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I know I am very late to the party, but I had the same experience with my '95 RRC LWB. It ran great for 28-35 minutes, then it would lose power and stumble like a bum. It turned out to be a bad (Brand New NTK) O2 Sensor that could only be detected by my mechanic.
 

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I'm dealing with the exact same issue on my 89' RRC. Runs great for the first 5 miles then once it heats up to normal temp it stumbles|shuts down under load. Hunting this issue I've replaced the coil, alternator, fuel pump, coolant temp switch, O2 Sensors, the final part i'm going to throw at her is going to be the ignition amplifier. Just ordered one should be here tomorrow. Stay tuned I'll let you know if this is the fix...... By the way, looks like I've got to pull the whole distributor out to swap the ignition amplifier. Anyone have any tips on doing this. Looks like that bolt to remove the dizzy is going to be a bitch to get at. Any advice for this backyard hack mechanic? :)
 

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The distributor plate bolt is easy enough with a cranked ring spanner or very lightly cranked ring open combination spanner. you can just turn it about 15degree and lift off spanner to move backward, it sounds more awkward than it is in realty.

From memory you can use 9/16 or 14mm unless I'm recalling something else
 

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Great thank you soo much RRLONDON. What else needs to be removed to access? Top Radiator hose? Anything else? Also so sorry to bombard you with questions....but.... do I need to find top dead center of the #1 cylinder? Any special advice regarding re-timing her? Can I just mark where the dizzy sits in the block and mark the rotor arm and yank it out and put it back in the same location without having to mess with shooting the timing with a light?
 

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You may get it out without the cap and leads on if you get the top hose pulled out the way, but it's right where you need to go so maybe easier to pull hose off. You'll soon see as you try it.

Yes, put motor at TDC for number 1 before you start.

As you remove and refit distributor, the drive gear is a scewed tooth so as you withdraw the unit you'll see the rotor arm rotate as the gears are pulled past each other.
Which means that as you go back in with it you have to start the rotor arm at the wrong place as it'll turn when pushing the distributor right down to correct positioItsn.
It's probably helpful to photo the top of distributor with cap off just before you remove as reference.

Timing, you can more or less set it the same by reference to the position of the advance rretard vac unit. It's rudimentary and "out in the field method" but if you put your fingers between the vac unit and something near to it you can check it before you start and put it back the same, photo again would help you.

Common mistake is to end up with rotor one tooth out on putting it in. That would cause you to rotate the distributor to correct the mistake, so pay careful attention to initial position of the rotor before removal and putting a bit of tape on distributor body as reference to rotor position will help you.

If rotor ends up in wrong position first try, you only have to lift the distributor about 1 1/2 inch to disengage the gear, rotate it one tooth and try again.

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Top hose can stay in place. The dizzy might also be a little tight when pulling. Don't be shy with it. Dont pull on the rotor arm. The dizzy bolt is a little nasty to get to but doable with patience. Might also be useful to have one pf those cheap magnets of a pole. Saved me a few times.
Make sure No1 is at TDC on the compression stroke not exhaust.
When going to all that trouble I reinforce my advice to relocate the amplifier. Plenty of sink paste etc on a new amp will only work for so long. Relocation removes the amp from all direct heat sources. (y)
 
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