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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Long time lurker and have managed to fix most problems by just reading other threads but not this time.

I had originally thought I had found the fault to be my Serpentine belt tensioner but after putting a new one on today I am still hearing this noise that makes my Rangy sound like a pile of junk driving down the road. So not nice :(

The Rangys a 97 4.6 HSE and the sound can only be described as what you would hear from a woman who likes to wear too many bangles (jangle jangle)

It's worse on acceleration but still there on tickover. Sort of like if I had a loose exhaust clamp and it was rattling.

I did look for play in the other pulleys while I had the belt off but found nothing unusual. The sound itself travels really well so it's near impossible to pin point.

Anyone experienced this and able to offer any advice

Thanks in advance
 

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Hi,

I had a metallic rattle from the front of my engine and it turned out to be a failing fan.
The metal center was starting to disintegrate because I had used a non-original replacement viscous clutch which caused the fan to wobble around.


Sigi
 

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Have you tried running the Engine without the Belt on for a few seconds? as would help eliminate the Water Pump, Viscous Fan, Air Con etc.
Have you checked the Idler Pulley Bearing? as I had to change mine a while back as was causing a "knocking" noise.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for those suggestions. The fan could be a posibility as there is a little play. Are they dificult to change and require any special tools?
 

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Large wrench, a quick smack on the wrench with a hammer and spin the fan and clutch off the water pump. From there you can disassemble and replace the clutch with standard tools. If I recall they are 10mm bolts but it has been a long while since I have messed with one.
 

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Seeing you are in the UK, phone the blokes at Difflock...have they got the tool for you 8-0= `)
http://shop.difflock.com/viscous-wrench-p-97.html
I paid a king's ransom to get a set into Aus. .... but it was well worth it, believe me!!
cheers
 

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Not sure what a "standard wrench" is...
The Difflock tools are quite thin but very strong...the holes in one spanner are there to fit over the flange bolts to clamp the shaft while the other loosens the nut... they are also very handy for removing the flange off the diff and VC unit for the same reason `)
Now one can, with some effort, 'smack" (as in 'percussive persuasion') a spanner and hope the lock nuts loosen....but you can't retighten with any precision after the job is finished simply by giving it a smack in the opposite direction... unless of course I would suppose one is "into" smacking/spanking 8-0= :oops: :twisted:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, had a look at the fan today and there is most definitely some play (approx 5mm) going on. Is that normal? Also if I pull the fan towards the radiator and rotate it at the same time there is a slight grinding sound.

The play is coming from the centre of the fan (at the shaft) and not the water pump side so at least its not the pump on its way out.

If it's not normal to have the degree of play I have noted and therefore the fan does need replacing, I will attempt the hammer & wrench method. However as mentioned, is refitting going to be just as straight forward with a whack in the opposite direction, or will another method be needed?
 

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I would replace the fan clutch before it decides to fall apart and takes your radiator, belt, hoses, shroud, thermo, hood pad and/or air box with it. I've seen two of these things eat themselves and the fan parts flying around do not make for a pretty, or cheap, picture.

As for the wrench I'll have to head out to the garage to get the size, but I was referring to a standard open end wrench. As it is reverse thread there is no need to worry about torque setting on reassembly. The thread direction coupled with the revolution direction of the engine keeps the fan tight. I have only ever hand tightened them then given a quick tap with the hammer on the wrench. I guess this means I may very well have more tallent and practice at spanking things so they know their place. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
rrtoadhall said:
I would replace the fan clutch before it decides to fall apart and takes your radiator, belt, hoses, shroud, thermo, hood pad and/or air box with it. I've seen two of these things eat themselves and the fan parts flying around do not make for a pretty, or cheap, picture.

As for the wrench I'll have to head out to the garage to get the size, but I was referring to a standard open end wrench. As it is reverse thread there is no need to worry about torque setting on reassembly. The thread direction coupled with the revolution direction of the engine keeps the fan tight. I have only ever hand tightened them then given a quick tap with the hammer on the wrench. I guess this means I may very well have more tallent and practice at spanking things so they know their place. :mrgreen:
Great stuff, thanks very much for your help. Will update after fitting a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Right, update:

Got 36mm spanner on the fan nut and attempted the hammer method :cry: broke the tops off many of the fan blades and nut still didn't budge so will nee to buy new fan blades now. :evil:

So then opted for the long screwdriver between main shaft and the bolts on the water pump pully to stop it from turning and then using an extender bar on the spanner and brute force and it was at last free.

So with the fan off I turned the engine over only to be greated with the metalic rattle!!!!!!!!!!!!

Some good has come of this thought, with the fan off I was able to see the true fault. A free disc spinning loosly behind the crank pulley.
Does anyone know what it is? It's not flat (it has a curve out towards the lip and is much smaller than the main pulley. Looks more like a dust sheild.

Also how do I remove the main pulley to get to it without any specialist tools.

One thing after another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, done some research and found this loose piece to actually be part of the pulley. Does anyone know its purpose? thinking of cutting it off or bonding it back in place if it has no use.
Its not doing much at the moment except making lots of noise
 

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Bummer, if only I had got to this post earlier I would have saved you alot of cursing....but I didnt.

I get lots of these in with the rattles and its this very cursed oil seal protector come mud slinger that cause the same issue.

Clean up the ring and pulley shaft with a small can of carb cleaner, let dry.
Apply a thin bead of good quality silicone sealant, use two largish screw drivers are lever towards pulley, I tell my macs "you have 10 mins"

Sealant works well but you must let it cure for around 3 hrs
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ah just what I wanted to hear, common fault & easy fix. Top stuff :clap:

Thanks Viper
 
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