Range Rovers Forum banner
21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
As was said, people come here to discuss problem, most cars never see any of the issues we discuss here including timing chain tensioners. If you do some rearch you will find that at some point the tensioner design has been improved making the problem more or less non-existent. Regardless lack of regular oil changes probably has a bigger impact on engine issues (all sorts). Or look for an older car with the AJV8 4.4 engine instead.

Buying second hand is never risk free but for sure look hard for any indication the car has been looked after and be ready to walk away if anything suspect.
 

·
Registered
2012 Rover Sport HSE
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thinking of buying a 2010 to 2012 L322. Interested in seeing how many miles people have driven with or without engine issues after replacing the timing belt tensioner guides on the 5.0L motor. Any data points would be greatly appreciated and please indicate whether NA or SC motor. If you had issues, what were they? Thanks.
My mechanic told me this is common in the 5.0L and had a pile of them in the shop. The problem is once they are in there, you might as well do the injectors, all new hoses, and seals, etc. I trust this guy and know he was really doing me a solid. It wasn't cheap and I'm at 88k miles on the truck. It sounds like a different beast, before was a rattle to it, and sounded like a diesel. I wish I knew this going into it as I bought it around 75k miles. Hope this helps. I'd get an extended warranty (see if they cover it) if you're worried and have a shop check it out prior to purchase or purchase one with the work just done so you don't have to worry.
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
48 Posts
I have 2010 SC. I had mine changed at 125K by the dealer (local indy shops wouldn't touch it). I have 181K now on the odo. Driving very well. I now do oil changes at every 7500 as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ventogt

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I have 2010 SC. I had mine changed at 125K by the dealer (local indy shops wouldn't touch it). I have 181K now on the odo. Driving very well. I now do oil changes at every 7500 as well.
If you don’t mind sharing, what was the dealer cost?
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322, 2013 LR4 HSE Lux, 2019 RR L405 Autobiography LWB
Joined
·
42 Posts
As was said, people come here to discuss problem, most cars never see any of the issues we discuss here including timing chain tensioners. If you do some rearch you will find that at some point the tensioner design has been improved making the problem more or less non-existent. Regardless lack of regular oil changes probably has a bigger impact on engine issues (all sorts). Or look for an older car with the AJV8 4.4 engine instead.

Buying second hand is never risk free but for sure look hard for any indication the car has been looked after and be ready to walk away if anything suspect.
Could not be more true. This place is the psychologists office where folks go to bag on problems w/vehicle. Overwhelming majority never have an issue. My 11 L322 has 162kmostly trouble free miles, never had cam chain noise issues. My son’s 13 LR4 is over 220k, it’s been bombproof vehicle except front air springs at 175k or thereabouts and of course lots of brake rotors-pads and tires.

We bought an L405 w/SC 5L when I read the 5th gen would get a BMW V8. I don’t know if that will happen since Tata bought the tooling and design rights for 5L in 20 but I’ll never buy a vehicle w/BMW powertrain again and the 5L is fantastic motor
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello,
2011 RRS 5.0 NA 51k miles
Water pump was failing and therefore labor was half way to replacing timing chain. As I plan to keep the vehicle another 5 years I went the extra mile to replace the timing chain and tensioners.
Indy Mechanic stated good call after seeing the condition of the tensioners and described them as 'very worn'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I spent the last 6 months looking to buy a 2011-2013 era RR or RRS. I looked through easily 50 Carfax reports, Spoke to dealers etc.,I test drove several that had the timing chain noise. For sure Timing chain and water Pumps were the most common big issue I would see as being part of the service records. Some being replaced as early as 30k miles. Water Pumps sometimes being replaced more than once.

