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First I started having trouble starting my p39 after it's warm and been running I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter last weekend.
Today after I had been driving I came home for about five or tem minutes but when I tried to leave it wouldn't start and when it did 20 min later
I it would drive very slow and sluggish sometimes back firing when I step on the gas what might this be ?????
 

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It sounds like you're thinking in the right direction. Mines started doing that back in April. I went to the gas her up and when I went to start her up nothing. After searching and buying a crankshaft sensor it turned out to be the fuel pump. Also, it was driving sluggish and everything just like you described. I don't know what year you have but if it's a 98 it can get pretty expensive. By the way I would check the crankshaft sensor first because the samething could happen and it a lot cheaper to have fixed or do it yourself. Hope this helps.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You should be able to hear the pump running and make sure you are getting 12v to the connector *I believe its close to the fuel filter*.
Did you try reading pressure at the Fuel rail after blocking the return fuel line from the regulator?

Mine started "having to crank few times" from cold and it finally gave out few months later. The cheap pump as listed on the main site is just fine for yours. I have been running mine for more than a year and been through an emission test here in AZ.
Like I have done, you can use the Airtex 3270 pump I bought locally from Autozone for $70.
Some good pointers here:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26844
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Bad HT leads and or coils could also be your problem to add to the list.
Most overlooked item is HT leads for some odd bizarre reason....
 

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I had this problem two summers ago and it turned out to the be fuel pump. Was a bummer because I had just filled up my gas tank and had to have it siphoned out completely to change the pump...
 

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redrover97 said:
?... What are ht leads
Wow there.b4 starting 2 replace anything.the crank position sensor failure means truck not starting at all.before guessing and replacing unecessary parts,check the fuel pump relay in the fuse box.not starting from hot is most likely 2b the cts (coolant temp sensor) this sensor monitors the coolant temperature and sends the info to the ecm wich will order a rich fuel mixture or lean fuel mixture,in case the truck was hot and this sensor is fooked it will order a rich fuel mixture through ecm thus floding ur cylinders and preventing it 2 start (u can smell petrol when it happens or even c black smoke from tail pipe).or it can b a leaking injector not closing properly and leaking petrol in the engine thus floding it also.a not operational injectors won't register a fault always.best thing 2 do is plugging a testbook and reading the faults stored in the ecm.take it from there BEFORE doing anything.
Now about the missfiring,normaly it happens if ur air flow mass is fooked and it will sometimes b accompanied with the gearbox fault message or even a check engine light.start by plugging the testbook.
 

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Wow. This happened to me yesterday. Well, actually, two months ago I suddenly noticed a loss of power - no matter how you step on it, it crawls; and when you try to press harder on the accelerator, it backfires. Luckily, I was able to drive it home that time. I left it alone for two days and when I tried it the next day, it as fine. Until yesterday. Driving along, suddenly, that loss of power again. Pressed harder on the accelerator, and I hear backfire. I was hoping I could make it home again but then it continues to get worse - rough running until it dies. I try to restart, it starts, rough running for a short time, then dies. I do this several times until it won't start. I had her towed and when it gets to the shop after 3 hours, the mechanic starts her up, it sputters for a while, then it starts to catch and runs fine again.

If the pump's bad it's bad, right? Never experienced having to crank multiple times in the morning. So, I'm thinking fuel pump relay?

Oh, mine's a 1997 4.6HSE.
 

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then it is a guessing,replace everything till u solve ur problem.(ht leads,coils,8 injectors,fuel pump,spark plugs,fuel filter,air flow meter,air sensor,air filter,vaccum tubes of regulator,fuel pipes coz they corrode inside out,motor starter,battery (low voltage causes non start),fuel pump relay,fuel non return valve,fuel purging valve,crack position sensor,camshaft sensor,the list continues....)
PLUG A TESTBOOK READ THE FAULTS
TAKE IT FROM THERE BEFORE REPLACING PARTS.
the hard part is not fixing the problem,is convincing p38 owners from trial and error.
good luck
 

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As I stated before, it sounds like its either your crankshaft sensor or your fuel pump. Mine did the samething in March. The reason I stated that you should start with the crankshaft sensor first is because its the cheapest thing to replace and its where the indie will start. I got the same info from the board like you're receiving now and it turned out to be the fuel pump. I'm a firm believer in DIY, but, it this case you should take it in and have them take care of it if its above your echelon of maintenance. Also, after having it taken care of I haven't had the bothersome problem I was having when I went to gas up. I could only put in a few gallons at a time before it would allow me to put in more...ie I would have to stop pumping after I put in 4 gallons let it go down into the pump before I could put in the next 4 gallons.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't have a test book near me or I would have used it the rover repair shop is too far and other shops will not touch he truck here's what it's doing it would not start so replace map ,tps ,and coolant temp sensor but it will only start when I unplug the map sensor and the it will idle at almost 2000 Rpm,s but
When I shift into gear and Ty to drive it misfires and loses power
 
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