[MarkHansen]

Why isn't there a standardized methodology for testing and maintaining the Air Suspension on the L322? I have been tracking this SOB all summer. I have learned a lot of unneccessary crap;

Given; New Air pump compressor and new filter new muffler

Defaults to Extended mode, like it detects an obstruction. I'm driving down the road with a fkg boner. It doesn't release pressure from the Front valve nor the Rear Valve.
How does it detect an obstruction?
Interior Air Suspension Control Switch LED lights up with Key On. Turns off with Engine On.

WTF is a T4? Is it necessary?

1. Disconnect the battery both posts
2. Isolate blue with paper sticker Front Air Line on Reservoir Valve Block
a. Air releases from the reservoir, however still in Extended mode.
i. Go to Front Valve block release air from both sides (yellow RH Black LH) Front end lowers
3. Isolate rear blue line on Reservoir valve, releases air, but does not lower
4. Isolate reservoir release Air from res valve block. (Black)
i. rear lowers when air released from rear valve block from the rear wheel well, (yellow and black) (PITA)
5. Lowered all the way down as low as it would go
6. Reinstalled front valve block and RVB and Reservoir and tightened hose connectors
7. Reconnected the battery both posts clean and shiny
8. Key On Air Suspension Control LED lights up
9. Key On Engine On ASC LED turns off
10. Key ON Engine ON LED turns off air pump runs for 3 secs. Then shuts off (All corners maximum low)
11. Un plugged and JUMPED Air Pump Compressior with outside 12v source, ran it for a minute, did not raise, however;
a. reconnected with active battery from L322 system via the harness plug
b. key on engine on LED on, no action LED turns OFF
c. key on engine on LED off in gear and moving forward low speed, the compressor kicked in and ran for a couple minutes.
d. compressor continued to run and shut off once I had another fckg boner (extended mode)
e. both LF and LR are about an inch higher than RF and RR.
f it holds air in this state ad infiniteum.

What a frustrating system to work with. I'm at the point where I want to throw parts at it but which ones?

vote here

individual height sensors?
Air Suspension Control Module?
Valve blocks

or can it be the resevoir valve block pressure sensor?

 

[Aaronv09]

There is a standardized methodology... If you know what you're doing. Curious what unnecessary crap you've learned because there is a lot... And I mean a lot... like half of the posts on this forum lot, on the air suspension (EAS) and how it works.

You cannot run the comp while the solenoids are closed and expect it to raise. The ride height selector shuts off because it's detecting a fault.
99% of threads will tell you to get the codes read. I will do the same. We can pinpoint the problem pretty fast if you have the codes.

You say you put in a new compressor. What was the old compressor model and what is the new one.
What does your 4x4 info screen say? All the wheels are the same height?
Are the height sensors all in tact? Did you jack the car up recently?
What work have you done recently?
How long have you owned the car?
Throwing parts is the long and expensive way to fix a LR... You'd have better luck praying

 

[jj3480372]

Interested

 

[MarkHansen]

There is a standardized methodology... If you know what you're doing. Curious what unnecessary crap you've learned because there is a lot... And I mean a lot... like half of the posts on this forum lot, on the air suspension (EAS) and how it works.

You cannot run the comp while the solenoids are closed and expect it to raise. The ride height selector shuts off because it's detecting a fault.
99% of threads will tell you to get the codes read. I will do the same. We can pinpoint the problem pretty fast if you have the codes.

You say you put in a new compressor. What was the old compressor model and what is the new one.
What does your 4x4 info screen say? All the wheels are the same height?
Are the height sensors all in tact? Did you jack the car up recently?
What work have you done recently?
How long have you owned the car?
Throwing parts is the long and expensive way to fix a LR... You'd have better luck praying

I bought the Mark III at the beginning of May. It has a whole list of problems. One is the head unit only shows the LAND ROVER screen, and when I go to the default, it doesn't recieve any data from any source, so therefore no guidance.

