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Discussion Starter #1
Today I finally changed the glazed alt. belt as it would slip under load and adjusting the mounts didn't fix it. This would seem like a very simple task that anyone could do and the belt switch went well. (under 10 minutes)

But when I went to start the truck to test the new belt, it wouldn't start. Everything is still connected as I didn't touch anything else besides the bolt for the generator. The fuel pump is working as I can hear it and I have power for all else, the engine turns over fine. I did test a little further and found that both the positive and negative terminal on the coil have power. (meaning if I ground a test light on a ground source and test both terminals the test light will light up.) So that would mean that both leads going to the spark module on the distributor have power going to them?

How can a simple belt change bring on Murphy's Law.....ugh.
 

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I dont think a timing light is fast enough. that signal flickers on off about 10 times a second idling so the light wouldnt have a chance to go out that fast. you need a meter, preferably digital

check the distributor area for wiring that you could have loosened up
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't use a timing light, just a basic test light. My multimeter isn't working, must of sat to long.

This has me livid as I didn't bump or touch anything, just loosened the adjustment bolt to replace the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I replaced the coil and nothing.....all connections are good and tight. I can not believe that changing a freakin belt has lead to this. So much so, as soon as I fix this it is being sold or junked.
 

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I replaced the alt. belt on my 90 RRC and two days later my Amplifier module on the side of the dist.
went bad. Not sure if they were related at all or just a coincidence. I took the
Amplifier module to Advnc Auto Parts and they were able to test, to confirm it was bad.
Was a pricey but easy fix.
 

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Don't assign causality to coincidence. Just because one thing follows another doesn't mean that the first thing caused the second. Changing a belt shouldn't have anything to do with making the ignition fail unless you knocked some wire loose or broke one.

Did you test your coil before replacing it? Look up the circuit resistance tests for a coil on the internet and perform them. Check that your spark plug wires haven't failed or come loose, and the same for your coil lead. Check the amplifier connection on the side of the distributor. Check the electrodes in your distributor cap, and check your rotor. Beg, borrow, or buy a working multi-tester. Check that the spark plug wires fire the correct spark plugs using the diagram in the repair manual or in RAVE. Don't take any shortcuts or leap to any hasty conclusions.

Wow, rereading this, I sound way too preachy. I don't mean to.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update: Back to normal

Ok I guess I can thank the previous owner(s) for their lack of skill installing an upgrade. It appears that when the Ignition Module wire harness was upgraded to the 3 prong type, they failed to bend the tiny metal tabs on the metal inserts for the plastic plug. So when I moved the wires out of the way to change the belt, the metal inserts pulled right out of the back of the plug. Seeing that the plug is covered with a rubber boot and that I tested for current to the mid-way plug I wrote that part off as being good. We even went as far as sticking a probe into the wires there close to the plug and all seemed well, yes this is a big no-no but there wasn't much else to check.

Also, I found out that one MUST use OEM parts for the ignition system as a rotor from Autoparts Warehouse didn't even come close to providing a good spark as well as the Lucas part. Truck runs like it did before, not perfect but well enough to sell. Yes it is on craigslist!
 
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