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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I just purchased a 94 LWB in Alpine White. The head gaskets are blown and the lifters make a little noise after initial startup. I would like to use this thread to discuss repair options and seek advice from other enthusiasts. I plan to perform a head gasket and cam/lifter replacement myself.

My current sticking point is deciding which cam to install. I can't seem to find specs on the stock cam so it's difficult to decide which aftermarket option will work. I live in California and want the truck to pass our emissions test, but also want to take advantage of the opportunity to install a cam that might have some performance advantages. I would be very interested to hear what other people have installed.

Thanks in advance for the info!

Here's a photo of the new truck!

282380
 

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Nice truck.

Performance and RRC should not appear in the same sentence.

How many miles on the engine?

i suspect you would be better off pulling the engine and sending it for a complete rebuild or going with a short block.

Good luck.
 

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Stock cam isn’t impressive, that’s all you really need to know. I’ve heard the wedge shop’s cams (Erson) are good, extra grunt down low and up high.
 

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Hi there,

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the club! The paint on that still looks brilliant!
I'm also in California. I got my RRC in April 2018, and discovered it had a blown head gasket when I went to get it smogged.
I rebuilt the top end in my free time over a 7-8 week span. I didn't pull the cam, so unfortunately I can't speak to that.

However, with 175k miles on the engine I did replace both heads and also replaced the coolant hoses, water pump, coolant temperature sender, thermostat, push rods, lifters, belts, timing chain, front oil seal, ignition coil, cap + rotor, and had the radiator re-cored. In case you decide to go with new heads, Atlantic British offers them fully set-up with new valves for a decent price:


I easily spent three grand on parts. After all was said and done, I had a Land Rover specialist to go over the work. There was also a recurrent check engine light after the rebuild, because the timing, throttle position, and base idle have to be in harmony for the engine to run properly. For me, it's tedious enough that I'd rather have someone else do it.
BTW just in case you don't have it, the RAVE manual is essential. There's a 1987-1992 edition that covers the 3.9L and 4.2L engines, and a 1995 edition which might have information for your 1994 that the 1987-1992 edition doesn't:

http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/rangerover/Range_Rover_Manual_1992.pdf
 

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A couple of things you should do.
go to your local magazine shop and buy some rover mags from England, you 'll get a lot from the ads.
check out the following web sites for English aftermarket kits; parts.
don't snub Rovers North or Alantic British, + the others I forget.

https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Range-Rover-Classic-Engine-Components-V8--m-3341
http://www.v8engines.com/homepage.htm

geneo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback.

The truck has 190K miles and it doesn't appear to have had and major engine work. The previous owner provided extensive service records that show a cooling system rebuild in 2017. It is likely this is when the head gasket started to leak and he was attempting to figure it out.

I plan to pull the motor and fully inspect. At this point I really don't have the time or funds to do a full rebuild or replace with a short block unless the wear suggests it is required. If that's the case I will certainly look into my options.

I have been scouring Euro parts suppliers and there are tons of options. What I really need to know is what cam can I get away with that will still pass CA emissions. The search continues.

I will update this thread with details of what I decided to use as the build continues.
 

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Thanks for the feedback.

The truck has 190K miles and it doesn't appear to have had and major engine work. The previous owner provided extensive service records that show a cooling system rebuild in 2017. It is likely this is when the head gasket started to leak and he was attempting to figure it out.

I plan to pull the motor and fully inspect. At this point I really don't have the time or funds to do a full rebuild or replace with a short block unless the wear suggests it is required. If that's the case I will certainly look into my options.

I have been scouring Euro parts suppliers and there are tons of options. What I really need to know is what cam can I get away with that will still pass CA emissions. The search continues.

I will update this thread with details of what I decided to use as the build continues.
Have you done a compression check? That was the downfall of my motor. It ran smoothly, didn't burn a drop of oil, passed CA smog with flying colors, but oooh boy was it gutless.

I'd be hesitant to sink money into a cam, because I did exactly that and was amazed at how little it did. I pulled the old cam and some of the lobes were almost worn round, meaning hardly any valve lift, and there was tremendous slack in the timing chain. I though "AHA! here's my problem! It'll run so much better now!" A new hot cam from the wedge shop and a new timing set later, it literally ran EXACTLY THE SAME (but with a cool lopey sounding idle). I was staggered, how could it have done NOTHING?????? A compression test confirmed my fears, and nothing short of a rebuild would cure that.
 

