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Discussion Starter #1
My on-going attempt to get a 2nd key programmed (remote and transponder)
I hope by documenting my progress, it will help out someone else and get to my goal.

Car is a 2005 ranger rover HSE L322. It is a US car and specifically first sold in California.
I have one work key:
IMG_20200206_102907.jpg


It looks beat up but all buttons still work. It is time to get a 2nd key before this 1st working one stops working.

I bought a $15 flip key off ebay. It is supposed to have all electronics and transponder chip inside:

IMG_20200206_102917.jpg


I have a local locksmith copy the key insert over from the old key to the new.

IMG_20200206_102928.jpg


I followed these instructions I found:
----------------------------------------------------
1) Get in and close all doors. Turn ignition on and off quickly and remove the key (all within about 5 seconds).

2) Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition off, while holding down the "unlock" button, press the "lock" button three times. Release the "unlock" button. (You may or may not get the confirmation from the door locks.) Holding the key at your head level provides best results as the key sensor is in the side window pillar.

3) Repeat for each key you want to initialize within 30 seconds after the last one you initialized (if you have more).

4) Right after doing the last key, quickly put the key back in the ignition and turn it on/off again to finalize.
----------------------------------------------------

But I failed at step 2 - I don't get confirmation from door locks.
Questions regarding these instructions... Step 1 is using the working key of course. Then use the working key on step 2? And new key for step 3, right?

Next I will buy a new key shell for my working key and have the key insert copied over and all electronics moved over so that I have a good-looking working key. Still I want to get this 2nd (flip) key to work. I have a Autel MS906BT scanner. Does it do the job of programming a 2nd key? I understand the remote portion (the buttons to lock unlock doors and open trunk) is different from the immobilization transponder portion which allows key to turn after insertion and start the engine.

My autel cannot decode the VIN. That might be another problem I have to resolve first (if it would do the programming job):

IMG_20200206_084455.jpg
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Your new key will not be able to start the truck until you have a talk with the ews immobilizer. This is how the bmw ews works. You pull the ews out and connect it to a tool to write the new key into it. You need a desktop or laptop as well. Takes 5min and pronto you are good to go. While you are there, delete all old keys out of the ews except the ones that you have. That way if someone somewhere had those old keys, now they are no longer good keys. Willing to lend you my AK90+ tool if you need it for just this job but you must send it back to me. I bought it and used it on my e60 and L322 and now sitting around for next time I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would love to. I will PM you, Rovah.
The info one can gather when googling about this could be confusing because most of time people do not tell exactly what model they have. L322 has many different engines, transmission and their computers. The immobilizers are so quite different, along the key insert, push button, etc. I wish there was a site just specifically share info about how to make keys for cars.
This L322 of mine is a 2005. It is a left hand drive marketed / sold for US market (if that makes a different.) It has a BMW immobilizer (EWS). BMW key copying is notoriously hard if not impossible without some key copying tool.
I will report back how it is done when I am done... with the cheapest way to do it right... for my model.
 

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The Ak90+ does the key writing for 03-05 L322s being BMW EWS. Yes the info on these mods is scarce and golden lol some folks would rather pony up $400 for new key to the dealership and be done. Maybe I will start writing keys for pocket change where I will have folks send me their ews and already cut keys to write. $20 with shipping tracking included I don't know lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to Rovah lending me the AK90+, I got the immobilizer portion working. The key can now start the engine and I have taken enough photos to show how (and I will). But I can't get the buttons to control the doors and trunk. Supposedly use the new working key to turn ignition on (position 2, before cranking) and off 3 times, and while pressing and holding unlock button, press the lock one time and release all buttons, then the doors will lock and unlock to signal the sync.... I could never get the signal. What did I do wrong?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Just turn the key on and off once, and remove it from the ignition switch (has to be out of the ignitions switch) then push the buttons. After one is done, do your second set (don't put the key in the ignition between keys though). After the last key is done put the original key back in turn it on and then off. Also make sure you have the right frequency on the circuit board inside the key. NA uses 315 MHz (up to 2014 or so), the rest of the world uses 433MHz. Some circuit boards have both frequencies some only have one or the other.

To link a key with the 02-05 L322 Range Rover Body Control Module (BCM) there are a few steps that need to be performed.

1. Enter the vehicle and make sure that all doors are shut and locked.
2. Insert the new key into the ignition switch.
3. Turn the key to position 1 (RUN). Turn the key to position 0 and remove within 5 seconds.
4. Within 25 seconds perform the following steps
5. Press and hold the unlock button on the remote.
6. Press the lock button 3 times.
7. Press both unlock and lock together. (conflicting info if this step is necessary)

If the procedure was successful, the doors will lock and unlock.
Repeat steps 4-7 for additional keys.
Turn the ignition switch on and back off to finalize programming.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ha, thanks Mark, I got the original working key to signal (doors unlock and lock) finally but I still could not get the new key (blade cut and immobilizer programmed) to signal. It might be a dead battery? God knows how long this ebay seller has kept them in warehouse. I will go to Autozone to use their key tester to see if it emits signal and if it is 315mhz tomorrow.
These keys have rechargeable battery? How does the battery get recharged? Some sort of wireless vibration like Qi? I don't see any contact points on the key.
 

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Oh by the way, the order you program the keys for locking and unlocking the doors, is the order the keys will have the driver options, so when you program key 1, it becomes driver 1's key, and goes with their seat setting, radio settings, etc. the second key will belong to driver 2, and so on. So if you are adding keys that will just sit in a drawer or something to get into the car incase you get locked out, make sure you add them last, or not at all. It only affects driver options, not the immobilizer functions.

