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I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE.. So last night I noticed that after I turned my headlights on the HDC inactive, Air Suspension inactive and a circle with an A in it appeared on the dash. I turned my car off and started it back and all those lights and alarms stopped. Today I again turned on my headlights and the same thing happened.. Has anyone else ever had this problem?!
 

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Classic signs of a weak battery.Hit up your local auto parts house and ask them to load test your battery as a confirmation.
 

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I can't remember what the circled "A" is. I'm getting too old, and can't remember jack.
 

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I get the same problem when starting mine after parking outside in the winter. The Rover doesn't like a weak battery and it seems to wreak havoc with the computer. Even "good" batteries can sometimes cause this issue, make sure you don't get a cheap brand.
 

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OP,

Please, consider this. If we're worried about the electric gremlins destroying your lead-acid battery, why not try a deep cycle battery? Purportedly designed for just this, or at the very least to withstand this phenomenon a little better, it sounds like a good investment. Just make sure it still has the cranking amps and CCA's required for the vehicle. Optima Yellow Top?

I'm tempted to say that this is alternator-related since this is occurring when the vehicle is presumably running and accessories should be running off of a nice healthy constant current and (higher) float voltage. But as with anything LR/RR, they're expensive, and for 1/10th the cost, I'd be willing to entertain the battery first. Perhaps try switching the headlight on while you are at cruising speed and see if it occurs at 2000 RPM, too.
 

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OP,

Please, consider this. If we're worried about the electric gremlins destroying your lead-acid battery, why not try a deep cycle battery? Purportedly designed for just this, or at the very least to withstand this phenomenon a little better, it sounds like a good investment. Just make sure it still has the cranking amps and CCA's required for the vehicle. Optima Yellow Top?
From a technical perspectice the MY05 isn't designed for an AGM battery like an Optima Yellow top. The intelligent charging systems didn't hit until MY10+. That being said I have run a Bosch group 49 AGM battery for going on 5 years in the MY06 without too many issues. It won't ever fully charge due to the alternator on those years, but will get you by without concern.

All that aside I personally wouldn't recommend a modern day Optima for quality reasons. Although there are about 3 people making all the AGM batteries for everyone, Interstate or even Bosch might be a more reliable brand if in thr US. Since Optima was purchased my understanding is; it's been a very different brand than the old days with reliability suffering.

I know people in the US don't care for Bosch but they have a 4 year straight exchange warranty without proration if a person needs warranty. They also provide roadside assistance if your battery dies.
 

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From a technical perspectice the MY05 isn't designed for an AGM battery like an Optima Yellow top. The intelligent charging systems didn't hit until MY10+. That being said I have run a Bosch group 49 AGM battery for going on 5 years in the MY06 without too many issues. It won't ever fully charge due to the alternator on those years, but will get you by without concern.

All that aside I personally wouldn't recommend a modern day Optima for quality reasons. Although there are about 3 people making all the AGM batteries for everyone, Interstate or even Bosch might be a more reliable brand if in thr US. Since Optima was purchased my understanding is; it's been a very different brand than the old days with reliability suffering.

I know people in the US don't care for Bosch but they have a 4 year straight exchange warranty without proration if a person needs warranty. They also provide roadside assistance if your battery dies.
Got me on a technicality. It was the first and only brand / model I could think of, and I was too lazy to Google. There are lead-acid marine batteries, though, right?
 

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Got me on a technicality. It was the first and only brand / model I could think of, and I was too lazy to Google. There are lead-acid marine batteries, though, right?
I believe there are :)

I was headed down the road of a dual battery system on the MY06 and MY12 until I discovered the differences myself.

If you see my IIDTool saves the day thread I had a hard lesson on L322 charging and AGM batteries. The MY06 alternator has a more static voltage output which caps out at 14.4v. An AGM max voltage is 14.7. The voltage level essentially is the indicator of how charged a battery is. At 14.4 it never quite gets a full charge. Its an exponential difference sp say 12v the battery is about 1/3 to 1/2 with 11v or less being the death knell of most automotive batteries.

The MY10-MY12 were designed for AGM batteries and use a regenerative charging system to throttle the engine and full charge at near 15v burts as needed to ensure both a healthier and better charged battery. My understanding is they are also more voltage sensitive systems (not like an L323 isn't picky enough).

Disclaimer: I am still learning myself. If others have better info I'm happy to be corrected but this is my current understanding.
 

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I believe there are :)

I was headed down the road of a dual battery system on the MY06 and MY12 until I discovered the differences myself.

If you see my IIDTool saves the day thread I had a hard lesson on L322 charging and AGM batteries. The MY06 alternator has a more static voltage output which caps out at 14.4v. An AGM max voltage is 14.7. The voltage level essentially is the indicator of how charged a battery is. At 14.4 it never quite gets a full charge. Its an exponential difference sp say 12v the battery is about 1/3 to 1/2 with 11v or less being the death knell of most automotive batteries.

