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Discussion Starter #1
As title.. Pulled out of a parking space changed front reverse to drive clonk and wouldn't move, engaged low range and moved under protest and lots of lovely grindy clonky noises!!

Anyway got it home on back of low loader thanks to RAC jacked front up and when I turn the front wheels by hand the front prop pops in and out of the diff housing by over a inch and still lovely expensive noise's!!

How big a job is replacing the diff and how much for a re-con one?? New ones on paddock spares are £350+vat.

I have had differing opinions from 2 different people on how easy it is??

Oh does anybody have a good 2nd one sat in their shed in the Norfolk (England) Area go begging???
 

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Replacing the diff isn't a terrible job, but it can be time consuming. You could probably get a used differential for $400 to $800 in great shape. The unit should come out like this http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TBB000270.cfm. You will also need to remove axle splines I believe...
 

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give Joe a bell on 07785240021 he brakes P38s thinking about it may be easer to replace the whole axle
Tony
 

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If you have plans on keeping your RRover then a good 2nd hand rear center portion (differential unit) would be the best move....BUT you are going to need to investigate why it went in the 1st place, my bet is on VCU in transfer box requires replacing
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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About as easy as it gets as far as diffs go...
Drain the differential fluid and laugh at all the metal bits that come out.
Jack up front end and remove wheels and brakes.
Undo the bolts on the back of the unit bearings/wheel bearings and carefully slide out @6-8". The axle shafts will stay with the unit bearing unless you undo the nut (no need to)
Remove the drive shaft/prop shaft from the diff and secure it out of the way.
Remove the bolts around the front diff and pull the 3rd member out.
Installation, as they say, is reversal of removal with the following precautions:
Clean the mating surface of the "new" diff housing thoroughly and apply gasket of your choice (Permatex etc)
Torque the bolts to spec.
CAREFULLY slide the axle shafts into the differential, being sure not to nick the inner axle seal.
Blah blah blah.
It is a LOT easier than replacing the whole axle. If it was not a drop out 3rd member then gear setup would be costly, but not the case with our Rovers :thumb:
Taking your time I would say a couple of hours assuming no overly stubborn bolts.
Number one reason for them going out in my experience is a bad pinion bearing.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow thanks for that Leftlane. Does sound fairly easy (last famous words)..

The lsat time I had anything to do with a diff was on a Ford Serria in 1988 so was a bit apprehensive about this.

Just trying to find a re-con one at a good price as don't really want to risk a 2nd hand one as that could go 2 weeks down the line!!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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The rover has the same arrangement as a Ford 9" rear end, it's a drop out 3rd member. There is no gear setup etc in the Rovers if you buy a reman/good used one.
I am just about to put a newer one in mine this weekend, and anticipate @2hr job from start to finish with the air tools etc. that includes cleaning up and filling with new fluid. :thumb:
In my case, I think I have a bad pinion bearing,as replacing the seal didn't cure my oil leak from the diff.

Martin
 

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I recently replaced the VC at home with good results... ;)
I haven't been game to "explore" the Rover diff issues having had a very bad experience years ago on our family GM car when I ended up having to put the whole lot on a trailer and convince the local gearbox/diff fixer-upper-er -for a hefty price 8-0= :crybaby2: -to right my well intentioned wrongs... :evil:

So: forgive my ignorance on this please..but: having a drop out "third" member..does this mean that lockers for example are easier to fit/can be fitted by competent DIYers without the need for time consuming matching of crown wheel/pinion spacing etc?
thanks in advance
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Hoges said:
I recently replaced the VC at home with good results... ;)
I haven't been game to "explore" the Rover diff issues having had a very bad experience years ago on our family GM car when I ended up having to put the whole lot on a trailer and convince the local gearbox/diff fixer-upper-er -for a hefty price 8-0= :crybaby2: -to right my well intentioned wrongs... :evil:

So: forgive my ignorance on this please..but: having a drop out "third" member..does this mean that lockers for example are easier to fit/can be fitted by competent DIYers without the need for time consuming matching of crown wheel/pinion spacing etc?
thanks in advance
Having the drop out 3rd member means that when you install the differential itself (say a used or reman one), it just bolts in with the gears already set. On a "normal" axle (Dana 44, 60, etc) the gears are installed into the axle housing itself.
Gear install will be cheaper, as they are a LOT easier to set up for the installer than a "normal" axle. Even my big rig has a drop out 3rd member to make replacement quicker.
You still need to set the gears up though if replacing the differential with a full carrier locker, replacing the ring and pinion, and so on. It is just easier when the thing fits on a workbench, as opposed to having to lump around a full axle housing and needing case spreader etc...
Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Ok, I lied.
It took 3hrs in total.
You also need to remove 1 end of the tie rod behind the diff to enable enough room to remove the old and install the new. Missed that part in my above instructions :oops:
The old diff had @3/16" of side play in the ring gear!!!
No more oil leaks up to yet :thumb:
THANKS SCOTTY!!!!!
Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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How did you split the diff from the axle housing? The RTV sealant on mine is very tenacious ;-).. Chisel gently into the joint?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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ckuhtz said:
How did you split the diff from the axle housing? The RTV sealant on mine is very tenacious ;-).. Chisel gently into the joint?
Ran a Stanley knife around the joint to cut the RTV, then it started coming apart with the pressure of the blade alone! I was VERY surprised (disappointed) that there was no gasket there myself....

Martin
 

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That definitely didn't work for me. I ended up trying a floor jack with a 2x4 scrap piece on the diff housing and gentle leverage was enough to break the seal. I've since then found out that the dealership uses "Right Stuff" RTV for sealing these flanges..
 

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ckuhtz said:
That definitely didn't work for me. I ended up trying a floor jack with a 2x4 scrap piece on the diff housing and gentle leverage was enough to break the seal. I've since then found out that the dealership uses "Right Stuff" RTV for sealing these flanges..
Turps (turpentine) is remarkably good at destroying the properties of RTV. Dowsing the seal with turps for a while before hand, will often soften it enough to aid removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok so after a year of not being able to afford (Due to accident and not working) the £300 for a re-con diff I have not got said diff sat in my garage!! :dance:

Any how after taking the old one out..

Spot the difference


Umm what's missing??


Oh there it is...


Anyway the real reason to this post is..... The bolt in bottom right of picture just under CV joint?? (yes I hear you say) well what lb do I torque the 4 of them too as they hold the hub on??

(Sorry camera phone picture but hopefully good enough!!)

Also to recomend http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/17175 for the people living where you can get Screwfix! As it worked a treat on the black gunk that the factory or last owner used to seal my old diff. Of course I'll be using blue polymer stuff instead when I fit the new diff tomorrow!!
 

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Sigh. That 3rd picture brings back memories....
 

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I believe that's called bearing failure!! :)

Jollygiant said:
Anyway the real reason to this post is..... The bolt in bottom right of picture just under CV joint?? (yes I hear you say) well what lb do I torque the 4 of them too as they hold the hub on??
135 Nm (100lbf.ft)
It's in RAVE: Workshop Manual > Front Suspension - EAS > Repair > DRIVE SHAFT AND HUB ASSEMBLY
It's also listed in the 'Torque Values' section as "Hub and drive shaft assembly bolts".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
paul.adshead said:
135 Nm (100lbf.ft)
It's in RAVE: Workshop Manual > Front Suspension - EAS > Repair > DRIVE SHAFT AND HUB ASSEMBLY
It's also listed in the 'Torque Values' section as "Hub and drive shaft assembly bolts".
Thanks.

For some reason I find it really hard to find my way around the RAVE...
 
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