I don't know how they charge, and that may indeed be a later model feature (07 and up) I don't think my 06 recharges the baterries especially with an aftermarket key. It would have to use the transponder coil in the ignition switch bezel as some kind of wireless charge coil as thats the only electrical part close enough to the FOB to charge it. I don't think they can run a voltage up the key blade since its not physically attached to the electronics inside the FOB..
 

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You repeat step 2 for each key fob you want to program. Keep in mind that you must program all key fobs at the same time - not just the new one, as the ECU uses a rolling code every time you enter the programming procedure, rendering the other fobs useless if you don't reprogram them as well (step 2).

If you can't get you control module to enter programming mode (door locks cycle) try this sequence for step 2, which works for my 2006 even though 2003-2006 should be the same.

Hold the key fob near the ignition switch in the console (2-6 inches). Press and hold the unlock button while pressing the lock button 3-8 times quickly. Door locks will cycle when you enter programming mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ha. I think I figured why the new key does not sync. It has a ID46, not a ID44. Thanks to Rovah for pinpointing. I am getting a ID44 and will see in a few days. I will update all the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok. I got everything done. That first key I bought had a dead battery. 2nd key works perfectly.
I will try to sum up what I have gone thru in the next update...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ok. Let me try to jot down all I have learned.
I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE (L322) and the car was made for US market.
It has a lot of BMW stuff in there. Engine is a BMW M62. A lot of control modules are BMW including the key remote control and immobilizer.
This is the original key:



And you can "upgrade" to the flip out kind like this:


It is only $15 on ebay. It has all the electronic you need inside.
Here in my case, I have a working key and was trying to make a 2nd key. The situation will be different if you have a ALL KEYS LOST situation (just a few extra steps that we can talk about in a separate thread if you ask.)
Stealers would want a few hundred bucks for a 2nd key (or even if you have lost your only key - same procedure to them.). They can cut key blade and preprogram the chip because they have the code of ignition tumbler and the codes of all the key slots in your EWS - the module (by BMW) that controls your immobilizer. You don't even have to bring them the car.
Local locksmith can also do but the will overwrite the info in the EWS and if you later order key from Land Rover, it might not work.

Anyway, in my situation with my specific model (I think 2002 to 2005 made for US market - 317Mhz - all the same), here is what I have done to save myself $ and have a 2nd key for the in case.

There will be 3 different components to deal with.
1. Physically cutting the key blade.
2. Programming the immobilizer.
3. Programming the remote buttons.

1. Physically cutting the key blade so that you can open the doors and trunk, and insert into the ignition slot. Remember for our car, if your immobilizer is not programmed, you can only insert the key but it electronically would not let you turn. Go to your local locksmith and they would copy it for you. They actually have to decode it first, and then use the code to cut your new key. Ask them the code while they are at it. Knowing the code for the blade for future use. My locksmith charges me $20. I think ACE hardware does it too for like $30.

2. Programming the immobilizer. This is the immobilizer:

2020-02-22 11_37_46-Photo - Google Photos.jpg


You can call it the chip, the transponder, the immobilizer (and I have used it interchangeably). This tiny thing emits signal and you can write info on to it. Do not loose it. It is inside your key somewhere. You need the AK90+ programmer (and many other options I am sure) to program it. It is available for under $30 on ebay. There are plenty of youtube videos to show how to use it. You have to take out your EWS from the center console*. The AK90+ write on to the EWS about this chip and also write the VIN on to this chip. With this programmed correctly, you can now turn the ignition key from off to position 1 and position 2, and crank and start the engine.

3. programming the remote buttons. This is the job of the circuit board inside the key. Its functionality has nothing to do with the immobilizer chip. You can move it to another key without moving the immobilizer chip. This is to lock unlock the doors and open the trunk. It is NOT talking to the EWS. The module is some sort of radio module located in the trunk lid:



You need to make sure your new key is ID44, not ID46 and its FCC ID is LX8FZV. The one I bought has no LED light and has a dead battery and no instructions to open. I managed to open it and found out battery is dead. Anyway, to program (or sync) it, you turn your (old working or new) key to on (not crank) and off 3 times, then while pressing and holding the unlock button of new key, press the lock button 3 times, then let go, you should hear the doors locked unlocked. Then you need to program the working key again because each time you do a sync, you have to do all keys as it would erase all old. Then, to finalize, insert key and turn on and off. Now all key buttons should unlock lock door and open trunk.

Total cost for me to make this 2nd key?
$16 for the key from ebay
$20 for cutting the blade
$25 for AK90+ (which I can resale or keep for my BMW, Mini cooper, land rover, etc..)

Total = $61.

* Center console... The EWS is located right next to the ignition key. It is not under the steering column. You remove the gear selector, then the plate (4 screws if I remember correctly) under it, then you will see the white box. It is ONLY held up by one bolt (8mm I think). That means you do not need to lift up the console. Here is some pics I took:

IMG_20200217_181659.jpg

IMG_20200217_181746.jpg


IMG_20200217_181829.jpg


Let me know if I missed anything.
I just hope no one needs to be raped by stealships. I HATE THEM SO MUCH.
 

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This thread is awesome. Thank you Rovah and fixingstill for sharing.

@Rovah, where did you get those gorgeous keyfobs from? Those silver Land Rover branded ones...
 

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This thread is awesome. Thank you Rovah and fixingstill for sharing.

@Rovah, where did you get those gorgeous keyfobs from? Those silver Land Rover branded ones...
Got the LR branded one here...it ships from out of states. USA CHROME SWITCHBLADE KEY REMOTE FOR RANGE ROVER BRAND NEW CHIP NEVER CODED FOB | eBay

But you can get that same style key without the LR logo for $20 in the states.
 
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