The MY10-MY12 were designed for AGM batteries and use a regenerative charging system to throttle the engine and full charge at near 15v burts as needed to ensure both a healthier and better charged battery. My understanding is they are also more voltage sensitive systems (not like an L323 isn't picky enough).

Disclaimer: I am still learning myself. If others have better info I'm happy to be corrected but this is my current understanding.
I'm going to have to wait for the rest of the jury to form their opinions :D

0.3 V under ideal float doesn't sound like it would be a battery killer. Such a difference can be produced by terminal corrosion so slight that it's not even visible. I was about to say that it might matter more if we're talking about a 1.5 V alkaline battery. But even at such a low voltage, it must not matter much. Alkaline AA/AAA cells are 1.5 V and their rechargeable counterparts are often produced with a rated output of 1.2 V.

I think the real battery killers are not in charging voltages varying less than 1 V, but in the phantom current draws that will leave you with a dead battery in 1-2 weeks if the vehicle is not started. On a daily driver, we might never get a chance to notice the issue until it's simply not able to accept a charge anymore. We'll just keep wondering why we're going through replacements once every 2-3 years and blame it on cheap manufacturing, because it's convenient to place the blame there.

The whole regenerative / smart charging thing just sounds like another one of those multi-million dollar research projects that yielded a 1% improvement. You know, like a water-cooled alternator :LOL:
 

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You know, like a water-cooled alternator :LOL:
Yeah might be 10v or something but as you get under 11v a battery will start having a hard time retaining a charge. Do it enough, like in your phantom draw scenario and it'll be dead. We have an EE specializing in battery tech working on staff at a partners project who rattled a bunch of specs at me during my battery crisis but honestly i dont remember the exact data.

The dynamic intelligent charging is all part of the reduced emissions stuff, which in detail sounds a little counter-intuitive overall but I assume its some unicorn magic I'm not supposed to understand. Strictly charging speaking it is cool though in that it charges based upon realtime health of the battery. On a MY10-MY12 you set the battery group and specs in the CCF to give it a base algorithm to work from.

From an engineering perspective I loved the water cooled alternator. BMW wizardry at it's finest!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE.. So last night I noticed that after I turned my headlights on the HDC inactive, Air Suspension inactive and a circle with an A in it appeared on the dash. I turned my car off and started it back and all those lights and alarms stopped. Today I again turned on my headlights and the same thing happened.. Has anyone else ever had this problem?!
OP,

Please, consider this. If we're worried about the electric gremlins destroying your lead-acid battery, why not try a deep cycle battery? Purportedly designed for just this, or at the very least to withstand this phenomenon a little better, it sounds like a good investment. Just make sure it still has the cranking amps and CCA's required for the vehicle. Optima Yellow Top?

I'm tempted to say that this is alternator-related since this is occurring when the vehicle is presumably running and accessories should be running off of a nice healthy constant current and (higher) float voltage. But as with anything LR/RR, they're expensive, and for 1/10th the cost, I'd be willing to entertain the battery first. Perhaps try switching the headlight on while you are at cruising speed and see if it occurs at 2000 RPM, too.
Ok, so you seem to know a lot about LR/RR problems, so I got another problem maybe you can help me with 😁😁 My inactive suspension signal is on now. I took a look at my info on my screen and here's what it looks like. I took two pics bc it flashes back and forth from red to white..
OP,

Please, consider this. If we're worried about the electric gremlins destroying your lead-acid battery, why not try a deep cycle battery? Purportedly designed for just this, or at the very least to withstand this phenomenon a little better, it sounds like a good investment. Just make sure it still has the cranking amps and CCA's required for the vehicle. Optima Yellow Top?

I'm tempted to say that this is alternator-related since this is occurring when the vehicle is presumably running and accessories should be running off of a nice healthy constant current and (higher) float voltage. But as with anything LR/RR, they're expensive, and for 1/10th the cost, I'd be willing to entertain the battery first. Perhaps try switching the headlight on while you are at cruising speed and see if it occurs at 2000 RPM, too.
Yeah might be 10v or something but as you get under 11v a battery will start having a hard time retaining a charge. Do it enough, like in your phantom draw scenario and it'll be dead. We have an EE specializing in battery tech working on staff at a partners project who rattled a bunch of specs at me during my battery crisis but honestly i dont remember the exact data.

The dynamic intelligent charging is all part of the reduced emissions stuff, which in detail sounds a little counter-intuitive overall but I assume its some unicorn magic I'm not supposed to understand. Strictly charging speaking it is cool though in that it charges based upon realtime health of the battery. On a MY10-MY12 you set the battery group and specs in the CCF to give it a base algorithm to work from.

From an engineering perspective I loved the water cooled alternator. BMW wizardry at it's finest!
Ok so you seem to know a lot about this so I have another maybe you can help me out with. My inactive Air suspension signal is now on all the time. I took a look at my screen and this is what popped what. I took two pics bc it flashes back and forth between white and red.
IMG_20190908_123406.jpg
IMG_20190908_123359.jpg
 

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Ddm2k has some solid feedback.

Have you resolved your potential battery issue yet?

