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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Okay soo this has been driving me insane for the past few months. When I drive on the interstate or in a straight line in general there is no issues at all. But when I go to make a slower turn, say for parking, the truck has a binding, almost shuddering, feeling mostly when I turn the wheel left. It does happen when I turn it right too, but its not as bad. I have greased my u joints and it does not come out on every side, soooo it does get grease..... i guess.

Ill give yall a little backstory. My truck is a '98 hse that I bought for $500. That in general should tell you this is no show queen. The truck sat for 3 years on my parents property before the owner decided to sell it to me. But she is my daily driver other than my motorcycle. the previous owner was insanely rich so all the maintenance with fluids and whatnot were good when I bought the truck. Front and Rear diff fluids look like new, as well as the transmission fluid. I changed the transfer case fluid and then have done regular maintenance from there. I have had the front driveshaft break on the interstate and went flying off into the abyss. So I do remember what that feels like. I installed a newly used front drive shaft and all has been good since (kinda). I recently replaced my shocks with Bilsteins and the car was on Coils springs when i bought it so I believe its settled in the offroad height mode (aka the wallet killer mode). I have 32" tires on it, and the tire wear is normal. I bought the truck with 120,000 miles on it, it now has 152,000 so it gets driven a good bit. I live in Alabama so we get a lot of rain, but never snow. It was a New York car before I got it, but the rust is very minimal honestly.

Soo yeah, Im basically throwing everything I know to tell yall out there, I cant figure it out. I am a poor broke college kid that bought the best truck ever in the wrong time of my life. I feel like i should have bought stock in gasoline before i got this car. I am pretty mechanically inclined so get as technicool (see what i did there:D) as you want!

My Ideas on whats happening,
1) Since the truck is "lifted" with the coil springs it has on it, the increased angle on the front drive shaft is killing U joints.
2) The viscous clutch thingy in the transfer case is going out
3) I should never turn my car sharp and forget about it.

THANKS YALL!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Since you have oversize tires and a lift, have you checked to make sure you aren't simply rubbing somewhere in a sharp turn?
Yes I have, It barely scrubs the mudflap at a certain angle. Other than that theres not a single scrubbing issue.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,295 Posts
Your Viscous Coupling is shot!
 

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UJoints have nothing to do with turning. You do however want to upgrade to the longer double cardon drive lines instead straining your original systems. One should lift a P38 unless you are prepared to do the entire project to maintain reliability and safety. Depending on which of the four UJoints fail first you could launch your entire truck like a pole vaulter, have drive line fold back and come through your console/floor or even come apart and rip your gas tank open.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
UJoints have nothing to do with turning. You do however want to upgrade to the longer double cardon drive lines instead straining your original systems. One should lift a P38 unless you are prepared to do the entire project to maintain reliability and safety. Depending on which of the four UJoints fail first you could launch your entire truck like a pole vaulter, have drive line fold back and come through your console/floor or even come apart and rip your gas tank open.
I had a front u joint fail at 75mph towing a motorcycle trailer... scary. I will look into longer drive shafts for sure! thanks for your input!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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soooo what your saying is dont ever turn.....haha
No, what I'm saying is test it and replace it if required.....Quick test:
Handbrake on, transfer neutral
Jack one front wheel off ground
Try to turn wheel with wrench on hub nut.
Should turn slowly with a fair amount of resistance

Proper test (front prop off, handbrake on):
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ...
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
No, what I'm saying is test it and replace it if required.....Quick test:
Handbrake on, transfer neutral
Jack one front wheel off ground
Try to turn wheel with wrench on hub nut.
Should turn slowly with a fair amount of resistance

Proper test (front prop off, handbrake on):
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ...
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft
Thank you for the detailed instructions! I only said that as a joke but I really do appreciate all that.
Just kinda curious, if I need to crack open the transfer case, should i replace anything else in there? is there a belt tensioner or anything like that, that would need servicing?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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Thank you for the detailed instructions! I only said that as a joke but I really do appreciate all that.
Just kinda curious, if I need to crack open the transfer case, should i replace anything else in there? is there a belt tensioner or anything like that, that would need servicing?
possible replace drive chain or complete overhaul by replacing bearings as well. it could benefit at 150,000 plus miles.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thank you for the detailed instructions! I only said that as a joke but I really do appreciate all that.
Just kinda curious, if I need to crack open the transfer case, should i replace anything else in there? is there a belt tensioner or anything like that, that would need servicing?
No need to crack open the transfer case or even remove the box.
You can swap the VC with the transfer box still on the car. Only a couple of hours of leisurely work.
If you've ever got the transfer box off the car, it's most likely because the inverted tooth chain inside has stretched (no tensioner) and needs replacing. Bearings and other bits inside will be subject to condition while you're in there.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #12
No need to crack open the transfer case or even remove the box.
You can swap the VC with the transfer box still on the car. Only a couple of hours of leisurely work.
If you've ever got the transfer box off the car, it's most likely because the inverted tooth chain inside has stretched (no tensioner) and needs replacing. Bearings and other bits inside will be subject to condition while you're in there.
oh sweet! thank you so much Orangebean! Im guessing the instructions are going to be in the rave manual as well right?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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oh sweet! thank you so much Orangebean! Im guessing the instructions are going to be in the rave manual as well right?
Always :)

Here's a precis, courtesy of Ashcrofts:

How to fit a viscous coupling unit

1) Remove front prop shaft
2) Drain oil from transfer box
3) Support gearbox and remove right hand gearbox mount
4) Remove bolt holding Viscous Coupling housing to transfer box
5) Rotate, to break silicone, and remove Viscous Coupling housing
6) Remove flange nut and flange and press out Viscous Coupling
7) Clean all joint faces
8) Replace Viscous Coupling and reassemble in reverse order
 
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