I'd suspect you are getting inteference somewhere and the noise is being generated by the speaker, mounted on the rear of the instrument cluster. I can't remember if the speaker has an easily detachable plug or if if it would involve cutting a wire going to it, but I'd isolate the speaker somehow and test again.
New angle on mysterious battery drain
While bodging in that VW cup holder into the dash beside the door of my Rangie I noticed a constant noise coming from under the dash. Like a fan, clock or a computer running. I initially thought it was the actually clock but no. A little more investigating confirmed it was coming from the instrument cluster.
Pulled the multiplug on the front of clocks, noise gone. Plugged it back in again noise back :think:
What moving parts are in the instrument cluster with no key in the ignition and how much power does it draw?
Pulled the multiplug on the front of clocks, noise gone. Plugged it back in again noise back :think:
What moving parts are in the instrument cluster with no key in the ignition and how much power does it draw?
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Ohh, that sounds plausible :thumb:
Thanks Paul, I'd have been a while coming up with that myself :roll:
Any idea what knid of draw of power that could take?
Thanks Paul, I'd have been a while coming up with that myself :roll:
Any idea what knid of draw of power that could take?
Could it be the air temp/humidity sensor for the HEVAC????
I have noticed with mine that there is a slight humming noise coming from the clock, and dissappears when unplugged. Mine os only on with the accessories though.
Stu
I have noticed with mine that there is a slight humming noise coming from the clock, and dissappears when unplugged. Mine os only on with the accessories though.
Stu
i know the exact noise you are talking about... I was going to try to investigate it this week becuase i am thinking that may be cuaseing my battery to drain as well.
My p38 was dieing after a few days but i recently cleaned all the grounds and put in a yellow top deep cycle battery and im going on 3 weeks with no noticeable drop. Although i am not happy with the voltage coming from my alternator. It is only 14.03 at the alt. shouldn't it be 14.5ish?
My p38 was dieing after a few days but i recently cleaned all the grounds and put in a yellow top deep cycle battery and im going on 3 weeks with no noticeable drop. Although i am not happy with the voltage coming from my alternator. It is only 14.03 at the alt. shouldn't it be 14.5ish?
No, it was definitely the instrument pack. I have a mechanics stethescope and can isolate noises pretty exactly. I'll pin point it when I take out the cluster.81stubee said:Could it be the air temp/humidity sensor for the HEVAC????
I have noticed with mine that there is a slight humming noise coming from the clock, and dissappears when unplugged. Mine os only on with the accessories though.
Stu
i always thought the noise was the compressor for the EAS, but ive now converted to coils and it still makes the noise. Now i need to look into it. Let us know what you find.
It can be unplugged. Here's a pic I took earlier:paul.adshead said:I'd suspect you are getting inteference somewhere and the noise is being generated by the speaker, mounted on the rear of the instrument cluster. I can't remember if the speaker has an easily detachable plug or if if it would involve cutting a wire going to it, but I'd isolate the speaker somehow and test again.
Any chance yours is the ABS pump?bjohnston115 said:i always thought the noise was the compressor for the EAS, but ive now converted to coils and it still makes the noise. Now i need to look into it. Let us know what you find.
Or else whoever did the coil conversion left the EAS Compressor plugged in :lol:
Stu's earlier comment would be my guess. That HeVAC fan/sensor has been a problem with the early L322's causing battery drain. Has anyone been playing about with the electronics back there to keep it running?bjohnston115 said:i know the exact noise you are talking about... I was going to try to investigate it this week becuase i am thinking that may be cuaseing my battery to drain as well.
My p38 was dieing after a few days but i recently cleaned all the grounds and put in a yellow top deep cycle battery and im going on 3 weeks with no noticeable drop. Although i am not happy with the voltage coming from my alternator. It is only 14.03 at the alt. shouldn't it be 14.5ish?
Your alternator sounds like it is working at that output, but I'd be tempted to check the condition of the battery and see if that is the problem. How old is it, and perhaps more importantly, what brand and spec is it?
SpudH said:Any chance yours is the ABS pump?bjohnston115 said:i always thought the noise was the compressor for the EAS, but ive now converted to coils and it still makes the noise. Now i need to look into it. Let us know what you find.
Or else whoever did the coil conversion left the EAS Compressor plugged in :lol:
Compressor def is unhooked... I retorfitted it and am using the air system to air up my tires when i leave the sand.
The noise i am reffering to is usually heard right when i start the car and right after i shut the engine down.
Checked out my noise last night, its not the speaker but its definitely the clocks. The noise stops when I tilt the clocks sideways. I know that sounds mad but it does. I had to reoute the cable to get the noise to stay on in a position i could examine it. It sounds exactly like a clock. When I put my stethescope on any part of the circuit board or the bulb holders or screws I can get a clear sound so there is certainly something moving in there whether its vibrating or spinning I don't know. I'm afraid to do too much poking in case I short out some part of the board.
Anyone with any further clues?
Anyone with any further clues?
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OK, i found it but I don't know what it means :doh:
It's the rev counter needle sitting on its rest. I took the glass front off to delve deeper and as soon as you move the needle off the rest, noise gone. this also explains why the noise stopped in different positions.
Remember this is with no key in the ignition so why is the rev counter receiving power at all? I don't know enough about the instruments but I assume the rev counter is a moving coil. For it to vibrate it must be getting power.
I'm goin to try putting a little buffer around the needle stop to see if that lifts the needle enough ti stop it but I'm still wondering if it will still be drawing power.
There was someone on here a few months ago who LED'd his instrument pack, anyone know him, he should know a bit about this?
It's the rev counter needle sitting on its rest. I took the glass front off to delve deeper and as soon as you move the needle off the rest, noise gone. this also explains why the noise stopped in different positions.
Remember this is with no key in the ignition so why is the rev counter receiving power at all? I don't know enough about the instruments but I assume the rev counter is a moving coil. For it to vibrate it must be getting power.
I'm goin to try putting a little buffer around the needle stop to see if that lifts the needle enough ti stop it but I'm still wondering if it will still be drawing power.
There was someone on here a few months ago who LED'd his instrument pack, anyone know him, he should know a bit about this?
Rev counter is fed from a signal coming from the alternator (of all places). How are your electrics doing - any issues? Needed any jump starts recently? You may have a faulty alternator.
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