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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2007 Range Rover that would not start. The owner said it was immobilized. I had it towed home and noticed that the battery was not all the way tightened. It was raining cats and dogs when I was buying it or I would have noticed it there and tightened it and tried to start it.

I put a trickle charger on it and it said the battery was very low. So I am now charging it, but disconnected the battery in doing so. I am imagining that whatever immobilizer issues it had, disconnecting the battery will only make worse.

I have searched on immobilizer issues and I find quite a bit of discussion on the P38 but not as much on a 2007.

I looked at the FAQ for replacing the battery to see if there was a right and a wrong way but using two different browsers I only got blank pages.

This is my first RR. I hope I am already not too deep. Is there a way that the car can be put back in sync without a very expensive dealer visit? Is there any equipment or process that will synch things up and allow the car to work properly?

I am waiting til the morning when the battery is charged and will try to start it and see what the car says. Is there any process I should follow after a battery disconnect?

Thanks for any help.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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726 Posts
You don't need to disconnect the battery when charging it but removing is not an issue just a pain. When you put the battery back in make sure you secure the earth side first then the positive side.

Then try the start - with the fob near the ignition you should have no problems if there are no issues with the car.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry - I put this into the incorrect forum. Should be in the L322 forum.

Can a mod please move this? Thanks!!

And Garry - hopefully your advice translates to the L322. I will try that in the morning.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Warning one note the battery cable hooking up directions posted above.
They are back wards .

Always connect the Hot or positive /red lead first.

then connect the negative black lead.

If you dont follow this,
then while tightening the red lead and touching a chassis ground,
you will make lots of sparks and possibly damage the battery or the BCM
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #7
Well, it started. I am afraid to drive it though. The previous owner stated that you could drive it only about a block and then it would become immobilized. I guess I need to try it and see.

If that happens, I suppose I could disconnect the battery and try for one more block :)

BTW, if anyone has a 2007, I would appreciate it if you could take photos of the battery hold down parts. My car had them missing. From the parts photos, I guess that there is the traditional hold down and a long rod that hold it. That then goes into a top cross piece. There is also a squarish looking part that is called a cover. Not sure if this holds the back part of that top cross piece, but any photos and explanation would be great.

Are there any electronic parts manuals and shop manuals that are recommended? I have not done a search on those as of yet.

Lastly, there is a removeable part of the front firewall that sits in front of the battery. I am also missing that part. I am trying to find a part number for it, but so far, no luck.

The spare is also needing to be replaced. I am thinking ahead and wondering what might be a good tire for these that provides good road manners as well as 4WD capabilities.

Thanks for any help
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #8
I am not missing the part that goes in front of the battery. It actually bolts down to the side of the battery, and then wraps around the front of the battery. It is just broken. I looked under the body parts on some online parts pictures, but I am unable to find that part.
 

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The positive has a pyrotechnic bolt to disconnect the battery in event of an major accident. make sure you read up the disconnection/connection process. There are links in this forum for download the manuals. Also splurge on a BCM reader such as RSW solutions so you can access the software side of the truck. These trucks can lock up solid, so make sure you have a good battery and get the immobilizer issue fixed. good luck.
 

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Let's back up a ways here. I have been watching this thread wondering... Is this an extremely low mileage example, well maintained in excellent condition for really cheap?

What is the mileage and condition of this Rover?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #11
The positive has a pyrotechnic bolt to disconnect the battery in event of an major accident. make sure you read up the disconnection/connection process. There are links in this forum for download the manuals. Also splurge on a BCM reader such as RSW solutions so you can access the software side of the truck. These trucks can lock up solid, so make sure you have a good battery and get the immobilizer issue fixed. good luck.
Colin:
I have actually been looking around for a good reader. I saw one that seems that would definitely allow me to sync things up but it is a dealer level solution for $1200. I saw one that is pretty inexpensive and is android cell phone based and it can clear faults but I do not think it can make changes and sync the immobilizer.

I will look at what RSW solutions offers. Thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Let's back up a ways here. I have been watching this thread wondering... Is this an extremely low mileage example, well maintained in excellent condition for really cheap?

