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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

has anyone looked at this? http://maxbrake.com/

Seems like a sweet setup. Anyone have opinions on whether there are roadblocks to installing this on our trucks?

Best regards,
Christian
 

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I don't like to tow with Rovers, my sister has three HD Ford PU's that she drags 6 and 8 horse trailers, I mean, they hold that many horses. So, I borrow one of her trucks when I have to haul something, the Rovers are too gutless. Her trucks all have those trailer brake controllers, and the deal the maxbrake punters make about using menus to configure the weight factor is not a big deal to her and she is just a rancher that is more comfortable pulling a colt out of the mare than remembering to use Windows update on her laptop.

So, after looking at one of her trucks, I don't see any problem with using one on a Rover, it just taps in the the brake master cyclinder to get a reading on the pressure to base it's calculation of how much force the trailer brake should apply. Rover pedal feel is not very proportional, in my opinion, so you would probably have to experiment with the right settings on something like my sisters setup. Maybe the Maxbrake would make it easier, but chances are you have only one thing in mind to tow and once you get it set you will probably leave it alone. She changes it only when on mountain roads going downhill, to increase the power to the trailer brakes sooner making it "pull" back on her truck. I think that feels a little weird myself, but she feels safer that way, and she claims the horses don't get tossed around as much - they are pretty vocal about a bumpy ride and they are her babies.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rock said:
[..] So, after looking at one of her trucks, I don't see any problem with using one on a Rover, it just taps in the the brake master cyclinder to get a reading on the pressure to base it's calculation of how much force the trailer brake should apply. Rover pedal feel is not very proportional, in my opinion, so you would probably have to experiment with the right settings on something like my sisters setup. Maybe the Maxbrake would make it easier, but chances are you have only one thing in mind to tow and once you get it set you will probably leave it alone. She changes it only when on mountain roads going downhill, to increase the power to the trailer brakes sooner making it "pull" back on her truck. I think that feels a little weird myself, but she feels safer that way, and she claims the horses don't get tossed around as much - they are pretty vocal about a bumpy ride and they are her babies.
Thanks for the feedback. I suspect she'd be adjusting the braking current rather than the calibration, which makes perfect sense actually. Even with some primitive as an Activator II or similarly brake controllers, it's normal to adjust braking force depending on conditions (dry vs wet) as well as to compensate for weight (you don't want the trailer brakes locking up on you). I always used to adjust the trailer brakes to be doing more work than the truck. Theory being, I wanted good brakes on the truck when the 4 sets of shoes on a double axle trailer failed or got weak. Plus, having the trailer drag the truck actually helps with stability under braking..

Thanks again, this is useful feedback. The Maxbrake seems a little overkill, but it is a neat setup, I think. My only question is tapping into the master brake cylinder with the T adapter. I'll speak up with what I find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After crawling all over and under the truck tonight (full brake job, front driveshaft, oil change, yada yada), I took another look at our brake setup. I don't think I want to tap into that. I'm back in the accelerometer camp, I think.
 

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My sister has a 2004 Ford also, her husband will be around when I see them next and maybe he can explain what went into putting that on their newer truck. That newest model is every bit as complicated as my Rover, a 97, it has at least the ABS, and traction control. I don't know, maybe the new setup is all electronic with no tap into the hydraulics?
 

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I use the prodigy brake controller in my rover and in my motorhome, with which I tow my series toy. It works great for me, much better than the simple old school ones and they arent too expensive. Gordo
 

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Yeah it was pretty easy, The hardest part is getting to the brake light switch. Its only 4 wires to hook it up. Worth noting this is in a Classic vs a P38 though. I found them cheapest on Ebay and lots of RV guys like this model. Gordo
 

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I have a prodigy in my p38 4.6 It has done maybe 5,000kms towing > 3000kg using it. Works great.
We've done a lot of study to find the best brake controller, I wouldn't use anything else. About to take off with the Caravan Friday

I put it in myself, the hardest part was finding which off the three brake wires gives it the signal. Also had to pull cables from the battery through the firewall and back to the back of the car.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again, guys. Where did you route the cables inside? And how did you (and do I ;-) ) find the cable for the brake signal?
 

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Much of it is covered on the rangerovers.net site (eg CB radio install for cables through firewall).

The brake wires can be found on the switch at the top of the pedal. You can look in RAVE but it didn't help me much. There were 3 wires to try, it was the third I tried!

Then you unclick the panels and run the wires just inside footwell near the doors to the boot. Take off the trim around the wheelarch. It is all easy enough to do but took me a while to work it out carefully.
 

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Yeah its not hard. There are only 4 wires I believe, power, ground, one to the trailer brakes and one to the wire that comes off the brake light switch (ie is only hot when the brakes are pushed). Gordo
 
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