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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,
I'm new to this site and although I've owned a couple of land rovers in my time (1 x series 3 and 1 x series 2a lightweight), I am pretty new to this Range Rover lark. I managed to get my hands on a pretty decent looking '02 RR p38 4.0L petrol Westminster model a couple of weeks ago and have had some issues:

1) Within 3 days of having her, the EAS light came on.
I traced this to the Thomas compressor, changed the seal and away I went again! (£22 for the bit. probably saved myself £500 from gong to a dealer!) - problem solved.

2) Cruise control doesn't appear to do anything.
I'm assuming it's to do with the vacuum system having a leak somewhere but haven't got round to finding it yet - to do.

3) Air con doesn't get cold.
I've looked into this and the compressor isn't engaging. applying power manually (bypassing the relay), the solenoid throws fine and engages everything ok, but still no cold air is blowing. The relay also operates fine. I think there must be a leak in the system somewhere (probably from the condenser at the front since I can see some oil on one of the tubes from it). I'll check this out further at a later date - air con is not my highest priority!

4) THIS IS THE BIGGY!!! IT WON'T START!
Been driving her nicely since I fixed the EAS compressor. Came home last night from work, parked up (slight slope with the nose down) and went inside. Couple of hours later I glanced out and noticed all four indicators on solidly. I wondered if it had had a slight knock from someone while parked, so examined the rear for damage and found no evidence of any. Unlocked, looked inside... nothing. So locked her back up and went in again. Everything seemed fine.
This morning went out to start her up, but the engine just turned over without any sign of firing! The battery seemed to go flat rather quickly so I got the discovery (yes, there's one of those in the family but it isn't mine ) and tried to lend some juice. Engine turned over fine but still no firing joy! I've since checked the inertia switch, again in case there was a slight knock last night, but it seems fine from what I can make out. I am yet to check the spark and fuel rail as I didn't have time this morning.

So that's where I'm at: Engine not starting! Any assistance with this would be great, and the sooner the better!

Cheers,

James

PS. Once all this is sorted I'm looking to upgrade the stereo to one with bluetooth and aux-in. I have the HK system with sub and CD changer, and I understand that I need a 70Ohm (ish) signal from the head in order to make things run smoothly. Any ideas what the pk-pk voltage is before clipping on this signal? Is it 1V? Also, does http://www.alpinef1status.com/e/products/items/dvi-9990.htmllook like it might be a decent solution? If so, does anyone know of any other, less expensive units with similar output?
 

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Welcome James, A location would be useful.

Points 2-3

2; not uncommon for the pipe work to split, sometimes the switch on the brake pedal fails. most likely the pipework.

3; points towards a lack of gas in the system. the condensers are prone to rotting.

As far as not starting, does the dash tell you anything? this may point you a clue. This is also why a location is useful as someone can point you in the right direction.

Hope this might been of help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,
yeah they're the kind of conclusions I was coming to.

The not-starting thing: There are no indications of any faults or any problems on the dash other than those normally seen during start-up. That is until the battery becomes slightly low, (which seems to happen rather quickly), when there might be a fault like "Gearbox fault", or something. It seems to vary each time when the battery starts dying.

I've now been able to check the spark and there ARE NO SPARKS! I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but this didn't help (it just gave me the "window not set" messages a lot). However, in resetting the windows, I noticed that the sunroof didn't need resetting - also, the sunroof doesn't open! I'm not sure if this was caused by the battery disconnect or what, but it seems odd.

Another thing I've noticed after reading a bit of the RAVE is that I can change the gear from park without a key in the ignition (it suggests in RAVE that I shouldn't be able to do this).

Could these things all be linked? Do the indicators being on-solid last night mean anything to anyone? Is this just one big BeCM issue? If so, how do I sort it?

All help is very much appreciated!
 

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The gear lever interlock was on some overseas models-- US for example. What yours does is normal for a uk one.
The gearbox fault is a common one with a low battery. Once running(sorry) or charged up this will go.
it really needs to have the codes read, no spark could be a number of things, this is why i asked the location. Someone hopefully will be along with further thoughts and advise.
There is a chap local to me, though along way from you so not much help sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your input John, it's much appreciated. I'll see if I can get someone to come and read the codes. I might even get the AA out! 8-0=
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've just found something called a "sync-mate" online. It says it re-syncs the BeCM with the ECU to alleviate immobiliser issues. Could the immobiliser be causing this? I was under the impression that if the engine was being immobilised then it wouldn't even turn over...?
 

