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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have a mystery that I am stumped on. This morning the temperature was -1 here so I go and start my 2004 Range with 4.4 (80k) 15 minutes before I needed to leave for daycare drop off. I heard a slight howelling sound that went away a few moments after start. Figured it was a cold night and just a noise from belt or something. I also heard this noise yesterday when also below 0 degree F. I drove the ten minutes to the daycare and while taking my son out I smelled oil. Thought maybe she was running rich because of the weather. Come out a few moments later and leave and make it a few miles down the road when the LOw Oil pressure Warning sounded also with Shut Engine Off warning. So I went another half mile where I was clear to pull over and shut it down. I got out and looked underneath to find oil front to back even dripping off the gas tank. Oil was everywhere!!! So I called my buddy with the rollback and took it to a shop I have access to a lift. ( I am a TooL Dealer) I put 8 Qrts in and put it up in the air and started it. No leak!! Ran it for almost two hours checking for leaks and check oil level and restart. This was a challenge because the engine was soaked in oil mostly passenger side. Checked front seal and it was dry. REar seal was slighty wet but obviously not the location of the nine quarts. THe valve cover and head gaskets had the slow weap around that was present for a while now but nothing that looked like all that oil came out of. I could not find anything and the oil and Range stayed normal. I drove it home another ten minute drive and checked everything again. No large leak!! This thing drained everything in the matter of moments and now no leak....??? I hooked my scan tool up to it and got the normal cam codes due to the oil issue at hand and cleared it. Check the Live DATA streams to look for abnormality. Idle was at around 850-900rpm and the Coolant temp seem to be high at 220 but I need to find out what the normal is. I did not overheat that I know of. No warnings anyhow. Drove it and no new codes thrown although it might need several more miles to cycle the computer. Runs strong with no knocks or any strange noises. I do not feel like driving it till I figure out what happened. My thoughts......PCV valve stuck because of extreme cold and crank pressure built up and forced oil from multiple locations and then righted itself by the time it was in the shop and the temp was up. ANY IDEAS?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I think if you do a search here for PCV and related plumbing you will find your answer. Water seperator and/or related hoses iced up and created oil backpressure with the oil spewing out at the weakest seal. I would guess somewhere in the valve cover gaskets.Not too difficult for the DYI.
 

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Yes, time to swap out your PCV system. Here are the parts you need -

Tube, LR003814, approx $10
Tube, LLH000110, approx $5
Tube - Breather, 8510366, approx $30
Tube - Breather, 8510367, approx $30
Engine Manifold Cover, LKR000040, approx $95
Gasket for Manifold Cover, LKJ000060, approx $5
Oil Separator, LLP000010, approx $40

These were prices that I 'negotiated' at a Land Rover Stealership - Maybe try www.autopartswarehouse as well.

Also, may need some new Bolts to connect plastic Manifold Cover to back of engine, because the originals have silly Torx heads, with soft metal, and can easily get stripped.

And yes, you should also change the 2 Valve Cover Gaskets - A set of 2 will run about $70. I got mine from Napa Auto Parts. Depending on your mileage, I would also consider fitting a new set of Spark Plugs - Cheap and easy to do.

The issue that you have can happen to every M62 engine at some point, especially after 100,000 miles, if the weather is cold enough.

We've had some pretty cold weather here in Madison, along with a 30 degree change in temperature overnight, a few days ago. My mechanic has four 03-05 Range Rovers in his shop right now that he is working on, all with the same issue. I was talking with him earlier this morning.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I would take a look at the small drain back hoses that are bolted to the block on the right side of the engine just above the oil pan gasket.
Also take a look at the tensioner make sure its tight this is on the right front edge of the block the tensioner faces the right wheel well
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you, I ordered the complete pcv system all hoses and parts needed for the job and will be my Monday nite project.
 

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I just had the same thing happen. You can read my post "Fouled Plugs:. What a mess. It smoked like a crop duster for about an hour burning all the oil off, then had to put in a second set of plugs.

New PCV did the trick. Still have an oil smell after 50 miles, it got everywhere.

Geoff
 

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Oddly enough, I was on my way to Clarks Summit (PA) from Albany, NY when this happened Wednesday. Just noticed your location.....
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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This is very common on X5's with the 4.4l M62 engine, and I presume it is with RR's also. PCV valve gets clogged and in cold climates you build pressure in the block... resulting in a big ole' explosion of oil or worse. It's something that people don't realize they need to change every 40-50k or so until you have a problem like this.

Some people hypothesize that this pressure also can cause some of the 50 common oil leaks on the engine seals.
 

