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Hi All

First post here, I am just finishing up on my audio upgrade for the 16 RRS base 8 speaker setup.

Wanted to share my experience and maybe share some information people may not be aware of!

Anyhow, I got a awesome deal on a MY16 RRS with only 7,000kms on it! Pulled the trigger, however felt the standard 8 speaker setup was not sufficient in the sense there is really no bass. So i thought of the basic idea of using a line out converter and jacking the rear speaker signal for some subwoofers....

Took it to my car audio specialist Phatt Audio Concept in Melbourne Victoria, Sam who is a expert in the field shared with me some interesting finds.

The RRS had a fairly decent audio quality for its mids and highs with no distinct distortion at higher volumes, which was a surprise to me and Sam, however upon closer inspection we found the reason why. The factory amplifier for the base 8 speaker models has a crossover set at 80hz! Which basically means the amplifier cuts anything under 80hz which is pretty much all your bass! A Line Out will not work because there is no bass signals out of the amplifier at all!

Back to the drawing board, luckily we found a company that produced a box called Mobridge, It is especially designed for the RR, which basically takes the factory optical signal converts it and distributes a full band signal out. At the same time allowing the use of all factory head unit options including audio tuning, all buttons and controls.

By this point i was already down the rabbit hole, and decided to go hard or go home since the upgrade is well beyond a simple subwoofer add.

Upon discussion we decided on using a Bit10 Audio Processor, which essentially allow you to fine tune all your audio settings such as timing corrections, crossovers, gains etc, this also came with a controller that allows you to change basic settings on the fly and have a secondary audio volume controller, and controls for subwoofer. All precise tuning such as timing, gain, phase must be done through a laptop connected to the Bit 10 through a USB connection.

After the Bit 10, came a Alpine V9 5 Channel Amp for front door splits and dual 10 inch subwoofer, a Alpine small 4 Channel Amp bridged to two outputs for the rear door speakers.

I chose to go with one of the best front splits i ever heard, which is a Hertz Mille Legend 3 Way Splits, these splits produces so much volume without distortion, because it is 3 ways you have extremely clear highs mids, and the 8 inch driver produces enough bass that for many they won't even need subs. These needed two crossovers which came with the kit.

For the rear doors i salvaged my old speakers from my other cars, which are Morel two ways. Whilst these are still awesome speakers, they definitely pale in comparison to the Mille Legends, and i can clearly see a future upgrade of going the Mille Legends 2 ways for the back seat.

All the amplifiers and crossovers were able to be fitted under the passenger seat, once the carpet is removed and the factory amplifier is removed.

Just earlier today we fired up the car after the installation of all the car speakers (minus the sub) and it blew my socks off! I have no comparison to the factory audio upgrade, but through the years of experiences, I have never found a high amount of speakers to be better then really good speakers in the doors.

Some additional info for people that may be interested in the upgrade, the doors have the blank space for the factory mid speakers, but no wiring, so speaker wires must be ran through the doors. You will need to make up speaker plates to found the aftermarket speakers onto the factory space without need to remove any of the factory trims.

All speakers are ran through the factory amplifier located under the passenger seat, a skilled auto electrician can cut these wires so they can be used easily on the new amplifier and be easily able to revert it back.

I will upload some photos soon!

Best Regards
Jason
 

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Neat. Take some pictures. So the factory amp had an 80Hz cut, but there was full range signal out of the infotainment unit (or whatever black box controls that)? Then you ran that into a box that allows to to flatten the signal?

How does the signal chain go? Say from a USB key or CD to the actual speakers?

And you said you tested it without the sub? Did you add the sub(s) in later? Seems like you could put some slim 10s or something in the boot without killing too much space.
 

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Hi Mahscoop


There is full range optical signal coming out of the headunit (infotainment), I ran that through the Mobridge processor unit, which is ready to accept the optical signal from the factory optical cable that is plug and play. No need to go behind the head unit at all.


Basically the infotainment unit still handles all actual music processing, CD, USB, Bluetooth, that signal is then transmitted to the Mobridge processor unit which preps the optical signal to your standard headunit signal ready for aftermarket AMPS, to transmit signals to the connected speakers that are attached to said amp.