Ha. I threw the old compressor into the bin. I didn't write down the brand. It was pumping, but not enough pressure.
all sensors in tact, and I have had the RR up on a jack several times.
Just did brakes, pads rotors, fluid. The lower front suspension arms and lower ball joint, as well as tie rods

Like I noted, the compressor shut down after 3 secs when the air was out of the system
I jumped the compressor with an outside 12v and ran it for 60 seconds.
I then connected the compressor plug, and compressor filled the system, but once I was moving. it raised all the corners as a result.

 

[Aaronv09]

The old compressor likely was shutting off because it wasn't building pressure.
The new compressor needed to match the old or you need to flash the right firmware. Amk or Hitachi. EAS does weird things if not.
If you have adjusted anything and the sensors are reading out greater than 10mm of where they were programmed the EAS thinks something is going on.
Likely need to recalibrate.
All of this and the head unit can be better diagnosed with a capable LR scan tool. The iid can even recalibrate. Highly suggest if you want to keep the ride for a while

 

[MarkHansen]

capable LR scan tool?

 

[Aaronv09]

You can't use a generic obd2 scanner. You need a specific reader that can read full codes like the dealer tool, gap iid

 

[MarkHansen]

ok looks like I have to buy another scanner, meaning I have a couple more generic varieties.

 

[MarkHansen]

IID scanners are hard to come by. $600+ on ebay.

 

[diff]

Mark. Are you saying that the new air compressor never worked since you put it. I have also read that the amk that replaces the hitachi needs reprogramming to work properly. 0ur 06 has an amk from 2013 and still works.! I really have to assume yours was already updated to an amk as not likely the hitachi would have lasted. (Unless you found a nos hitachi). Perhaps double check that all arms are facing the correct way on the height sensors as I got our 06 with one backwards and crazy result which drove me wacky (so I kept looking for an issue) as I am waiting to buy a kit from rsw. Solutions.
9

 

[MarkHansen]

Mark. Are you saying that the new air compressor never worked since you put it. I have also read that the amk that replaces the hitachi needs reprogramming to work properly. 0ur 06 has an amk from 2013 and still works.! I really have to assume yours was already updated to an amk as not likely the hitachi would have lasted. (Unless you found a nos hitachi). Perhaps double check that all arms are facing the correct way on the height sensors as I got our 06 with one backwards and crazy result which drove me wacky (so I kept looking for an issue) as I am waiting to buy a kit from rsw. Solutions.
9

 

[NorCal RR]

Any work on the EAS without a code reader that can read Land Rover EAS codes, height data, perform resets, etc., is pretty difficult. For that matter, the same is true of RR ownership in general. The Gap IID is available for less than $600 direct from GAP, its a great tool. In my experience, your mileage may vary, air suspension problems are almost always air leaks although the L322 can have air exhaust problems (well covered on this forum). Electronics and air compressors rarely crap out unless jacked with (sensors) or leaks ignored (kills the compressor).

 

[terrybaileyqb]

