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Discussion Starter #1
So reading the forum, doesnt seem like new pads and rotors are too uncommon at 22.5k miles on my 08 RRS S/C?? But I did not see anything other than dealer replacement. Is this a job I can handle myself and where can I buy the parts besides the dealer? Thoughts anyone? Let me know and thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So looks like British Parts of Utah has the stock parts. Also found PBR. NPN, Ferodom and some Akebono but never heard of any of those brands....? Any insight? Thanks.
 

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TripleE said:
goosey is scheduled to post up a DIY on brakes, although an HSE, parts sourcing should be the same.
Yup, I was going to do it this w/e but I was sick :( .

Now I just gotta find a new free Sat morning.

Ferodom (sp?) I've never heard of, but Ferodo without the "m" is one of the stock pad mfgrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah sorry guess that was a typo on my behalf. here is what I found on www.partsgeek.com. So Ferodo is the stock pad? Who makes the stock rotors?

Click to Enlarge
Ferodo Brake Pad Set - Front
Retail Price: $242.31
Your Price: $140.75
Quantity:
Part Number: W0133-1782861
Position: Front
Availability: In Stock
Condition: New
Shipping Options:
Ground, Overnight, 2 Day
This Product Fits the Following: Catalog: Replacement
Vehicle Engine
• 2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport 4.2L V8 Supercharged
 

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The OEM front pads - and discs, I am sure - for the 2006-2009 RRS S/C are made by Brembo. Ferodo makes the original pads for the HSE and the rear brakes of the S/C (as well as brakes for most other Land Rovers these days, it's either them or Textar.) Personally, especially for the high performance front brakes I would spend the extra 70 bucks and get the OEM pads made by Brembo.
 

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gooseyloosey said:
TripleE said:
goosey is scheduled to post up a DIY on brakes, although an HSE, parts sourcing should be the same.
Yup, I was going to do it this w/e but I was sick :( .

Now I just gotta find a new free Sat morning.
Christmas Day it is. Here are the shop manual instructions for front and rear brake pad replacement, not much help but better than nothing. We are all waiting for your "pictorial", goosey. :pray:
 

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Well actually its the Day after Christmas. So if you don't hear from me...say in a day or so after that, you can assume the road test after the brake change may have not gone so well :doh:
 

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TripleE said:
Awesome; I've never done brakes, so if you could also post the procedure for bleeding, etc. and what you used that would be perfect! :thumb:
3E, I'll do step by step w pictures...cause I know how much you like pictures. I'm not going to bleed the brake system on this go-round, just new discs and pads all round--although I may open up the bleeder a bit to push the piston back, depends on how far back I need to push it.

To do the entire system I will take it to someone who has a pressure bleeder. I'll do it on a motorcycle by myself but w/o a pressure bleeder, its a royal PITA on a car.

Oh by the way, I ordered the whole OEM brake kit from one of the site sponsors, British Atlantic--it cost me $559, or $607 w freight included. I can highly recommend them. I ordered it on a Monday and the whole thing was delivered the next day. Very easy and fast. Btw, both folks (Utah and BA) were within few dollars of each other on this but if you live in the NE the shipping from BA is cheaper since the rotors are heavy.
 

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Depends on whether you need only pads or pads and discs (and stealers just love to change discs like underwear... more money for them) and where in the United States you are as hourly labor fees can vary dramatically by location, but you'll get raped without Vaseline either way if you get the brakes done at the dealer. $1,200 and up for a full brake job, pads, rotors and sensors, is not an uncommon quote. Brakes are not covered by the factory warranty anyway, so either find a good brake shop or Land Rover indy mechanic using OEM parts (don't go to a Midas, if you know what I mean...), or do it yourself if you are so inclined. Goosey here will make it look so easy by the time he is done. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was quoted 800 for front rotors and pads. Said my pads etched into my rotors. Well LR make a better rotor! Probably gonna just do the job myself.
 

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Slykmr said:
I was quoted 800 for front rotors and pads. Said my pads etched into my rotors. Well LR make a better rotor! Probably gonna just do the job myself.
I happened to stop by the dealer on my way home last night to pick up some differential fluid, and asked the SA what a complete set would cost. He said between $1300 and $1400 depending on whether I needed new sensors or not.

So here's the way I figure this, economically anyways.

I paid ~$600 for all the parts from BA inc. sensors. I will buy some other bits and pieces (brake lube, etc) I need next week at NAPA and lets assume that is ~$50 (I'll give a detailed itemized cost in my write up). So $1300-$650-my time=$650 savings.

Also assume worst case it takes me or someone 4 hrs to do their whole car. That's an implied labor rate of $162/hr for my labor. If I can do it quicker the implied labor rate is even higher.

So, from an economic standpoint, if I can make >$162 (after tax dollars) an hr doing something else, then it makes sense for me to use the dealer. If not, and I have the ability change them, then it makes sense to do it myself.
 

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Umbertob, Do you have the same type PDF for the rear disk replacement. Have done the fronts, no problems just like most of the other cars I have done. Wondering if you need to loosen the parking break shoes to remove the rear disk as in some cars with drum/disk rears? The P38 had the parking brake on the drive shaft.
Also, if you have not added break fluid, you should not need to open the break lines (bleeder) and subject them to the possibility of air and dirt. I would suggest that most people are better off not bleeding their own breaks unless they have a spongy pedal and a proper bleeder.
I am surprised that there is not a warning on pressing the pedal after installation. If you press the pedal all the way while the pads are not close to the disk, there is a good chance of setting off the fluid failure switch. This is not easy to reset as it usually requires opening a line on the opposite circuit to centralize the sensor. Only small strokes on the pedal should be used to move the pads to the disk until resistance is felt in the pedal. Never push the pedal to the floor for in step 12 of the rear install or step 11 of the front install.
Thanks for the PDF's
 

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Bop08, yes very good points. You also don't want to muck up the master cylinder piston seals by pushing all the way to the floor. I will also find out next week how that rear piston compresses as those directions do not indicate whether it needs to be screwed in. I'm prepared for that as long as I don't need a $40 LR specific tool.
 
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