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Discussion Starter #1
Been chasing ignition issues on my 95 SWB. Had a crank no start situation that was the result of a faulty distributor rotor. Replaced with genuine LR part and it ran great for about an hour this after noon then started misfiring. If I let the truck sit for a few minutes turned off it would run great for a few minutes after restarting. I limped the truck home this way.

I had only put around 20 miles on the new rotor so I'm not inclined to think that's the issue. Especially with it restarting and running perfect for a few minutes after resting. This leads me to think it's an ignition amplifier. After installing a Lucas replacement it ran fine at lower rpms but wouldn't rev past 3200 under load. Massive loss of power.

I have a NOS bonded rotor arriving tomorrow and will swap out the riveted genuine. At that time I'll check and adjust the air gap.

Any other thoughts?




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Discussion Starter #3
I have replaced the following:

Distributor cap
Distributor rotor (twice)
Plug wires
Spark plugs
Ignition amplifier
Fuel filter
Idle air control valve


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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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372 Posts
one more thing - after replacing IACV and similar... did you disconnect battery / and touch + and - together to clear the ECU stored values? My ECU didnt accept the IACV until i did that. Prob not your solution, but just covering bases...

Problem sounds to me like fuel starvation somewhere? Like if you start it, let it run and idle... will it idle all day? or eventually die? If you have loss of power only when engine is under load, i would lead to believe that the problem is somewhere in the fuel delivery.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I experienced similar symptoms with a failing ignition coil. It would run fine until the coil became hot to touch and create a misfire underload. Otherwise, I agree with grnole regarding fuel starvation.

Also, (not trying to be disrespectful) did you install the new fuel filter properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good suggestions.

I did not touch battery leads together but will do that. Doesn't hurt, right?!

Yes, the filter was installed correctly.

It could be a coil. What's the best way to check it?


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You can check the resistance with a multimeter. In you case, I would simply check the temp of the coil with your hand once the misfires begin. If it is really hot to touch, it is failing.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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pick up coil, it is inside your distributor. when it gets hot it shorts to ground, worse case scenario engine dies dues to lack of spark and re-starts when it cools. all of these are coils which are exposed to continuous heat cycles. at 22 yrs of age they are bound to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good suggestions. I will use the RAVE manual and check these components both when cold and again when hot.


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I've had similar issues from time to time. My truck behaves in similar ways when my O2 sensors need replacing and I do not always get an error code. In fact, I used NTK last time and one of them was bad out of the box...it took my mechanic a while to figure out what the problem was since I had already put in *new* O2 sensors. Truck would run good for 35 minutes, and then it would lose power, backfire, and stall out.
Best of Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Installed new Bosch coil and bonded distributor rotor and truck seems to run great. Put about ten miles on it today. Don’t trust it to go farther. I’ll use it to run around town tomorrow.

So far so good!


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Discussion Starter #14
I’m a AAA Premiere member but have already used my allotment of tows for the year. Must wait til January for my membership to renew.


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