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Discussion Starter #1
I did my research but couldnt find my problem. Last Sat my 2000 4.6 got the "slow to 35" error on my way to work. After parking at work it lowered itself to bumpstops. I drove it for about another 15 miles before getting it to my mechanic on Mon. He checked the code and said it is showing the code for either Air spring leak or Valve block leak. He sprayed the valve block to check for bubbles and nothing. He visually inspected air springs and said they looked ok. Resetting the code "fixed" everything as the car instantly rose back up. Everything was fine until Sat a few days ago. Same thing. On my way to work, get the error it lowers to bumpstops at work. Sunday I drive to work on bumpstops and back to my girlfriends house. When I was leaving my girlfriends house to go home I noticed the Rover was back up to at least highway mode. Turned it on and no error for a few seconds but then it came back. Drove it home it never lowered to stops. I did notice after coming back from vacation a month ago that it took a lot longet than usual to raise back up as it lowered all the way down over the 5 days we were gone. Also even when in fault mode the compressor seems to run a lot it just doesnt lift up. At least not until today.

As far as what it does overnight prior to the faults. Well that is very random. Some mornings I come out and it never lowered itself but compressor still runs for a bit at start up. Other mornings I come out and it has lowered to about highway mode or lower. Those morning it takes a few miles to raise back up although the last 4 weeks it has taken about 10 min.

I am taking it back to the mechanic tomorrow to reset the code to buy me time to figure it out. If it is valve block I will order a reman and take it to him. But want to make sure I am replacing the correct part. Also the valve block has some O rings changed about 8 months ago. Not sure which ones but they were changed after getting an EAS fault.

Hopefully someone can help me narrow it down. Also I want to keep the EAS. Maybe I am crazy but I want to keep the Rover as close to what Land Rover meant it to be. ;>)
 

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Shupack, the EAS expert, will be along either tonight or tomorrow sometime I am sure. And you read http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm#suspension

Meanwhile do a visual check for yourself of the bags. If they are cracking http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/index.html#springleak its time to find some new ones.

"Soft Fault Mode": This is my own name for the less serious condition when the EAS FAULT message appears, accompanied by the Christmas tree lights on the dash, but not the the "35 MPH" warning. The suspension can no longer be moved from the current height, but will continue to run the compressor and make adjustments. In this case you are lucky; if the cause of the fault goes away, the fault clears itself when you switch off the engine for a while and restart it. In my experience and from other owner reports to date, this condition seems to be caused mainly by intermittent electrical faults, such as a bad EAS relay in the engine compartment fuse box, a bad ground somewhere in the EAS system, some other intermittent electrical connection, or possibly a faulty height sensor.
 

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some orings changed? If one is bad, there's 37 others that are almost bad... when he sprayed it down for leaks, had the system been re-set and repressurized? I've seen that happen before, "no leaks!" but no pressure = no possibility of leaks..

"acting strange" almost always calls for an overhaul. Rebuild the block/comrpessor and 90% of the troubles will go away. then have a good hard look at the springs, it's likely they're leaking a little just based on age.
 

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I guess I did kinda do a overhaul. Bags, block driver, pump, "buddy box" and a block rebuild. Wasn't that bad really.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes the mechanic had waited for the vehicle to raise back up and compressor stop prior to spraying solution.

I hear a lot about rebuild. It isnt something I want to attempt and when I bring it up to a couple of mechanics I use they say it cant be rebuilt need to replace. So I figured my best option would be to by a Reman one and have them install.

I dont mind replacing springs, compressor and valve block but would prefer to do it over time. Would like to start with what is causing the problem here and do the rest over time. I planned to go to Arnot when these give way. The backs don't look as cracked as the examples online but I will take another look.

The Rover has about 105k on it.

Thanks for all the responses so far.
 

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Unscrew your exhaust silencer on the valve block after full pressure has been reached. Leave your drivers door open to freeze the auto leveling. Put your finger over the hole and hold to see if any air is purging. This may take a few minutes. Spraying soapy water will not show a leak from this port.
Regards Russell.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HSE said:
Unscrew your exhaust silencer on the valve block after full pressure has been reached. Leave your drivers door open to freeze the auto leveling. Put your finger over the hole and hold to see if any air is purging. This may take a few minutes. Spraying soapy water will not show a leak from this port.
Regards Russell.
If it leaks from that port do I need a valve block?

Thanks
 

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yellowfever said:
HSE said:
Unscrew your exhaust silencer on the valve block after full pressure has been reached. Leave your drivers door open to freeze the auto leveling. Put your finger over the hole and hold to see if any air is purging. This may take a few minutes. Spraying soapy water will not show a leak from this port.
Regards Russell.
If it leaks from that port do I need a valve block?

Thanks
If you don't mind spending the money yes. Or they can be repaired or just the faulty solenoids replaced. Read my thread 'EAS soleniod repair'. Regards Russell.
 

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yellowfever said:
...they say it cant be rebuilt need to replace...
bunk...

So I figured my best option would be to by a Reman one and have them install..
see above, they just contradicted themselves...

the LR offical answer is "the valve block is not serviceable, must be replaced with new" because they charge $1500 for a new block. Most independent LR shops are LR trained, so that's what they know. Other shops will look it up on AllData and see the same info.