Damned, I am still fcking with the EAS, among other things with the RRSC. I have owned this NO RUST 200k 2006 RRSC for a year and my spread sheet has about 30 entries describing a wide variety of fixes, and that being said, I just went over $3,000 in total ownership/maintenance cost. After installing new height sensors, I was getting 30 MPH fault, and then bing, bing, bing, (I once counted 17 cycles in 5 miles) The EAS would engage front and rear valve blocks (the valve block clicking can be heard as they purge) drop to the bump stops, every fcking time. I will not be defeated. Not once in my ownership have the EAS control lights functioned properly. They only illuminate with Key On Engine Off, making a height direction selection, they stay illuminated during start Key On Engine On and engaging a gear and moving slow, they turn off. It rained hard last week out here in Bucks county. The compressor stopped working. I pulled it out and found about 1/8 cup of water in the components. The desicrant was moist and had a small rust stain. No signs of water anywhere else in the vehicle. I blew air though the lines, but no more water. My compressor is the Hitachi variety. I installed another new compressor from Ebay. I did the + and - reset. The bags inflate. Yes. The 30 mph Fault bing bing bing is still there, and after surpassing 30 MPH it drops to the bump stops, and yes, I can hear the valve blocks cycling (clicking rhythmically) as they purge and drop back to bump stops. Cycle back to Key On and Engine On or Off the EAS Lights up. Key On Engine On the EAS Control illuminates after an up/down/access selection is made. EAS selection made before gear selection, then the EAS LEDS turn off. Moving slowly, the BEAST inflates within a 1/4 mile. The EAS has no idea what level it is adjusting to, even though it may cycle through "Vehicle Lowered" or "Normal Vehicle Height Only" I have found if I let the bags fill at the beginning of a start up cycle, then pull the EAS fuse from the dash, the RR SC will stay inflated and I can be merrily on my fcking way, without any messages, bing bing bing or interference from the EAS. . The bags are Arnott and are dated 2015. They don't seem to leak, because once inflated the RRSC maintains it's height with the fuse pulled. I am finally cornered into a tool purchase. Please note, my Harmon Kardon POS head unit MOST system has never worked, even though it does generate a fiber optic light on one side. Yes I have tried the work around, but it hasn't panned out. I have yet to solve the p2099 p2097, 0171, 0174 codes, and the seemingly high Long Term Fuel Trims, which average around 15-18. The Fuel Trims do makes adjustments to snap throttles and accelerations. The codes are both sides. Fuel Pressure is 72, Key off. 33-35 idle and 40's to 60's on acceleration.

 

[Rhythminblues]

Any work on the EAS without a code reader that can read Land Rover EAS codes, height data, perform resets, etc., is pretty difficult. For that matter, the same is true of RR ownership in general. The Gap IID is available for less than $600 direct from GAP, its a great tool. In my experience, your mileage may vary, air suspension problems are almost always air leaks although the L322 can have air exhaust problems (well covered on this forum). Electronics and air compressors rarely crap out unless jacked with (sensors) or leaks ignored (kills the compressor).

Not to hijack but I am also steep into a suspension saga, just reading through this thread. What exactly did you mean by this statement? “Electronics and air compressors rarely crap out unless jacked with (sensors) or leaks ignored (kills the compressor).”

 

[NorCal RR]

Not to hijack but I am also steep into a suspension saga, just reading through this thread. What exactly did you mean by this statement? “Electronics and air compressors rarely crap out unless jacked with (sensors) or leaks ignored (kills the compressor).”

That the root of most problems with EAS is a leak. Compressors die when they have to compensate for a leak for too long. A system that doesn't leak, doesn't really work the compressor very hard. The ECU's rarely give up and height sensors rarely do unless they get flipped inside out from lifting the body until wheels are dangling, fully extending the suspension. When a fault comes up and the suspension drops, many people assume a software malfunction when usually its doing what its programmed to do and there is a leak somewhere.

 

[Rhythminblues]

That the root of most problems with EAS is a leak. Compressors die when they have to compensate for a leak for too long. A system that doesn't leak, doesn't really work the compressor very hard. The ECU's rarely give up and height sensors rarely do unless they get flipped inside out from lifting the body until wheels are dangling, fully extending the suspension. When a fault comes up and the suspension drops, many people assume a software malfunction when usually its doing what its programmed to do and there is a leak somewhere.

Ahhh, the height sensor info is valuable! Thanks. What is the condition when they invert?

 

[NorCal RR]

Ahhh, the height sensor info is valuable! Thanks. What is the condition when they invert?

Installed backwards, an impact, lifting the body to the point where the wheels are off the ground, you are hanging by the shock struts, really easy to flip the sensor when fully extended. The sensors should form a V shape pointing to the outside of the RR.

 

[terrybaileyqb]

OMFG my front sensors V pointing inward. I'm jumping on it.

 

[4foothaystacks]

OMFG my front sensors V pointing inward. I'm jumping on it.

Nice man! Good find! I’m checking mine when I get home!

 

[terrybaileyqb]

Turns out only my left front was pointing in. No more BING BING BING 30MPH! No rear bump stops?
Just drove it about 20 miles. was a slight little left / right, right / left lean, but it seems to be working and driving straight now. god bless you, NorCAL. now to fix the hundred other things that are wrong with it.