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If you change your oil every 7k miles (or more if you have frequent short trips) then the PCV system fares much better also. I'm not exactly sure the reasons why, but many who followed the 15k mile recommendation have had to replace the whole PCV system every year or two. I change my oil about every 6k or so miles (so did the original owner who kept detailed records) and my original PCV components made it about 7 years. So far just over two years on the new parts and no issues yet in these sub-zero temps.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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It's also rumored that if you take a lot of short trips where the moisture in the engine doesn't have time to cook off... especially in sub freezing temps... you'll have more problems with the pcv system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I completed my PCV sytem replacement and it was pretty straightforward work. I would recomend a lift however to access the rigid tube that goes down to the oil pan. I loosened this bango fitting when replacing that three inch lenghth of hose that the dealers typically ignore because it is difficult to change. And when that small hose was out I noticed that it where the the line blew a hole and it was extremely gummy. Also when removing the 10mm bolt that holds the rigid tube at the top to that coolant manifold it broke. So I ended up removing the manifold to extract the broken stud. This would leak coolant if not taken care of!!I also had to replace the four O-ring seals on the tubes that go under the intake plenum from water manifold to water pump because they would not reseal. THe seals were more flat than round .Again this was because of the one broken stud. I sourced the O-Ring Seals for a couple bucks at the local BMW dealer along with a few gallons of the blue BMW coolant. Make sure you check all your clamps!!! I replaced a few with the higher quality smooth inside stainless clamps. I did not tighten one of the LR clmaps that have the plastic collor on the water manifold and learned the hard way the other night while driving to NY. These clamps are questionable to reuse because of that plastic. So after a 150 towbill I replaced clamps and filled my coolant system again. Took a long time to get the Air out of the coolant system but that is another thread. I will post some pictures of the PCV valve that came out and the lined that failed once the pressure was up. Also I have a OEM level by directional scan tool and deflated the Air Ride System Completey and that really helps for the topside work.
 

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...I will post some pictures of the PCV valve that came out and the lined that failed once the pressure was up...
Pilot-
You could save yourself a lot of time and some forum server space. What happened to your RR has been very well posted, discussed, documented and photographed here on the Forum in many, many posts long before yours. It's far from rare, and anyone who researches the forum can find it and most other problems that bring new forum members here.

If you take some time to read the Forum, you'll be amazed with the range of topics that existed before you discovered it.

What do you fly, F-15? F-16? F-18 F-22? A-10?...
I don't know of any bases near your location. If you're a commercial pilot, what did you fly before you went commercial?

"WELCOME TO THE FORUM"!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LOL I wish!!! I was ARMY and Spent lots of time on BlackHawks, Little Birds and a few other AirForce spec aircraft as a passenger to be dropped off. I left after 8 years and multiple deployments to a more relaxing lifestyle. I actually built my plane frome scratch and fly it. Its a Zenith 601 HDS with a Lycoming 118hp prop job. Thanks for the Forum specifics but dont recall a pic of the bad PCV set up but I am sure I could have missed it. I found it interesting and love the forum for all the info.
 

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Thanks for posting more pictures of failed parts.
The little rubber hose thats connected to the metal drain line at the pan banjo does get soft and it will leak,
so its a good idea to check this once in a while and swap in a new hose as necessary
 

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Nice write up. It looks like that rupture on the oil seperator hose was your exit point for the oil spewing. You did change the 4 valve cover gaskets correct? Those are a joy. Jim
 

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Thanks Simon!!! By the way, I see you're from Madison, Still there? My 04 came from Madison, I am about two hours away and just had -13 when this started a massive leak. I drove 20 miles, no smells no smoke but WOW what a mess underneath. Only 1 qt low and leak is gone.
 

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Hello,

I dealt with the PCV Valve failure as well as still pushing oil out the seals on valve covers and the oil filter area. Ran fine for a while.

Now I have two cylinders 1&2 misfiring. I'm worried it is from the oil clouding and settling on the motor. Oil residue is all over the motor and under the hood.

Milwaukee WI here.
 

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Unless you replaced the entire "PCV" system along with it's spider web of hoses you only did part of the job. You may very well have a collapsed hose that was not dealt with and will continue to have issues. With the freezing temps you have had at night you may also have an issue with condensation in the system freezing.

As far as the mess... clean it up. It;s not that big of a deal. You may also have a leaking gasket allowing oil to pool around your spark plugs causing the misfire. There just simply is not enough info in your post for us to do any more than guess.
 

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Daftpimf - How's the misfire now? Were you able to clean everything up? I'm in Madison, WI. Happy to take a look if you want some help.
 
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