RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello to everyone. I introduced myself shortly in new members section so I will make it short.
Last year I purchased a 1992 LHD RRC 3.9 V8 for restoration purpose only. The reason for a RRC is that it feels to me , it was build to leave behind years of traffic,roads,hills,snow,dirt...Ok it is not very old but when I look at it I sense this weird strong feeling of life experience, time,shaped in to metal... I respect that. Renovating and giving it to chance to live longer to serve for its original purpose somehow makes me feel relaxed and calm . Also I rest when i keep working on things i like.

I have been using this forum as an important resource before-during this project and I believe its my turn to share the experience, show my gratitude and thank you all. This my first time on any forum, I might make mistakes,just warn me.
Okay, i purchased the car May 2013. Had a chance to enjoy it for only for a week before it stopped working. So project begun.
Now i have hundreds of pictures to choose from, i will arrange and post as much, in a certain time line. I will be waiting for your comments.Thanks.

Okay lets get started...

First a brief inspection;
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I start removal first battery then bonnet,trunk and doors for easy access inside.Seats,carpets and air blover and other plastic trims. Remove every panel you can ,disconnect fuel hose from tank. Aim is to seperate body from chassis so lighter is better.
Remove brake pedal, handbrake cable from transmission side,throttle cable and steering wheel shaft from engine compartment side, and fuel pump electric connection in trunk.
Remove all radiators and hoses, pipes,fan, brake, oil lines and pump, fuel lines in engine compartment .Any cable on engine that goes from body to chassis or engine like ground cables (if I remember correctly there should be 3) or transmission cable connection.Disconnect every plug under the car.
It has been a year now so might forget but its more or less the same..

As I continue removing all I see is rust. Especially driver side footwell.It is rotten almost completely,seems to get water from a hole on the panel in front of windshield and also air conditioning hose that was torn.I had to cut most of the screws..
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Good luck. I look forward to reading about your progress. I have a 1992 as well. Why did yours stop running?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
After removing almost everything it is time to remove body.I was luck to have a forklift nearby so it was not much of a problem. You can probably lift it with 3-4 person from each side but have to lift it up to engine then pull the chassis . The question was where to lift it from. After removing panel we saw that front left side was hold up together by chassis. Best choice was to lift it from top.As soon as we lifted front left went down.Its better to put body on a car something like in the picture to move it around.

After removing the body first thing to do was strengthen weak areas.Now,I only paid for A post repair panel from yrm metal solutions because it is hard to fit.The rest,like fixing front left or skirts ,purchased sheet metal (1,2mm thick) measured piece by piece from right side then have it bend at a local shop and welded.Fits perfectly and much cheaper...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you.I was thinking it was timing chain but then it came to big end bearing.Somehow it was stuck between block and crank.It took me a lot of time to remove it from there without damaging block or crank.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I am a beginner at welding and didn't want to test my skills on the car so ı got some help for welding from outside.
For the wheel arcs what I did was before cutting rusty area in a square, I put sheet metal on arc ,tempered shape with a hammer to give it oval shape, point weld it from left to right ,up to down then complete welding.

Rust converter was a good idea.Its especially good for places hard to work. Used it with brush it gets blue and after 1-2 hours it turns in to black.Sand and clean before using it. Result was satisfactory.

(I am planning this will be a long thread so I might go fast with some processes. If you have any questions I can share everything I experienced. And also sorry for my English.)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Also supported foot well area from beneath with a thicker sheet metal. Body was pretty solid after welding finished.Pressure washed under, after drying used thinner to clean then used 5 layers of resin based under car coating(12 cans).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks.I was able to work on it for 3 months.It is a real pain.But coming to and end ,painting next weekend..
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I was thinking to paint rest,separate from body.I choosed Gelway Green. I always liked that color.I have experience painting woods but in smaller parts.First time a car.Tested my painting skills on smaller parts like fenders,it was satisfactory.I started paint from top.But when I paint varnish ı got those particles on paint, dust.What ever I did I couldn't manage to stop it. Then I noticed there was a little hole on the corner of the ceiling that was blowing dust in to the room.I used foam to close it and washed walls,floor,shrinked plastic under the door.Started allover again.Even kept water running on the floor this time.Then it was okay,nothing on paint.Looked good but still,I gave up and gave the rest to a pro because it doesn't worth effort.And of course he will do it much better.I will get them this weekend, will post pictures.

Next :move back in time to chassis ,engine,drivetrain...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Thank you for posting up all your hard work. I am sure it'll be worth it at the end. Continue to keep us posted. I can't wait to see the finished product!!
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
49 Posts
Wow! A lot of work. I moved to the desert 25 years ago. I almost forgot what rust damage can do. We have another problem here. Every bit of plastic and rubber gets hard and damaged from the heat and sun.

Can't wait to see how your project turns out.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Okay body is almost ready, in the mean time removed the engine and transmission together with help of a hoist.Then separate them on table.Build my self an engine stand. It made my job x10 easier. After removal, put the engine on stand and start disassembly alternator, belts,water pump,rockers,pistons , simply everything. Removed them carefully and put them in order for further inspection.
It seems that engine overheated couple of times before and after the pressure test made in local shop,it was loosing water in one cylinder.Fixed that with compound,tested again worked fine.Pistons and crankshaft fitted at shop.

Renewed pistons, bearings, camshaft(notice blurry areas) , rings, timing chain, gaskets, tappets,every bolt.. Valves sanded, cleaned. Rockers,rocker arms,springs,crankshaft seemed okay cleaned them with solvent.
Got every part, checked torque values and assembled . Moved on to transmission...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Transmission was doing okay so no need to open it.Plus I don't think I can put it back together once opened :) so just changed oil and filter.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top