All you need is a few hours time and $25 worth of orings. I've rebuilt well over a hundred, and shipped 1000's of oring kits in the last 4 years. I'm surprised LR hasn't caught on yet.

And you can put the soapy water directly on the exhaust muffler, it will bubble if there's leakage.
 

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Dennis said :
And you can put the soapy water directly on the exhaust muffler, it will bubble if there's leakage.

Yep true Dennis in some cases, but this one I has just repaired would not bubble through the silencer, the leak was very small. Only picked it up with a pressure gauge!!! Russell.
 

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shupack said:
yellowfever said:
...they say it cant be rebuilt need to replace...
bunk...

So I figured my best option would be to by a Reman one and have them install..
see above, they just contradicted themselves...

the LR offical answer is "the valve block is not serviceable, must be replaced with new" because they charge $1500 for a new block. Most independent LR shops are LR trained, so that's what they know. Other shops will look it up on AllData and see the same info.

All you need is a few hours time and $25 worth of orings. I've rebuilt well over a hundred, and shipped 1000's of oring kits in the last 4 years. I'm surprised LR hasn't caught on yet.

And you can put the soapy water directly on the exhaust muffler, it will bubble if there's leakage.
Dennis,

I already supply some LR official shop who do VB rebuilts for their best clients
 

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I spoke with a parts manager at the Rally, and at my local dealer. Both said "if it isn't stamped LR, we can't use it."

Maybe it's a US thing...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update to my problem. Took it back to the same mechanic to check the code. Code read that the left valve was stuck. He checked the rear left back and said it needs replaced. It is cracked up along the bottom edge. He said that if the computer senses that a specific bag constantly needs more air than normal it shuts the system down as to not wear out the valve to that bag.

Strange though. A lot of mornings when I go to the car it is still sitting pretty high. I would think it would have lowered down if a bag was leaking enough for the computer to sense it.

I guess I will replace the bags with the Arnott and see if that fixes the problem..
 

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"XX valve stuck shut" is typically a worn out compressor, NOT a bad valve. The solenoids are just electro-magnets, they don't wear out, and a few cracks won't harm operation. the driver module may be failing on that corner, but worn compressor is more likely.
 

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Both said "if it isn't stamped LR, we can't use it."
Hi Dennis, no it's here as well with all makes... OEMs demand that genuine OEM branded parts are used as part of their compliance requirements for logbook servicing/warranty obligations...
cheers
A.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update to my problem. I had them change the rear bags with Arnott since the mechanic said he though it was the left rear bag. Turns out that may not have been the problem as a week later same problem. I am thinking compressor as it is taking about 20 min to get the car raised up. It just runs and runs stopping for a few seconds every once it awhile. Or maybe the air storage tank has a leak? My thinking is if the compressor is running for 20 min that air has to be going somewhere right? So either it isn’t pushing much air and that is why it runs so long or else there is a leak at the area that stores the air. We already did a leak test around the compressor and valve block. Any suggestions would be appreciated so I don't end up changing every part trying to find the problem...

Ahhh and to think I gave up an 05 BMW that I put 70k miles on and never had a single problem. Am I crazy for not regretting that? I don't but it would seem a sane person would...

Thanks again all for your help...
 

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Have you done a proper valve block check?
About 12 m ago I was having same symptoms.. so replaced compressor ring and cylinder... still problems... rebuilt valve block...problems...some solenoids were suss... in a fit of fiscal fantasy :shock: I replaced the valveblock... was Ok for a while then....
Last weekend I finally pulled out the (new) valve block and on a hunch from this forum of late rechecked the three non -return valves... the tiny rubber o-rings seemed glazed... so swapped them over. Refitted... compressor runs minimally, etc etc... can't believe it :think: :clap:

Have come to conclusion that as a preventative maintenance measure, o-rings need to be done every 2 yrs or even once a year... forget mileage, it's also about age/heat etc...

good luck

BTW I see even Audi and MB are progressively moving to airbag suspension on their soft roaders... s'pose it had to happen :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, what should I start with? At this point I think my guess will be as good as my mechanic. They have been good to me. Every week I go in after the fault (The Rover goes almost exactly 5 days after resetting the EAS fault before it faults again) code comes on and they take a look and reset the code and tell me to drive it and see what happens. (No charge) The last fault was different. I didn't get the 35 MPH fault it just lit up the rocker switch, shut the compressor off and by the time I got it to the mecahnic it was lowered to bump stop on the rear but not front. All the rest of the faults the compressor still ran it would drop evenly to bump stops and sometimes after a few days it would raise back up. The last reset he manually filled the air tank up. The compressor ran for short period in the beginning but as time went on it ran longer. Then it got to the point it would run 30 sec, then shut for a few second then run again. I had been putting it in high mode when I parked it at night and it wasn't dropping much. Too make an already long story less long I am thinking about just ordering a reman compressor and have them install it. I figure 102k on the truck it will go out soon anyways so I would start with that and see if that fixes it. What do you guys think? Oh and the rear bags are brand new and the there are no leaks anywhere around the valve block.

Thanks
 
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