote? if it is asking for the code then an EKA is programmed, if not, then, like most NAS cars, it isn't. If no EKA programmed, then as far as I know all you need do is the 4 turns to lock to get it into EKA accept mode and it should unlock all the doors and then start. Windows and sunroof not set messages are normal after battery replacement, they just need setting

The shipper should have disconnected the battery so they have caused the problem, maybe speak to the supplier, you haven't got what you bought. You bought a car, not a 2 tonne paperweight.
 

·
FOUNDING MEMBER
Joined
·
483 Posts
Before going further make sure ‘P’ is selected on the transmission before starting the engine. It may be this simple.

If the engine still won’t turn over and the fob buttons do not lock/unlock the doors then the fob may need a simple re-sync. There appear to be different methods depending on the age of the vehicle. Try each of the following in turn:

1. Insert key into driver door lock. Press the lock button on the fob and then turn the key to lock the door. Press the unlock button on the fob and then turn the key to unlock the door. Insert the key into the ignition barrel and start the engine.

2. If the door is unlocked - Insert the key into the driver door lock. Press the lock button and whilst continuing to press the lock button turn the key to the lock position for between 3 and 10 seconds. Return key to central position and remove from the lock before releasing the lock button. Reverse this procedure if the door is already locked - press unlock and twist key to unlock position etc. Insert the key into the ignition and start the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
get it into EKA
The only messages that come up on the dash panel are that the windows not set and sunroof not set.

The fob does lock an unlock the doors and the key does lock and unlock the doors.

The alarm did go off without any audible (just lights flashing) at one point when I was trying to reset using the generic EKA but there was not notice of the need for it just me freaking out.

The vehicle is in P and the little dull red light is dimly lit next to the shifter, signaling the BECM is working.

Each time we get out of the car we pull the battery negative off and lock the car by hand.

I do not have access to a LR specific fault code reade, Nanocom or anything like that. I have been searching for other Land Rover owners here in Hawaii but come up empty.

Will try again after work today. Any help would really be appreciated?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Four turns of the lock to the unlock or lock position?
Does the vehicle do anything or signal that it will allow the immobilizer to work?
Are there fuses that need to be installed, the fuse boxes are oddly empty.
I have already disputed all the charges for us paying for the car. The shipping company is not going to give us any
Money back for sure. The car drove when I first picked it up from them 11 days ago. Now it’s a matter of it overheating. The radiator will have to be first replaced and then the alternator.
Sadly the shop it is at now won’t touch the car until it is starting. They don’t want to do any work on it until I resolve the car not starting, in fact they want me to tow it away today or tomorrow. So I have little time to sort out why the battery replacement has messed things up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
They're right. Get it out of the shop and back to yours. Lots of that stuff could be unnecessary. Bolt seems to flit in and out of Hawaii. When you say the vehicle is in P. Do you mean the gear selector? What does it say on the dash for gear selected - also P? Also try to start in Neutral. When you say it " tries to start, but doesn't turn over" in what way does it try?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I will try to tow it back to my Condo but I don’t know how it would get into the garage still I can try.

The gear selector is in P and P shows up on the dash. I will try to start in Neutral a little later today

The shop says that they started the car after fitting a new battery. The car ran for about 20 seconds and then died on its own. The battery installed is an Interstate MT-34. The specs says it has cold cranking amps of 700 and not the 900 I have read it recommended. I wonder if that is one or part of the issue.

Separately when II turn the key, the engine cranks like it is trying to start, but it just does not get to the point of starting. Turn the key again and it cranks and cranks but doesn’t start. Aside from the window and sunroof not set messages there are no other indication lights on the dash. I don’t know how else to explain the cranking. I will try to take a video and upload a link later today.

Otherwise I am at a total loss. I don’t know who Bolt is, but if he is in Honolulu I would love to meet him. Perhaps he has the magic touch I am missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I was putting in an order for a SyncMate but from the sounds of it, the North American P38 usually does not have an immobilizer option and the SyncMate would be a waste of money. Can anyone confirm what I am saying is true? Should I get this thing and maybe that solves the issue of the not starting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I think you may be getting a few things confused. The issue the SyncMate solves is the engine's ECU and the BECM both need the same immobilization code for the vehicle to start. The 1995 to 1998's seem to have had an issue of one of the devices forgetting the code. The Synchmate will learn the code from one computer and ensure it is in the other computer so the engine will start. All P38's this immobilizer system.