As previously mentioned i added a Audison Bit 10 Processor between the Mobridge to the Amp, this allows me to custom tune the sound system, (normally this is done on a after market head unit, but in keeping the factory infotainment system I need a alternative way to edit) I saved two profiles, one is running the speakers in the car with a 50hz cut on speakers and letting the subs take care of the bass. The second setting is playing the speakers in full range mode, for when i need to remove the sub box in the boot for long camping trips.


I am adding the subs in now, it was just the first tuning process without the subs, I am adding in 2 x 10 inch slimline subs lined up against the back seat, with a quick plugin on the fly lead. This can also be moved to sit along the sides for when i may need more length in the boot.
 

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Awesome. The cabin of the RRSs are so sturdy and isolated I have to imagine it's a great application for an aftermarket system. I have the Burrmeister on my 911 and I have to say it's a bit of a waste of money because the panels hum/resonate so bad if it gets turned up, which is required since there is a fair amount of road noise. In the RRSs the cabin is so quiet and isolated it makes a lot more sense to put a better system in it. I'm just keeping the Meridian, which is good enough for me, but love seeing people put in great systems in modern cars. It's not so easy anymore!
 

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Spot on! Its chalk and cheese (maybe even truffles) in terms of audio quality right now.

Gone are the days of easy connections, with the factory head units now controlling virtually everything, after market head units are a thing of the past and its all about compatibility with factory setups.

If i had the factory Meridian maybe I would not have gone down this path, but knowing the absolute outrages pricing at after sale parts for factory audio equipment (Still remember the time when I called Mazda for a replacement cost of a factory Bose door drive ($4,300 AUD) that actually had the parts person in laughter) Its something not even worth considering, not to mention the quality on these OEM parts are no where near the per dollar value of aftermarket variations.

If only there was a way to show audio quality online!

But for anyone interested in Victoria Australia, definitely hit up Sam at Phatt Audio Concept, his work is second to none! If you want to hear the final results just let Sam know! I'll swing around since work is not too far away.

Best Regards
Jason
 

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Some updates to the build.

I ran into some issues with the mobridge unit, the sensor beeping was not coming through and the bluetooth was soft. The controls in the head unit to control those volumes were non responsive!

Anyways easy fix! Turned out in the mobridge setting there is a Range Rover Sport Gen 2 Basic and Premium, thinking that we had the basic system we selected basic. A quick email to Mobridge and they told us to switch Premium for all Range Rover Gen 2s, it worked a treat! All sounds are working and the infotainment unit volume controls are back to working! This is the Mobridge DA1 unit Optical 2 Channel, which is almost essential to get the factory head unit to work with aftermarket speakers! There is a DA3 that allows for 8 Channels and all tuning, however as per recommendation from people the combo of DA1 with a Audision Bit 10 allows for more customisation, better results, seperate subwoofer controller and still cheaper, however it is a additional largish module.

Second issue is the Hertz Mille Legend 3 ways, are just way too overpowering for the Morels, we tried to up the gains on the small 2 channel alpine amplifier to attempt to balance it, this resulted in a lot of feedback electrical humming noise, it also created strong feedback from accelerator! This was not evident in the front speakers running the Alpine PDX-V9 amps, possibly due to much better filtering components.

I have now decided to use Hertz Mille Legend 3 ways and a PDX-V9 amp for the rear speakers to balance out the audio. Coming from driving Coupes, the rear speakers were never that evident probably due to the way the cabin space was, (majority front, small rear). In the RRS it was very evident almost like if you moved the fader all the way to the front.

We will be running 2 x Hertz Energy ES250.5 10inch subs in a sealed box, my criteria for subs is tight and hard hitting. Not a big fan of bass drone or that really low long beats. 10 Inch has the advantage over the 12 Inch in this department!

Something unrelated, will be installing a BlackVue Dash cam front and rear with the hardwire parking mode as well!

Now some questions, is there a way to overcome this Battery(Energy) Management System? We have found that if you have the stereo on without the car being actually on, it will launch this message and automatically shut off everything after 3 minutes. I was hoping to be able to take the missus to a drive in cinema after this upgrade, but this will make it very hard with it turning off every 3 minutes.

Anyways my installer has being taking photos along the way, so once its all done Ill grab some off him and post it here!
 

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Thanks for the update. I can't wait for the pictures.

Not sure on the battery management system, maybe someone else will chime in. Also I'd be afraid with a big stereo like that of killing the batteries at the cinema.

