[desertboy]

Did some research and found the drag link @ Island 4 X 4 for 39.99 and the Steering Damper for 17.99 UK Pounds. I bought the Track rod from them a year ago and it seems to be holding OK after 10k miles. This is very cheap compared to US prices even with shipping. Can anyone comment on the product quality as I have limited experience with these parts? I see Paddock sells the Bilstein Damper for 59.99. Is it worth the extra cost for mainly on-road driving?

 

[shupack]

I'm working with Keith at http://rovertracks.com/products/steering.html for a HD drag-link/tie-rod. They will use RRC balljoints, much cheaper to replace and L/R thread for easy adjustments. Price should be the same as the DII/RRC rods listed, but that's a 1 time cost, not every 5-7 years.

Not sure when they'll be ready, but if you're not in a rush it's a good option.

 

[desertboy]

Thanks Dennis. I'm working on the last piece of the puzzle to eliminate the death wobble. Looks like I need a Steering Damper and noticed the short drag link arm's boot had a split in it. I can go the cheap route and by the short end and change that. Then again the truck has done 143k and the other end probably needs changing too (I've seen the pictures of the chap who had his steering going south when the Drag link Ball joint separated/broke).
I will probably get a complete Drag link assembly and rethink the situation in 7-8 years.

 

[desertboy]

Installed both over the weekend and the 60mph steering vibration is now gone.

 

[dubaidrift]

Hi,

Is the change of drag link and steering damper a DIY job? Are special tools or a lift required?

I also have a slight wobble/vibration in the steering at around 100km/h.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Rich998a]

At that price, you probably have been sent an Armstrong OE spec steering damper and, most likely, a Lemforder OEM link. I've seen the prices offered for the OEM drag links and they are actually very very cheap. In fact I think this is one product where a distributor can make some good money.

If you have had a lesser quality unit sent, then it would have shown signs of wear by now. The OEM type ball joints have a rubber seat inside to reduce vibration. That's nice 'till water and dirt gets in there.

I've had the Bilstein damper on for a while and I'm still not 100% sure about the fit of it. When you put one on, it's not quite a perfect fit. I remember Dan_UK_1984 saying that Rimmer Bros (or one of the big distributors) removing it from stock as it didn't fit properly. Although I've had the Bilstein on for a while, I've wanted to put the Armstrong unit on I've had waiting to try. With the Bilstein, it is always trying to extend itself outwards, whereas the Armstrong is oil filled and is static.

Remember you can get 2 or 3 Armstrong units for the price of a single Bilstein, so the spare(s) can sit in the boot when on safari...

 

[desertboy]

Not sure the make of the parts Rich. I dealt with Island 4X4 and had no problems with their parts so far. They even sent me a very nice water pump ones. The damper had no fitting issues.
To OP about special tools to remove the drag link. I used a ball joint separator for the passenger side and a pickle Fork for the drivers side. Only reason I used the pickle fork because I was too lazy to remove the wheel liner on the drivers side to fit the ball joint separator. As for the steering damper, you only need a socket set and a wrench.

 

[desertboy]

I took the truck in for an alignment and the vibration is back *not as much as before*. The negative Toe after fitting the Drag link must have caused the vibration to go away.
The next stop are the U-Joints and test the VCU.

 

[Rich998a]

What sort of vibration is it? A noise or a wobble. What triggers it - speed and/or terrain?

 

[desertboy]

I may have had two issues. First was the death wobble which was related to the worn drag link and the steering damper. The other is the steering vibration between +60mph and -70mph. First issue is now gone leaving me with the second. I have 19inch wheels (balance 3 months ago) and that may be adding to the issue. The steering is tight and the tires don't have any threading to indicate a VCU issue. However, I haven't had a chance to do the VCU test (rotating the front wheel at least 90degrees/minute with the other wheel locked). The car has 143k Miles and the next relatively cheap item to replace are the U-Joints.