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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone: I've decided to convert my 95 RRC from EAS to coils and I'm having trouble removing the passenger side front shock. I removed the bottom nut, but the top nut appears to just spin, although the washer under the top nut is looser (i.e., there is a gap between the top nut and the washer immediately underneath as a result of my turning the nut counterclockwise). I'm sure it is pretty basic, but what am I missing here? Happy to answer questions regarding any facts I have failed to present. A basic tutorial on shock removal would be helpful if anyone has the time.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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If you look at the stud above the washer and nut you will find it has a flat spot on each side. That is where you place a wrench, vise grips, channel locks etc to counter the twisting while you turn the nut. Penetrating oil is usually a good thing to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I finally got it. Thanks for the response, but I could not cut them off because I wanted to reuse the shocks. Now to try to get those crusty shock bushings off!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you look at the stud above the washer and nut you will find it has a flat spot on each side. That is where you place a wrench, vise grips, channel locks etc to counter the twisting while you turn the nut. Penetrating oil is usually a good thing to begin with.
Thanks. I found the way to counter the twisting (a hex key in the top of the stud in this case). I should have noticed that, but just missed it. Any thoughts on getting the bushings off without damaging them?
 

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Why worry about bushing damage? Run down to your local parts house and buy new ones. They will only be a few bucks for top ones and few bucks for bottom ones.

I do have to wonder though why you are removing them if you are not replacing them. :think:
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I don't recommend removing the EAS and replacing it with Coil Springs as they are inferior is every respect. All you will do is turn a Range Rover into a Land Cruiser. If Mr Range and Mr Rover had wanted to use coils, they would have done so. Every Range Rover since 1993 has used air springs and for good reason.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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^^x2. You will miss the self leveling. I will convert my coils back to EAS, eventually...


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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Best thing a Classic and/or P38 EAS owner can do is buy an 'EAS Kicker' from BlackBoxSolutions in Cypress. Basic low cost device reads/resets all faults whilst the high spec unit allows real time display of any fault and even wheel sensor readings plus the ability to completely re-map all ride heights for every setting. Simply Brilliant!
 

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...or for free you can build your own cable and download the RSW software.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Best thing a Classic and/or P38 EAS owner can do is buy an 'EAS Kicker' from BlackBoxSolutions in Cypress. Basic low cost device reads/resets all faults whilst the high spec unit allows real time display of any fault and even wheel sensor readings plus the ability to completely re-map all ride heights for every setting. Simply Brilliant!
This does not affect my vintage, but I hoped you could explain more. I was under the impression swapping out the air suspension was a common and desirable thing to do.
 

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Common yes, desirable no. You will no longer have the magic carpet ride, self leveling or adjustable height. For such a basic system where most of hte parts are interchangeable with P38s it makes no sense to castrate end of build Classics. Most common parts are cheap and pricey parts are easily rebuildable.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Yes, swapping out the EAS for Coils is very popular, especially Downunder but it's hardly 'desirable'. Owners become frustrated when a single fault will fix the EAS in Normal ride height and a second fault will lower it to bump stops. (where it can be safely drive slowly home as the EAS bump stops are conical in shape) Anti Land Rover mechanics here will say: "A Thousand + for a new compressor or I can put on a set of coils now Mate, for only $500"

In my experience, the faults are usually associated with the height sensors which are simply wire wound pots and/or with compressor piston wear/failure. The simple LED 'EAS Kicker' allows instant fault reset and diagnosis should it re-appear.

My point is that Coils have a 'logarithmic' compression ratio so are suited to either 'no load' or 'full load' whereas air's compression is 'linear' and the compressor allows automatic right height adjustment and that magical lowing at 80km/hr to provide minimal wind resistance at highway speeds. Plus, of course, user adjustable ride height.

Every Land Cruiser owner in Australia who takes his vehicle off the sealed tarmac has generally spent up to $10K on after market suspension because the factory coils are suited to road use only. Toyota Japan once commissioned me to produce a video to show them why one Gold Mine here with a fleet of 75 Land Cruisers had ordered 75 sets of after market suspension. Most L/R owners down here never need to touch their vehicle's suspension.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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EAS has better articulation as well. It's a mistake to convert to coils. Trust me, I know. One thing you should have w/ EAS, is a MARS in place, it will give you a manual override.


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