What is the mileage and condition of this Rover?
No, the car has about 120k miles so I don't consider it to be low mileage. I also can't say it has been meticulously maintained. However, it is not a mess either. I bought it from a lady that had some work done on it and then the battery died and it got immobilized. She could not get it fixed.

I bought a new battery and am waiting for the battery clamps that were missing. I looked online and I think the battery is only held by two clamps and two long screws. I have those on order.

I also found the panel that wraps around the battery on ebay. Mine was broken and what was left literally crumbled when you put any pressure on it. I am concerned that the used one I bought might do the same.

I needed to get the hood lifts and have those on order. When I get the battery in, I am going to just move it back and forth in the driveway to see if it stays running. It did not stop when I started it previously, but I did not move it. It just sat and idled. I don't know if the immobilizer only works when you try to move it?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #13
I could never find an official part number on that battery cowl panel, but there was a stamped part on it and I found one on eBay with the same part number. It was not exactly the same and had to change some openings to fit the grommets on my car but I finally got it in the car last night. The battery hold downs are going to be in today and so will get the battery in and see if it will drive up and down the driveway without getting immobilized. I am hoping it was a battery issue, but probably too much to hope for, lol!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The immobilizer only works when starting the vehicle, all it does is prevent the key from turning and stops the starter from engaging. If the engine stops while driving I would look for loose wires or possibly low fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank You Mark

I may be in good shape then.

I have been working on eliminating the initial warnings. Bulb issues, coolant level warning and spare tire pressure warning.

I plan on driving it tomorrow. I also noticed what appears to be a real issue. I have the blinking power light on the radio unit and it is stuck on the Land Rover screen.

I have been researching and I see everything from water issues to a bad amp to a bad Bluetooth unit and a bad CD.

I don't even know where the NAV CD is yet. Right now I am trying to see if there is anyplace that might be able to test my amplifier and rebuild it if needed.

Lots of little things need to be made right.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I've been having my truck shut off after driving a short distance from the house. Turns out to be a bad fuel pump. Fuel pressure was extremely low and when I pressed on the accelerator it would just shut off.

We ordered just the pump ($125) and will replace the old pump out of the housing. The Stealership wanted over $800 for the entire pump kit.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I don't know what the previous owner was talking about. It drives around just fine.

I am noticing many other issues though such as a stereo/nav system that does not work. I think both Bluetooth and Amp are gone. The Sirius module may be also.

And the remote lock/unlock on the remote do not work.

I am not sure if there are ways to get additional working remotes from anything other than the dealer, but the engine itself runs just great.

Still have much to do - and thanks for all of the help.
 

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When you pulled the battery the Key Fobs probably lost their sync, tons of info on how to re-sync them here, takes about 2 minutes to do sitting in your driveway. Most likely its just your Bluetooth module, you can try the bypass method with a pen casing, or buy a fiber optic loopback jumper (any where fro $4 to 20) so you can test multiple modules easily. The Sirius module could be bad (mine was) or jut unsubscribed, but since you won't know until you can get the fiber optic loop back up and running, concentrate on getting rid of the flashing orange light. If you can get the rest of the stereo system up and running and the Sirius radio only plays on Channel 184 its just not activated. You can use a Ford module to replace the LR one if its bad. I have the equivalent Ford number one somewhere. You can even get them activated on Ebay sometimes.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Thanks Mark
I know I have a bad bluetooth module and a bad amplifier. Might also have a bad Sirius module. Looks like water intrusion.
I already purchased used bluetooth and Sirius modules and have brought the amp in for repair. The inside of it looks like there are some burnt components but I think repairable.

I am going to get a few of those fiber loopback testers.

Do you know if the remotes HAVE to be bought from the dealer or can aftermarket ones be programmed?

Thanks
 

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You can get keyfobs on Ebay, I've bought a couple of different styles with folding blades but then you need to get the blades cut and transfer the chip over to the new FOB for the immobilizer. DON'T lose the little chip inside the FOB if you go that route. Make sure you get the correct frequency for the door lock/unlock functions for your truck, believe the 07's are 315 MHz like my 06. Remember there are two parts to the key, the immobilizer chip, and the door lock/unlock circuit board inside the FOB case, they do different things. The immobilizer chip is specific to your vehicle and you can only get a new one from LR (although the chips themselves can be cloned if you have access to a good key and the vehicle).
 
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