There is a second immobilizer system that needed the Fob to be pressed before the engine could start. Imagine if the car were left unlocked in your driveway while you were also outside. With this system you could not just simply get in and put the key in the ignition and start the engine but rather you would have to use the fob so the computer knew the proper person was starting the engine. This is called passive immobilization. This feature was an additional feature to prevent theft. This feature was not turned on for the North American P38's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
From reading your above post I don't think you have a synch issue and the Synchmate would be a waste of money. May be the starter or check the batter and have it charged up again. There is a good sticky forum that speaks to the battery and the P38 needing a strong healthy one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
From looking at your video, you don't have an issue with the BeCM or the engine ECU or any synch issues. Sounds like. the starter is getting electricity and working, the engine is just not turning over.

As for your EAS question in the video. If your P38 suspension is on coil springs the common thing mechanics did when they converted from Air to spring coils would just replace the springs and take out the relay for the EAS system in the engine bay fuse box. This will put the computer into EAS manual mode which is what was showing on your instrument panel. This is normal. Mine shows this every time I start it and it's fine.

Atlantic British sells as part of their coil springs conversion kit an electronic device that hooks up the the BeCM so this message does not come on. But I would rather not mess with the BeCM and live with that EAS Manual display for a few seconds each time I start up the P38 vs. a potential issue with the BeCM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
What is the CPS? And where do I find it / replace it?

it does not seem to me that there are any unusual things happening when I try to start. It is just not enough power to get the car to start. So overnight I wait and first thing the car starts but then dies and won’t restart. Could this be the alternator?
 

·
FOUNDING MEMBER
Joined
·
483 Posts
CPS = Crank Position Sensor. Left hand side of the flywheel housing under a heat shield although on a ‘98 North American vehicle it should illuminate the MIL lamp if it is not working correctly with fault code P0335 or P0336.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Your alternator could be the best (or worst) in the world, but if your engine's not turning it doesn't mean a thing. For now you need the vehicle recovered to somewhere you can charge it/ keep it charged
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I’m afraid that I may be running out of time.
the vehicle is parked on the street in front of the auto repair garage that won’t work on the car until it starts.
I ordered the parts that i did because:
1- when it overheated coolant was coming out of the front of the car, not the side with the tank. This to me means that the radiator is cracked or one of the plastic tanks on the top and bottom may be cracked.
2- i orders the hoses and thermostat because the very first shop I took it to wanted to replace the radiator, hoses and thermostat at one time.
3- the alternator because during my many recovery’s on the side of the road more than one mechanic commented on the state of the existing alternator. That it looks old and worn out. The copper inside is black and corroded.
4- when the jack ass who sold me the car shipped the car he sent it without an AC compressor. After it was ok the boat to Honolulu he messaged me telling me that he did not have time to install the AC Compressor and he was mailing one to me. So I have this thing laying round. It is Hawaii and it does get hot sometimes. So why not put it back in.

The battery that was in the car was a AAA battery from 2018. It was totally 100% flat. Nothing at all, not even a dim glow. So I asked the current garage to change the battery to get it to start. And they did but they put in a battery that is only 700 CCA. I don’t believe that this is enough. Aside from the fact that the current battery is silly small for the compartment it sits in, I read all over the place that I need at leave 900 CCA and 1050 or 1100 would be better. The garage it is at now keeps telling me that none of that matters since they put a jump pack on it and the pack has 1000 CCA but the car still won’t start. There are not warnings inside the vehicle and there is no indication of any issues.

Today I will check all the fuses and relays. I will also check the fuel pump inside the tank. The mechanic is checking for spark and fiuel at the engine.

you guys have to realize that Hawaii is not a place for European cars. It is for Japanese or American but European makes do not have the same dealerships or local mechanics. Right now there is only one tech at Land Rover Honolulu that works on older LRs. And he works part time 3 days a week. If I take it back to them even by towing it, they will take about a month or two to get to even see the car and assess the issues. They will not use outside parts at all. In fact I can’t even speak to the mechanic at all. Just the service people and they are not very nice indeed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I forgot to mention, we live in a Condo Tower. There is no place for me to take the car to and have it charged while we sort out the issues. They simply would not get the car into the garage here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Stop pulling the battery lead, all your doing is putting the car back into leave for 30 minute mode before you can attempt to start, might sound stupid, have you tried starting with your foot on the brake, I know some countries have that feature.. could be brake switch stopping it from cranking if so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Chris, I have stopped pulling the neg battery lead. Thank you for confirming.

I have tried to start in P both at the stick and P showing on the dash. With my foot on the break and without.
I have also tried to start in Neutral, with break and without.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top