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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided to take a dive into my transmission. Its been overheating slipping, and going into fail safe. Reving in 4 and 5the limited to manual gears 1-2-3. And been getting P0894 P0735 P0730 and random P0740.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My transmission was overheating , slipping going into failsafe revving in 4th and 5th limting me to to gears 1-2-3 manually. I was getting code P0894 p0730 p0735 and random p0740. I currently have A and B assembly out. my axial needle bearing and oil ring were good along with the steels and friction disk accept for the last steel is bent out of flat. My b clutches and steels are burnt and the b hub is scored. Correct me if I'm naming the parts wrong. I have scoring in the other parts in the photo. but I would like to know what causes scoring and should I get the full rebuild kit or replace whats looks like toast. it will be interesting to see what I will find next in C-d-e-f IMG_20180312_220545.jpg to be continued...:shock: IMG_20180314_205539(1).jpg
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Each clutch pack in the later models of the 5HP24 features an undulating ‘wavy’ plate between the piston and the first steel plate, to provide compliance during clutch engagement (i.e. it acts as a cushion spring). Its thickness is approximately only half that of the steel plates.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Phil! Your replies are always informative as usual. The 3rd and 4th photos above show some kind of wear on the a drum hub and the smallest of the two a. I was wondering if that is from the shim or bearing. My breather was found to be broken off on the inside which probably cause some issues, some of the chunks were in between the a-b tower and case housing. must have been jamming up. IMG_20180312_210659.jpg
 

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When I re-manufacture these transmissions I find that the colour of the plastic breather provides a good indication of how hot the fluid has reached in the transmission.



In your case, it was obviously extremely hot! It would be worth checking the condition of the spool valves in the valve body assembly in case the very high temperatures have caused the hard anodised finish on them to delaminate.



I’m not completely certain what you mean by your reference to scoring. The pictures you have taken of the A and B clutch hubs show the area where the two clutch hubs are EB welded to their respective shafts. There is often weld spatter on these components as a result and this is sometimes roughly ground off with hand tools at the factory. Could this be what the ‘scoring’ marks are? There are no rotating components in close enough proximity to these welds which could touch and cause scoring marks.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When I re-manufacture these transmissions I find that the colour of the plastic breather provides a good indication of how hot the fluid has reached in the transmission.



In your case, it was obviously extremely hot! It would be worth checking the condition of the spool valves in the valve body assembly in case the very high temperatures have caused the hard anodised finish on them to delaminate.



I’m not completely certain what you mean by your reference to scoring. The pictures you have taken of the A and B clutch hubs show the area where the two clutch hubs are EB welded to their respective shafts. There is often weld spatter on these components as a result and this is sometimes roughly ground off with hand tools at the factory. Could this be what the ‘scoring’ marks are? There are no rotating components in close enough proximity to these welds which could touch and cause scoring marks.

Phil
Yes! I was referring to the scoring on the A and B clutch hubs. Now I see what you saying as it does look like they were cleaned up with a dremel bit of some sort. When I checked the spools some did show some finish delamination like your photos above. When I first did the valve body disassembly is when I noticed the wear but I didn't replace them because I wasn't actually overhauling it. Since I'm now at the teardown /rebuild stages, It may be wise to do such. The B clutch shows pitted marks and fine metal particles scracthes from the steels and friction disk overheating and/or wearing. Do you have a photo of a the inside of an unworn overheated B clutch to reference mine? I'm considering replacing with a used one. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The tear down is complete. I didn't find much more except some worn e clutch friction disk with a few steels with burn marks. All o-rings and bearings and f piston was intact. Hopefully the overhaul kit and friction discs will get me back rollin smooth again. on disassembly my A clutch springs were not center flush on top of one another they were off center. Is this correct or incorrect. Also I can't seem to source a replacement breather. This part is what is delaying my rebuild. Can the breather be capped off? Thanks
 

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Good luck with the rebuild. Just shout if I can help out in any way with advice, etc. If you haven't found any obvious mechanical issues which may be responsible for causing your symptoms then I would strongly recommend that you get your valve body assembly tested.

I’m not sure what you mean regarding the A clutch return springs. Early models of the 5HP24 had a single slotted disc spring and then later models used two of the same spring stacked in parallel (i.e. to double the force) so their shape naturally locates them concentrically together once they’re preloaded



The pressing that forms the CF head balancing chamber locates them centrally



The breather part number is 0501 210 179. The RWD Jaguars and BMWs just have a small cap on top of the breather (ZF p/n 1043 325 007)





but the BMW X5 & L322 have a breather tube (presumably to increase wading capability). This tube is available from Land Rover (LR p/n LLH000100)



Have you tried Eriksson Industries or The CTSC for a new breather? I notice, though, that ZF’s electronic parts catalogue states “Part cannot be ordered” for some reason. If you really get stuck, I have a number of used ones in stock (but I’m in the UK).



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Phil. I do see the return springs are mating evenly mine were space off center from one another. I rekon I need to straiting them out even on top ofvone another. Also I'm at a stand still regard finding a breather anywhere in the states. Are you willing to sell me one and ship it to the states. I'm in desparate need of this item without having to go to a yardvand pull a whole transmission just to get tbe part
Thanks for your response
 

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Yes, that's fine. Just send me a PM with your email address and I'm sure that we can sort it out. You'll just need to decide if you want the little button cap or the breather tube (which costs £17.50), unless you still have the old one?

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, that's fine. Just send me a PM with your email address and I'm sure that we can sort it out. You'll just need to decide if you want the little button cap or the breather tube (which costs £17.50), unless you still have the old one?

Phil
Hello Phil. Pm sent! Thanks in advance
 
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