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Hi James
Sounds like your alarm and BECM are out of sink the sink mate works carry one around with me as when am in Coventry at a mates (must stop parking there) it often goes out out sink £120 well spent
Tony
 

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jimbohotpants said:
I was under the impression that if the engine was being immobilised then it wouldn't even turn over...?
That was what I also thought - maybe someone else can confirm this.

One of the more common reasons for an engine to crank and not produce a spark is the CPS failing.

As to your other problems -

Cruise is probably a vacuum leak - have a look at the pipes where they connect to the vacuum unit at the back of the engine bay behind the EAS box. Mine wasn't working very well when we bought it, but that was a seized cable.

AC - remove the grill and have a look at the top left corner (facing the vehicle) immediately under the slam panel - might need to remove this to have a look. You could also get a cheap UV torch from fleabuy to help find leak as most ac systems have a UV dye added to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
tonybig666 said:
One of the more common reasons for an engine to crank and not produce a spark is the CPS failing.
Would this have given some prior warning (running iffy etc)? Would it give a fault on the dash of any kind?

tonybig666 said:
Cruise is probably a vacuum leak
I've had a quick butchers and it looks like some leak sealant fluid's been applied and has cracked a bit. The t-piece looks fine though so I'll just pick up a couple of bits of hose from my local auto factors and give it whirl :)

tonybig666 said:
AC - remove the grill and have a look at the top left corner (facing the vehicle) immediately under the slam panel - might need to remove this to have a look. You could also get a cheap UV torch from fleabuy to help find leak as most ac systems have a UV dye added to them.
I'll try that when I get a chance, and when I get the engine running again!

tonybig666 said:
Sounds like your alarm and BECM are out of sink
Tony, can you clarify whether your engine turns over when this happens, or whether it is completely dead?

Thanks all for your help :thumb:
 

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jimbohotpants said:
tonybig666 said:
One of the more common reasons for an engine to crank and not produce a spark is the CPS failing.
Would this have given some prior warning (running iffy etc)? Would it give a fault on the dash of any kind?
Not necessarily. Sometimes you will get an erratic misfire, sometimes they will just fail with no warning. You will not get any warning on the dash if it just fails. If it causes misfires the MIL will probably light up and there will be misfire codes stored.
When failed the engine will crank, but you will not get a spark as the engine ECU will not be getting a signal to trigger a spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a quick update for those of you who are interested....

Had a deeper look and there was no fuel OR spark, so have ordered a Sync-Mate and am awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE

I got the Sync-Mate this morning, tried it about a hundred times and no go. Instead of switching from blue to green (LED colour of the Sync-Mate), it goes from blue to a single red flash, which, according to the SM bumf signals that the "EMS is not responding to wake-up". What could be the cause of this????? I'm getting pretty frustrated now. :x
 

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jimbohotpants said:
UPDATE

I got the Sync-Mate this morning, tried it about a hundred times and no go. Instead of switching from blue to green (LED colour of the Sync-Mate), it goes from blue to a single red flash, which, according to the SM bumf signals that the "EMS is not responding to wake-up". What could be the cause of this????? I'm getting pretty frustrated now. :x
Check the OBD connector to ensure good contact between the Syncmate and the RR.Could be corrosion or a wire off the plug.The EMS could not be getting the wake up call or alternatively the Syncmate is not receiving the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
John W said:
Check the OBD connector to ensure good contact between the Syncmate and the RR.Could be corrosion or a wire off the plug.The EMS could not be getting the wake up call or alternatively the Syncmate is not receiving the response.
I had to do an EAS fault read a couple of weeks ago that worked fine. Does that use the same pins? Also, the power's definitely there as it does light up blue. I'll double check the connections though. :)
 

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The ignition is switched on?

Sigi
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've tried it with the ignition on and off and no joy either way. I've also tried to check all the connections and make sure they're all ok as best I can without stripping it all out and testing them for continuity.

I guess the only thing I can do is get a proper read out of the fault codes. :?
 

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If you also checked your OBD2 socket for corrosion, then getting the fault codes read will be the best and fastest option, yes...

Sigi
 
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