Something unrelated, will be installing a BlackVue Dash cam front and rear with the hardwire parking mode as well!
How hard is that to install? You get power from the sunroof or something? I want a dashcam but always afraid to mess with aftermarket stuff because of electrical drains and so forth.
 

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Hi Mahscoop


I am getting it professionally installed.


If you are just after the front camera its not too hard, but if you are after a back camera as well (Which i think is important) It gets trickier, As you will need to run a cable through your car in the headliner to the boot.


If you do not mind having a cable dangle down from your rear view to your center console, its as simple as sticking the holder on and plugging the power in the cigarette socket in your cup holders.


Option 2 is to do a hardwired for only when you can is on, essentially they will just tap a accessory power most likely from where your front cabin lights are above the rear view.


Option 3 is what they call Parking Mode, essentially what this is, is that when your car is off the dash cam will activate and record in the case of an "event" (car moving past, impact etc etc)
This is a hardwire option and will need a additional dongle. This dongle has the power going to the dash cam and to the fuse box, the unit it self has different modes on it, record for 6 hr,8hr etc etc, but one of the critical feature is that it can detect your battery voltage and when it hits a certain voltage it will turn the dash cam off. Mine will be set at 12.5 Volts +- .1 This is to ensure your dash cam does not completely drain your batteries. There is also a On and Off switch to turn off parking mode, for example if you go on a holiday and don't want the dash cam running in your garage just turn it off!


I dont think you should be too worried about the dash cam tapping of a accessory when the ignition is on, as that circuit will only power on when the ignition is on, its fairly simple and you don't need to worry about parking mode!


But in either case its important for a professional install if you arn't just going to use the cigarette socket.


Hope that helps!


Best Regards
Jason
 

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Hey Jason, I recently bought a lightly used 2016 RR Sport and it has everything on it but the upgraded sound system. It has the basic 8 speaker setup that you have been writing about. To try to address to lack of bass I added a subwoofer in the boot and it sounds great but it didn't give me exactly what I want. I want bass coming from the door speakers. Im not an audiophile so I've tried to follow your thread, but I have a question or two if you don't mind.

1. The Mobridge DA-1 "restores" the bass output that the factory amplifier has cut out?

2. If that is the case, that's probably what I want. Did you say that adding the Mobridge unit is a relatively easy plug and play into the existing factory amp, which I believe is located under the passenger seat? Will it fit under there with the existing amp or so I need to find some other place to fit it?

3. Is it your opinion that adding the Mobridge will give me what I want, which is bass (or more bass) coming from the speakers in the front of the vehicle? I've looked around the internet and I can't find a beginner's explanation of what exactly the Mobridge DA-1 does. Your explanation was the clearest but I still didn't follow your explanation 100%.

Thanks very much.

Seward
 

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I'm in the same boat with the base sound system 400w is what the topix tells me. This is my 1st RRS so I didn't think I needed to research the audio options considering the vehicle but I just want to add a aftermarket sub. If the factory amp cuts off anything below 80hz what signal is being used to input an aftermarket amp to power the sub and does anybody know if a mobridge can be used with keeping the factory amp powering the door speakers as normal but use the mobridge for the amp for a jl audio sub
 

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Hi,
I've used a Mobridge to run my headunit through a Focal amp set up... sounds incredible.... but.... I don't seem to be able to get the Bluetooth headphones for the rear TVs to connect anymore. Is this possibly connected to the diverting of the output into the Mobridge?
It seems strange though as the headphones used to automatically connect, and now they just flash (which means they can't find a source)
Any thoughts?
 

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If the factory amp cuts off anything below 80hz what signal is being used to input an aftermarket amp to
Sorry to resurrect an old thread.

So I just ran a frequency response test from here:
The Ultimate Bass Test | Ultra Low Frequency Range Test

I was clearly getting signal from 30 Hz upward. It wasn't strong, but it was there and audible.

(note MY17 HSE w/ base system)

The mObridge solution is just too expensive. 600 for the device, a grand (or more) for a 6 channel amp. Then speakers.

I'm thinking about cheapin' out with a decent quality line out convertor and a 2 channel amp and then wiring up a factory sub that way.

The factory mids and highs sound like ass - they rattle and pop. I suppose I could run the factory meridian door speakers off the existing leads from the factory amp. Is that a noticeable improvement in quality? I don't want to fabricate a bunch of speaker adapters and run more wires through the door. I'm fine with running stuff under the carpet. Thoughts anyone?
 
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