I ended up purchasing a 2013 RRS autobiography, I have only had it a week but I'm happy to finally own one!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
No belt, timing chains on this engine. The only real problem was the early guides which did not have the steel rivet head for the tensioners to push on and were therefore drilled out by the vibration against the steel tensioner. The chains may stretch but the tensioner seems to have plenty of travel so unless the chain starts touching the other side of itself they should be fine. The moving guides with the problem and the tensioners can be changed by only removing the front of the engine, chain swap is a much bigger job. Lots of info on the Jag forums.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,541 Posts
Hello,
2011 RRS 5.0 NA 51k miles
Water pump was failing and therefore labor was half way to replacing timing chain.
That's interesting. The coolant pump is pretty easy to replace - I just replaced the one on my 2003 (BMW-era M62) and a few months ago, the one on my 2012 (5.0L AJ133 NA), and actually the 2003 was slightly more of a pain than the 2012.
Incidentally, the 2003 was for a coolant pump (bearing) failure. The 2012 was replaced just trying to figure out a phantom cooling problem somewhere in the cooling system - turns out the old pump was/is fine. Oh well; they're pretty cheap & easy to replace.
BUT if the cam chain/tensioners are not much more effort than the pump, I might dive into that tonight after dinner (well, not THAT quick of a job).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,370 Posts
I spent the last 6 months looking to buy a 2011-2013 era RR or RRS. I looked through easily 50 Carfax reports, Spoke to dealers etc.,I test drove several that had the timing chain noise. For sure Timing chain and water Pumps were the most common big issue I would see as being part of the service records. Some being replaced as early as 30k miles. Water Pumps sometimes being replaced more than once.
Really? I had the opposite experience when looking for a '10-'12 RR. I was only looking at examples under 100k and only looked at one online with a documented timing chain repair. None of the others did, including the one I purchased. It was in far better condition otherwise and well looked after. Mine did have the water pump replaced early when the coolant pipes were updated from the leaky original design. My guess is that the pump was fine, dealers just need to replace parts. Most of those I looked at had their front air springs replaced and other than brake jobs and random electrical issues, had few problems. For me the question has been whether to do a quick guide and tensioner update using the existing chain, or go fully monty to add chains, cam phasers, and SC coupler. At 72k and running perfectly, I'm not doing anything. If that is still true at 100k, then plan is to do a mid-life refresh and the whole job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Our 2012 Range Rover L233 was purchased with 172K miles on it and known engine problems. Once home, a pull apart of the front end revealed a failed tensioner and a slipped timing chain on the passenger (right) side of the engine. The installed tensioners and tension/guide rails were OEM, but not the original design. At some point in the truck’s history the timing gear had been replaced with newer versions of the components featuring the steel button on the guides. So how long can you expect a 5.0 NA engine to run on its original timing tensioners? Well, that depends. Somewhere around the 100K mile mark seems to be “not uncommon”, but maintenance and driving conditions are likely to better indicators of life expectancy than actual miles. Also, I have read where Land Rover may have redesigned the tensioners more than once, adding another variable into the equation.

Once we had the issues with timing sorted, more serious issues were discovered leading to a replacement block, and essentially a full drivetrain service including a newer torque converter, endless gaskets, and acquisition of fluids more precious than single malt scotch. In the end, we were rewarded with a simply marvelous vehicle. The 5.0 V8 (non-supercharged) is a fantastic engine with a good balance of power and fuel economy. Fuel economy is good at just over 20 mpg on the highway and tolerable on my in-town commute. Aside from timing gear replacement and the usual mileage based maintenance, plan on replacing the fuel injectors and maybe the two high pressure fuel pumps at some point in your “relationship” with your Rover. I admit that it was a hill to climb to get the Rover into its current condition, but there are no regrets.

The Range Rover is easily the best of all the European vehicles that we have owned. The Saabs, BMW’s, and the Audis never satisfied like the Rover does, even the S6 Avant and 540i never felt as overall competent. So, to the original poster, I highly recommend the 2010 through 2012 Range Rovers with the 5.0 V8. Those years are the last for the L322 series and it seems like Land Rover had finally sorted out most of the trouble spots with the vehicle after all those years. Do a bit of homework so that you know what you are getting onto when you purchase a Rover and it seems very unlikely that you will be disappointed.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
20 Posts
Bought my 2012 L322 SC with 90K. Replaced a lot of things including the SC belt & tensioner. Full synthetic Oil changes every 5-6K miles. She started up smooth even during cold starts after sitting in garage for days. Never heard any rattling. Sold her at 121K.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Really? I had the opposite experience when looking for a '10-'12 RR. I was only looking at examples under 100k and only looked at one online with a documented timing chain repair. None of the others did, including the one I purchased. It was in far better condition otherwise and well looked after. Mine did have the water pump replaced early when the coolant pipes were updated from the leaky original desigSome reportn. My guess is that the pump was fine, dealers just need to replace parts. Most of those I looked at had their front air springs replaced and other than brake jobs and random electrical issues, had few problems. For me the question has been whether to do a quick guide and tensioner update using the existing chain, or go fully monty to add chains, cam phasers, and SC coupler. At 72k and running perfectly, I'm not doing anything. If that is still true at 100k, then plan is to do a mid-life refresh and the whole job.
Some report 150k + miles without having to do the timing chain job. Some swear by doing oil change more often than the 15k miles as recommended and it may help avoid ever having to do the job. From everything I read it's not something that just out of nowhere fails. You will start to hear it progressively get worse. You will know the sound when you hear it. I test drove several that had a similar Ticking noise that sounded like the descriptions I read of the timing chain tensioner starting to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
As was said, people come here to discuss problem, most cars never see any of the issues we discuss here including timing chain tensioners. If you do some rearch you will find that at some point the tensioner design has been improved making the problem more or less non-existent. Regardless lack of regular oil changes probably has a bigger impact on engine issues (all sorts). Or look for an older car with the AJV8 4.4 engine instead.

Buying second hand is never risk free but for sure look hard for any indication the car has been looked after and be ready to walk away if anything suspect.
Just finding this thread. I have a 2011 RR SC Autobiography. 134K miles, 2nd owner. Have had 3 tensioner issues, each one 8 months apart. And…A/c compressor went out the same time as the last tensioner issue. Expert RR mechanics can’t figure it out. It is now undrivable and won’t crank. Carvana wouldn’t take it as a trade in. No clue what to do now. Probably the previous owner skipping oil changes caught up with it at 134K miles. New engine is $12K. I’ve got a $14K loan still on it. The parts are worth more than the whole. Have no clue what to do. Nice car, just bad luck I suppose.
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
Top