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TripleE said:
gooseyloosey said:
P.S. I would get the two sensors...just in case.
Livin' on the edge...I didn't order them. :pray:
3E, what Hans Rey is to mtn biking...


Then make sure the floor is clean and clear under the brake when you pull the sensor--there's a very small copper clip shaped like a horseshoe that tends to stay behind or fall out. If it falls out easily, you'll need to rebend it a bit tighter with your fingers to get it to stay on when putting the sensor back in.
 

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3E - you can turn your rotors. I did mine in the 40k+ range. Its a composite rotor, LR and most high end car dealers prefer to have a new one put on, rather than the liability of having it turned. You can take it to a local shop and have it done.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
3E, what Hans Rey is to mtn biking...
Then make sure the floor is clean and clear under the brake when you pull the sensor--there's a very small copper clip shaped like a horseshoe that tends to stay behind or fall out. If it falls out easily, you'll need to rebend it a bit tighter with your fingers to get it to stay on when putting the sensor back in.
:lol: Cool, kind of similar scenario on the 325i I think, and I just did those, so hopefully I can Hans Rey it.

Frisco_TX_RRS said:
3E - you can turn your rotors. I did mine in the 40k+ range. Its a composite rotor, LR and most high end car dealers prefer to have a new one put on, rather than the liability of having it turned. You can take it to a local shop and have it done.
Good to know, thanks Frisco.
 

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I did front pads a few weeks ago. Very simple to do on an HSE. But I broke the wear sensor trying to remove it. The light had been on for a few weeks and I ordered a new sensor.
Rather than fight to install it, I took a resistance measurement of the new sensor which showed an almost zero ohm. I don't know if there's anything else to the impedance(inductive or capacitive), but is the sensor just basically a wire that breaks when it wears down?? I decided to just solder the ends together on the existing sensor. The light went out and things seem normal. Does that seem right??

I check my brakes on a regular basis, so I'm not worried about the sensor going off.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
Mine looks a bit different than yours goose:


And I dropped the little sensor clip you warned me about (even after thinking about it); where the f is it?


Oh, way over behind my feet...


Had a little left:


So if you've never played with the sensor on the Sport, it's a little tricky as said before. Once I got it in the first time, I really couldn't tell it was in. :wink: So I took it back out to double check. When I put it back in...
 

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Nice 3E!

Now the bottle in the middle wouldn'ta had anything to do with the other things, would it?
 

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What?! That bottle was my strengthening serum - just like your liquid wrench! :lol: Really, thanks for your DIY, it was so helpful to know the pitfalls before hand. :thumb:

In case you didn't notice, that is my "finger" in the last pic. :shhh:
 

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Since I Hans Rey'd (but crashed) the front brake sensor and I didn't see goose's pics after the plastic surgery on his arm, I thought I owed it.

Where the sensor enters the liner:


I took out 2 of the plastic grommet thingys (pleasantly surprised at how they come out compared to other makes); then wedged something in to hold the liner about where my hand is so I could have both hands free:


What it looks like from the front of the wheel well looking back:


Close up; top is the sensor wire that is replaced, bottom is the connector that stays:


My new wire came with a different mount that holds only the sensor wire so I took it off (screw/mount partially slid out towards the bottom):


My old mount holds additional wires, so I slid the old sensor out of the mount (it has notches, but check out how the new one works first, it's the same, just takes some force):


Then just slide the new wire onto the old mount.
 

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Why do the rotors need to be replaced so frequently? I thought they're supposed to have a longer lifespan than the pads, but it seems like most recommend replacing both at the same time :?:
 

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Nice pics showing how that's done 3E! :thumb:

Hey Drevs, some of us can't solder as nice as you, especially after a few Blue Moons, or as in my case, inhaling brake cleaner.

opotamus said:
Why do the rotors need to be replaced so frequently? I thought they're supposed to have a longer lifespan than the pads, but it seems like most recommend replacing both at the same time :?:
They do, you probably can get two pads worth out of the front rotors and definitely two out of the back. Its a heavy car though and if the rotors get to thin, I think they are prone to warping.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
Nice pics showing how that's done 3E!
Thanks, I have small hands.


gooseyloosey said:
Hey Drevs, some of us can't solder as nice as you, especially after a few Blue Moons, or as in my case, inhaling brake cleaner.
Yeah, and plus, the S/C front sensor is totally different! ;)
 

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Great info! Thanks so much for the detailed write-up.

Just curious, are there any different procedures I need to do for S/C model with Brembos?

Also, do you raise the vehicle first using hydraulic ride height control before jacking up the car?

Thanks!
 

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sbkim said:
Great info! Thanks so much for the detailed write-up.

Just curious, are there any different procedures I need to do for S/C model with Brembos?

Also, do you raise the vehicle first using hydraulic ride height control before jacking up the car?

Thanks!
No, don't raise it. Just lock it out on the center console in normal height.
 

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Drevs said:
Well ****, you need me to do a tutorial on that too?? ;)
3E does like pictures!

Speaking of which.

3E, those pictures you took show the underbody of the car as gray/silver, while your car is black. I'm just curious, are the underbodies on all colors coated with some special gray primer or is that somebody else's car? Mine's gray too but so is my truck, and I never noticed if it was the same gray. :think:
 

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gooseyloosey said:
No, don't raise it. Just lock it out on the center console in normal height.
Hey goose, I read that in your DIY, but I didn't do it since I always raise to off-road when I'm doing other stuff. Is there a reason we're not supposed to when doing the brakes? :pray:

gooseyloosey said:
3E does like pictures!
Noods.

gooseyloosey said:
Speaking of which.

3E, those pictures you took show the underbody of the car as gray/silver, while your car is black. I'm just curious, are the underbodies on all colors coated with some special gray primer or is that somebody else's car? Mine's gray too but so is my truck, and I never noticed if it was the same gray. :think:
That is my rig, funny I noticed it too, but I didn't seem to think as much of it to mention it here. Thanks for pointing it out...perhaps someone has an answer.
 

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TripleE said:
gooseyloosey said:
No, don't raise it. Just lock it out on the center console in normal height.
Hey goose, I read that in your DIY, but I didn't do it since I always raise to off-road when I'm doing other stuff. Is there a reason we're not supposed to when doing the brakes? :pray:
No harm I think, I used the LR supplied jack and I don't think it would extend far enough in off-road mode, or if it did it would be very extended.

I would not want to work around/underneath without the suspension locked out.
 

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sbkim said:
Just curious, are there any different procedures I need to do for S/C model with Brembos?
Not really... it's quite straightforward if you're just doing the pads. It was nearly an identical procedure to replacing the brake pads on my bikes, which have, perhaps not coincidentally, British disc brakes.

How do you lock out the suspension in normal height? Haven't heard that trick before.
 
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