One of the primary points we're all making to you is that a low voltage battery will cause all sorts of ECM and component issues throughout the Rover. The computer modules and components are voltage sensitive and will randomly error.

Be sure you've fully charged or replaced your battery, then look at issues. That may not even be a real error or reading on your 4x4 info screen, especially if the Rover is level at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, so I'm gonna go get a new battery today, hopefully it will fix all these issues. The other thing is though the left side of the car is setting somewhat higher than the right side. So it's definitely not level.
 

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Battery = excellent. Its really worth the $150-200 for a new battery and peace of mind. Be sure to fully charge it or drive it for a while to give it a solid charge after you get it.

Ride height = 😆 might be reading accurate. Do you have an OBD tool or scanner to see if you've got any errors or faults?

If you can, do the battery first.

If you haven't already I'd try to toggle the ride height and go high, then back to standard. See if that evens it out and it corrects the issue itself. In the end it could be a voltage issue caused the leveling ecu to Bork a little or might be a sensor going bad but you have to rule out voltage issues first before knowing if the other issues are real or just temporary, caused by a weak battery.

Totally solveable and a great learning experience So don't stress. You'll sort this all out and feel great for having fixed it yourself!
 

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Ok, so I'm gonna go get a new battery today, hopefully it will fix all these issues. The other thing is though the left side of the car is setting somewhat higher than the right side. So it's definitely not level.
Please see if they will entertain placing a deep cycle battery in for you. You can be honest - "I believe I have something small partially draining my battery each night, enough that it's shortening the life of a regular battery. I just want to see if the deep cycle will last longer."
 

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Ok, so you seem to know a lot about LR/RR problems, so I got another problem maybe you can help me with 😁😁 My inactive suspension signal is on now. I took a look at my info on my screen and here's what it looks like. I took two pics bc it flashes back and forth from red to white..


Ok so you seem to know a lot about this so I have another maybe you can help me out with. My inactive Air suspension signal is now on all the time. I took a look at my screen and this is what popped what. I took two pics bc it flashes back and forth between white and red. View attachment 281053 View attachment 281054
If you really think about what's going on here, and look at the other picture of your actual vehicle, you'll find that your driver's side front ride height sensor shows you bottomed out. But in reality, the driver's front corner is higher than the rest of the vehicle. Why?

Probably because your air system has that corner aired up as much as allowable to try to raise it, but the faulty ride height sensor is still showing bottomed out. Despite being overinflated, the system still thinks it needs further adjustment. The only reason it's not, is to protect the air shock from literally exploding. Pressure sensor must be good, ride height sensor is not.

Those two pictures (your inside screen and the comparison between the two corners) are all you need to show your mechanic to have a look at what is likely a faulty ride height sensor. For each of the symptoms below, I'd use the corresponding points to start troubleshooting:

Single corner uneven = ride height sensor
Front/rear axle uneven = valve block
Entire vehicle level but height won't adjust / is at incorrect level = compressor exhaust valve or silencer blocked

*** Back on subject, please have someone look at the driver's side front ride height sensor, specifically. Replace recommended.
 

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If you really think about what's going on here, and look at the other picture of your actual vehicle, you'll find that your driver's side front ride height sensor shows you bottomed out. But in reality, the driver's front corner is higher than the rest of the vehicle. Why?

Probably because your air system has that corner aired up as much as allowable to try to raise it, but the faulty ride height sensor is still showing bottomed out. Despite being overinflated, the system still thinks it needs further adjustment. The only reason it's not, is to protect the air shock from literally exploding. Pressure sensor must be good, ride height sensor is not.
Are you sure that it's bottomed out?

I see his infotainment display showing the sensor at max height and the picture also showing that.

Is that actually how the infotainment system shows bottomed out (shouldn't it show the other direction for bottomed out as in fully compressed rather than extended)?

Not disagreeing that it isn't a ride height sensor but I've had this happen after a low voltage scenario then return to normal after a bit.
 

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Are you sure that it's bottomed out?

I see his infotainment display showing the sensor at max height and the picture also showing that.

Is that actually how the infotainment system shows bottomed out (shouldn't it show the other direction for bottomed out as in fully compressed rather than extended)?

Not disagreeing that it isn't a ride height sensor but I've had this happen after a low voltage scenario then return to normal after a bit.
You really made me think and double check my work!

From my experience, when level, and commanded to rise to Off-Road height, the green bar will raise above the supposedly even red tick marks. When commanded to lower to Access height, the green bar will drop below being in-line with the red tick marks.

The green bar is in-line with the intermediate white tick marks, which indicates the vehicle is set at Standard height, and is intentionally so. The single wheel that is out-of-whack I believe is reporting true to sensor reading for what it is intended to measure: wheel placement, as opposed to suspension height.

What I'm trying to say is, while the green bar rises during an extended (higher) suspension mode, it may seem as if the wheels are "dropping" indicating the "higher" height. But they're staying stationary. I believe that if a wheel were to actually encounter a lower spot than the other three, it would reflect as it is in the screenshot of the 4x4 display, although to a much lesser extent...
 
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