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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2004 RangeRover HSE. I’m a BMW enthusiast, and picked this out due to the engine being familiar to me. First time on this forum, hopefully it’s this one is active.
The L322 model that I purchased has 164k miles on it currently. And has pretty extensive maintenance records, including multiple transmission fluid changes around 130k miles.
What is the best diagnostic tool for this vehicle? And where can repair instructions be found? I recently drove this home, and I was very pleased with the power steering and road connection. Feels like a BMW honestly. Land Rover in general are known to be money pits. But I think this particular model with the m62 has to be pretty solid. Does anyone know how many miles you can get out of this transmission if fluid changes are done?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Congratulations on your 2004 acquisition. You're correct -- the M62 engine is generally well-regarded by Rover mechanics, a solid mill. Info on diagnostic software and electronic repair guides can be found through corresponding searches on this board. Info on various paper workshop manuals can be found by searching for "9781855209046" on this board. You might Google "robison rover buying" as well. My original 2004 ZF 5HP24 transmission has only 122K miles on it, but I routinely flog it while towing a 5,000 lb camping trailer including occasional brief trans overheating on most steep Sierra grades (the engine invariably runs cool), but it keeps on spinning without complaint, perhaps due to 10K mile severe service trans fluid changes. FYI, most/all of the BMW engine and transmission cooling system components are suspect after 100K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I’m in need of some diagnostic scan tool on eBay.
The carfax says that the blower motor was replaced/ repaired at 154k, and the resistor was replaced at 162k. And my A/C randomly shuts off, and starts again. Is there anything left to check?
 

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The GAP IID tool is nice, I like it. But I don't have any experience with other scan tools that work with L322. Transmission life varies highly with driving style, since you don't know that, pretty hard to predict. But heavy cars with strong V8's rarely go much past 200k in the original ZF and many fail before that.
 

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Chiming in on NorCal's comment, I recall comments on other boards how BMWs with the same ZF transmissions seem to last longer than Rovers. The assumption is that the greater weight of the Rovers makes the difference in transmission longevity.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know if this repair manual # 9781855209046 will show me how to replace the blower motor under the dash? I believe that is my issue, if this continues when I replace the final stage unit. This interior comes apart pretty well. The toughest part for me is removing the vents without breaking the tabs.
 

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You can’t get very long with transmission fluid in these cars, the fluid breaks down pretty quick due to high transmission oil temps that the designers wanted to run to boil out any moisture that may enter the system due to the transmissions being designed to be “sealed for life,” which everyone knows is BS. Even when your cooling system is working properly, the transmission oil temp will go up to about 100 degrees C and level off around there. If your radiator lower rows or your transmission liquid-to-liquid cooler gets blocked (very common on the radiator as people frequently use the incorrect coolant, should be BMW blue or G48, NOT Prestone green), then your transmission temps could go up to 120 or in extreme conditions, long idling or traffic, up to 140 C where the transmission ECU will shift to a “cooling strategy” mode where it basically doesn’t shift past 2nd gear IIRC. And the car will not give you a trans overheat warning for that. By the time you see the trans overheat warning it is far too late.

High temps cook out the fluid’s additives, lead to clutch slipping and varnish buildup. In my humble opinion transmissions should have an operating temperature between 75 and 90 C and not a degree higher, but who am I to determine that. I’m not a pro mechanic or Land Rover or BMW engineer but a simple Rover and BMW enthusiast that wants to keep their car running forever and in good shape without having to go spend $$$ at the Stealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree with that statement. But when the transmission fluid breaks down, or gets burnt. The electronics inside the valve body have a hard time reading the pressures, temperatures, and velocity of the fluid due to the fluid being dark. This is when the transmission will start to get sloppy, and the clutch packs will slip more, and engage harder. So this increase the wear significantly. My moms x5 4.8 has 179k miles, and is dealer maintained. (Which means the transmission fluid wasn’t done) It’s the first thing I did. I’ll do the filter, and fluid again in a couple months.
As far as my Range Rover goes. It’s shifts like butter. Which is VERY unusual for a Range Rover with 170k miles. But as I mentioned. It was serviced by a Range Rover specialty shop, and the fluid / filter was replaced at 130k, and then again a couple hundred miles later. I will be doing the trans fluid very soon again.
Does anyone have the icarsoft v2 diagnostic tool? If so, does it read the transmission temperature ? That will be my next purchase I think. I am also getting a very loud noise coming from under my headlight. There’s a white connector that I found unplugged when I bought the RR. So I plugged it in, and the loud noise immediately came on. I was thinking maybe it’s the headlight wiper motor? But why would it make all that noise with the car shutoff and key out? Lol
 

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I use the iLAND from Atlantic British and that is an awesome tool. You can connect to EVERY module in the Rover and read live data as you drive around. Live transmission system pressure, oil temperature, engine temperature, gearbox mode (normal, failsafe, cooling, etc.), current gear, kick down status, adaptions, etc. It's very powerful. I would highly recommend it.

I paid $400 for the option that unlocks the full fat RR. You pay additional licences for other classes of Land Rover vehicles, of which I have none, so it was just a single license buy. But I can connect it to ANY full fat Range Rover, regardless of year. It's not tied to any VIN, so my buddy with a 2012 Autobiography was able to use it to interrogate all of his modules too and it's a no brainer to have one for both of my Rovers.

Good on you for changing the fluids, remember to use an OEM "Made in Germany" "FILTRAN" filter. Steer clear of the CRP and other Made in China junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do have INPA for my BMWs, along with ISTA-D/ ISTA-P. My question is now. Which chassis do I select on INPA? I’ve heard of people using it. But not sure how they selected a chassis, or which one.
 

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Does anyone have the icarsoft v2 diagnostic tool? If so, does it read the transmission temperature ?
The iCarsoft does read transmission temperature - both v1 and v2. It is unable to program modules or make changes but as a fault code reader/clearer and live data reader its extremely useful considering the price. Plus it works on all OBD compliant Land Rovers from around 2002 onwards.
 

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I do have INPA for my BMWs, along with ISTA-D/ ISTA-P. My question is now. Which chassis do I select on INPA? I’ve heard of people using it. But not sure how they selected a chassis, or which one.
INPA works for some modules on the 2002 to 2005 L322's but unfortunately I cant remember what chassis you need to select. The best and cheapest of the BMW diagnostic units that I have used is the PA Soft 1.4.
 

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I do have INPA for my BMWs, along with ISTA-D/ ISTA-P. My question is now. Which chassis do I select on INPA? I’ve heard of people using it. But not sure how they selected a chassis, or which one.
ISTA will not work with L322, you really want either iLand or IIDTool. Anything less and you’re going to wish you spent money on the ones that get the job done. I bought iCarsoft and returned it immediately, it was nowhere near the functionality I needed.
 
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