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I'm building a 4.2 currently and will replace my 3.9 with it as the need arises (205K miles so far). I don't have the specs on the stock cams, but without the benefit of improved induction and exhaust I think a new stock cam and lifters will give the desired performance. My experience with high mileage Rover V8s has been that new composite head gaskets, a radiator cleaning/rodding, and properly tuned ignition gets you the most bang for the buck - unless of course the engine was frequently over-heated or poorly maintained.

I like the Elring gaskets. Be sure to get new head bolts when you put them on. If you do get a new cam/lifters/timing chain set make sure you threadlock the cam bolt (top pulley).

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Have you done a compression check? That was the downfall of my motor. It ran smoothly, didn't burn a drop of oil, passed CA smog with flying colors, but oooh boy was it gutless.

I'd be hesitant to sink money into a cam, because I did exactly that and was amazed at how little it did. I pulled the old cam and some of the lobes were almost worn round, meaning hardly any valve lift, and there was tremendous slack in the timing chain. I though "AHA! here's my problem! It'll run so much better now!" A new hot cam from the wedge shop and a new timing set later, it literally ran EXACTLY THE SAME (but with a cool lopey sounding idle). I was staggered, how could it have done NOTHING?????? A compression test confirmed my fears, and nothing short of a rebuild would cure that.
I will certainly do a compression check before pulling the motor. This is my fifth Classic so I'm very familiar with how lethargic the motors are. Not too interested in making a ton of power, just want to make sure everything is working as it should and it's efficient.
 

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I have a '93 LWB with the 4.2L and have been contemplating a new cam for a few years now, but so far the head gaskets are holding and it's running fine, so I'll wait....

But I have read NUMEROUS testimonials on this site that a new cam with mildly modified profile will do wonders to liven up the motor, so much so that the consensus I've compiled says don't bother with a 4.6 swap if your engine is running fine and a cam is all it needs.

WHAT SUCKS IS THE LOSS OF ALL PREVIOUS DATA THAT USED TO BE AVAILABLE UNDER THE "SEARCH" FUNCTION ON THIS SITE. This really blows and will force a lot of use to look elsewhere on the web for the historical data that used to be available here. For example, I used to be able to search "crane cam" and come up with a dozen threads from users that installed a crane cam, with their build descriptions, cam part #, what to look out for, driving results, etc. All gone now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a '93 LWB with the 4.2L and have been contemplating a new cam for a few years now, but so far the head gaskets are holding and it's running fine, so I'll wait....

But I have read NUMEROUS testimonials on this site that a new cam with mildly modified profile will do wonders to liven up the motor, so much so that the consensus I've compiled says don't bother with a 4.6 swap if your engine is running fine and a cam is all it needs.

WHAT SUCKS IS THE LOSS OF ALL PREVIOUS DATA THAT USED TO BE AVAILABLE UNDER THE "SEARCH" FUNCTION ON THIS SITE. This really blows and will force a lot of use to look elsewhere on the web for the historical data that used to be available here. For example, I used to be able to search "crane cam" and come up with a dozen threads from users that installed a crane cam, with their build descriptions, cam part #, what to look out for, driving results, etc. All gone now.
Yeah, that's what I'm learning. I think an upgraded cam will be the way to go.

Really disappointing that all the reference materials and legacy threads are no longer available. I wish the site moderators made the "classic" version of the site available.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quick update on the engine refurb. After removing the heads #1 and #3 cylinders show signs of being steam cleaned. After consulting a few Rover gurus it seems like the consensus is that their is something more wrong beyond the head gasket and is more likely a cracked block/liner on #3. I can't do a full rebuild of the engine right now but I might be able to swing a replacement 4.2 core that has a good block and just needs head gaskets. I prefer to have keep the truck running rather than sitting dead while I pull the parts and services needed to do a proper rebuild of the original 4.2. I'll be posting a want ad for a 4.2 in the classifieds section. Seriously disappointing news but that's how it goes sometimes.

283054
 

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Have you had a detailed look at the head from that side to make sure of water jacket integrity?

Sometimes you get the block chased down as it's considered the prime suspect, only to find a compromised head causing the original problem.

The block history on these often points the way of compromise, but it's not always the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Have you had a detailed look at the head from that side to make sure of water jacket integrity?

Sometimes you get the block chased down as it's considered the prime suspect, only to find a compromised head causing the original problem.

The block history on these often points the way of compromise, but it's not always the culprit.
No I have not but I will. That's a very good point.
 
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