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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I performed a leak test last night and left the door open to find the entire front suspension on the bump stops, the rear was fine. It did seem that the left front was perhaps a bit lower than the right. Last month, I had four new air bags installed, and I have looked with soapy water on the valve block, dryer, and connections to the front springs for leaks, none are evident. Without getting too detailed, looks like I have a leak within the valve block internally?

I should also add that if kept outside in the cold, the front of the truck will go the bumpstops within an hour or two 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time it is fine. Also, it seems to empty the resevoir, because when I get in the truck to drive I first must lower to access, wait 5 or 10 minutes, then raise to standard height. I figure it's better to do this than create a fault if I let it try to inflate the front for 10 minutes or so...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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New airbags can sometimes leak at the crimpings - check out the front air bellows with a flashlight and soapy water just to be sure. Also trace the front lines and make sure there are no issues. It sounds like you are in need of a valve block rebuild - make sure when you strip down the block you inspect the seals for the plungers that control the front right and left bags - this might/should confirm your issue issue.
 

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i just had the same problem with mine after my rebuild.

i could not find the leak anywhere, but it was coming from the valve block, although it wasn't blowing any bubbles at all.

ended up being a bad solenoid valve in my case. might be a good suggestion so long as you're sure that your bags and connections are all secure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
good to know thanks for the help! Are the solenoids easy to swap without depressurizing the system or taking the valve block apart?
 

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good to know thanks for the help! Are the solenoids easy to swap without depressurizing the system or taking the valve block apart?
you'll still want to depressurize the system to be safe.

if both of your front solenoids are bad, you'll need to remove the valve block either way since the front has a valve on the top and the bottom of the block.

but no, you shouldn't need to actually disassemble it at all, since the solenoids and the actuators are all attached on top. i'd replace both the actuator and the plunger like mine were and be done with it so you don't have to take the whole assembly out again.
 
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