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And, should anyone have second thoughts about replacing the rear discs... :D

Rear Disc thickness:
New: 20.0 mm (0.78 in)
Service limit: 17.0 mm (0.67 in)
Maximum disc run-out - disc installed: 0.09 mm (0.003 in)

Front Disc thickness (both Brembo and non-Brembo brakes):
New: 30.0 mm (1.18 in)
Service limit: 27.0 mm (1.063 in)
Maximum disc run-out - disc installed: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
 

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Umbertob;
In the Parking brake adjustment procedure, it talks about "Using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system, drive the parking brake to the 'mounting position'. "
Can this be done without the diagnostic system?
This looks like the normal , "with brake off adjust to get a good drag and then back off the star wheel 8 clicks".
Does anyone do this without the diagnostic system?
Or is this like most front heavy vehicle where the rear disks never wear to minimum even after 150000 miles?
 

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Here is goosey's step-by-step instructions for MY2006-2009 front pads and discs replacement, with detailed photos (pdf is relatively large, so I was asked to upload it.) Thanks Mike, great work that will make a lot of people's life easier. :clap: Rear brakes to follow soon.
 

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TripleE said:
You are the man goose! Can't wait to takle the bolts from hell. :lol: Great pic of the dog too. :thumb:
3E, let us know how it goes! I'm writing up the rears too--will have that up next week. Though on the rears I ended up changing only the pads and not the discs for two reasons (although I wanted to pull the disc off to see how it would be done for the next time, so I went through all the steps ahead of time).

1. They were barely worn. Unlike the fronts they lost a total of just under 1mm, well under the 3mm spec. I'll change them at 60K.
2. Putting them into service mode per the instructions I don't think I did properly. The procedure is a bit like patting your head and rubbing your belly at the same time--and I guess I screwed something up. Unfortunately I had the caliper and anchor plate off when I realized this and to reenter service mode I would have had to put everything back together again and then take it apart. :doh:

So the bottom line @30K, I think for most people, do the front pads and rotors and do the pads in the back. At 60K you will have to do both sets of rotors.

Oh, and the dog is my brother and sister-in-law's. That picture was from this past Christmas day, and just happened to be on the same camera I used. Unfortunately, he had bone cancer and had to be put down this week :( ... so I thought I would memorialize him.
 

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TripleE said:
Goose,

Per Umberto's upload on the fronts here: http://rangerovers.net/forum/download/file.php?id=3326

How come we can't just do steps 4 and 5? What bolt in step 4 corresponds to your guide?

Thanks man,
3E
3E, you can do the swing away thing if you just want to replace the pads.

But if you want to do the rotor too, its the bolts from hell. Those caliper mount bolts are real easy to remove.

My thought is, since you're taking one of the bolts out (step 4), take the top out anyway & clean and lube up both guide pins while you're in there. You can then put the top bolt back and do the swingaway thing to change the pads without having to hang the caliper away.

The bolt in step #4 is the caliper bolt. It holds the caliper to the mounting frame. There is a guide pin behind it covered with rubber boot--which when you swing away the caliper on the bottom you can easily slide out along with the boot. These need to be greased well with high temp grease so the caliper can move side to side on the fixed mounting bracket. While you are in there, I would pull the both guide pins and boots off and regrease them, especially if you go in water alot. You don't want these to dry out.

Are you preparing for your brake job?
 

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I'm an idiot. :lol: Yes I am, though the dealer is saying I just need pads and they don't turn the rotors (per LR). Doesn't sit well with me, so I might just do everything.
 

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You may not need rotors the first go 'round--can you check yours with a measuring caliper? The wear limit is 27mm, the new one is 30mm, so if you're halfway...you're OK.

Hey, if you do the front pads only, it would take you ~30mins per side including jacking up. Its very easy to do the pads only. Just be careful extracting the driver side sensor :wink:
 

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Yeah, I know :| ...I'm at 42k, and I am assuming I'm ~halfway through the rotors. I would just hate to have a problem with shimmy or something if I didn't get them turned or replaced all together you know? Now you got me thinking of just doing the pads. :crybaby2:
 

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Since you guys brought up the pad wear sensors, while browsing the procedure for the MY2010 on the workshop manual - very similar to the 2006-2009s otherwise - I noticed that LR now requires shops to replace both front and rear sensors along with the pads, whether they have been triggered or not. :roll: And they are still a PITA to disconnect (the connector is under the wheel well liner.)
 

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TripleE said:
Yeah, I know :| ...I'm at 42k, and I am assuming I'm ~halfway through the rotors. I would just hate to have a problem with shimmy or something if I didn't get them turned or replaced all together you know? Now you got me thinking of just doing the pads. :crybaby2:
Btw, you're very light on the brakes if you got 42K out of the stock pads. :thumb:

If it confuses you even more, I probably did not need to change mine but since I was doing the write up I took one for the team.

If you're gonna do the front pads, just double check the back as well. You definitely don't need a rotor replacement back there the first time though.

Also, if you do the front pads only do one step I did not do in my write-up...just deglaze the old rotors with some steel wool or something so you don't get squealing.
 

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umbertob said:
Since you guys brought up the pad wear sensors, while browsing the procedure for the MY2010 on the workshop manual - very similar to the 2006-2009s otherwise - I noticed that LR now requires shops to replace both front and rear sensors along with the pads, whether they have been triggered or not. :roll: And they are still a PITA to disconnect (the connector is under the wheel well liner.)
Interesting...and that's not the case on the -06-09? I can see that probably being a good practice at the dealer. A comeback probably ruins the 150% gross margin on the brake job :D . I think the plastic on the sensor probably gets brittle from the heat over time and I woulda done it...if it wasn't such a chore on the front.

I've got an additional 8K on my old front sensor since my brake job and so far so good. :pray:

And they still couldn't change the location? jeez.
 

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TripleE said:
So if pads only and ordering from BA, I would only need the following? It looks like they contain the new caliper bolts with threadlock.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/SFP500010GK.cfm

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/SFP500140GK.cfm


EDIT: Sensors too, but mine haven't gone off yet.
Yup that's all--the OEM pads come w everything.

All you need is some high temp brake grease, and the tools--c-clamp, wrenches, etc.

P.S. I would get the two sensors...just in case. You will likely need them on the third go round if you don't break them off the first time due to the brittle plastic issue. Also, if you do front and rears, do the rear first to get a feel for how the sensor pulls out--if you break that one its a lot easier to replace.
 
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