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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my first major problem with the P38. Drove home this morning and ABS, Brake, and TCS lights came on and pedal went very soft. Nursed the car home and found a huge mess of brake fluid up under the rear end. So I got out my trusty camera on a flex wand, and peered up where the brake lines cross the back of the car, just above the frame area, and the pipes are rotted out.
I am going to buy replacement pipes, but have never worked up under a Range Rover before. Has anyone replaced these brake lines in place, and if so, how difficult a job is it?

Thanks
 

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Brake lines are not bad at all to replace... messy filthy job... but not difficult. You'll need to drop the fuel tank but this also gives you a chance to address any other corrosion issues you have lurking under there.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I have had a look under there, and just can't see how to get to the lines. They are clipped to the frame between it and the body. The other problem is all the replacement lines I can find are just coiled up but the correct length. So, if you screw up any of the bends, they may still not fit correctly. Another issue is that the pipe is 3/16", and the fittings are metric. Metric fittings are hard to find, not to mention I don't have a flare tool that will properly perform an inverted flare or a bubble flare. So I have sent out a few queries to see what the cost of new lines installed and the brake system purged and bled.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, so after laying on my back studying, and pulling the inner fender liners, it actually looks doable. So I will do it and post procedures and even a few pics. Probably going to order the brake line kit this evening.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Parts are on order. Should be in on Thursday, so tomorrow night, I will pull the rest of the wheel arch liners and spray the connections down with PB Blaster to let then soak for 24 hours before I attempt to loosen them.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I managed to do my front-rears in-situ - with the fuel tank in place. I also did the far side as a single run, though a lot of people do the cross-body run as a separate length of pipe and add a join above the RHR where the RHR line ends, as it makes it a bit easier.

I used a 3/16 flare tool which did SAE flares, and then used the M10 metric connections and haven't had any leaks since doing them a couple of years ago.

Mine were an advisory on the MOT (yearly vehicle inspection) as being 'slightly corroded' so did them before they actually failed - but when I got the old ones out, one of them actually snapped off because of the rust! So was glad I didn't leave it any longer!

There were a couple of bits I found a bit fiddly, but overall not complicated - just take your time with it and it'll be easy enough.

I managed to reach up over the chassis cross piece above the rear axle once the cross-body line was in to the LHR, and clip it into the original clips by feel, which saved me from having to drop the fuel tank.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well decided to get a little jump on the projects. I removed the rear inner wheel arch liners which is probably the easiest part of the job. This exposed the left and right fittings for the pipes I will be replacing:

IMG_1247.jpg IMG_1251.jpg

So, I got my trusty 7/16" line fitting wrench, and much to my surprise, the fittings undid with no problems at all:

IMG_1249.jpg IMG_1252.jpg

So, after that I will tackle the front fittings tomorrow. Since the heater core or O rings also has a leak, I decided to remove the console side panels and glove compartment ready to remove the heater core or replace the O rings whichever is required.

IMG_1254.jpg IMG_1255.jpg

So far so good.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So all of my parts arrived from Atlantic British Limited. Looks like as soon as I get off work tomorrow, I will be working on the brakes. It looks like all of the fittings are bubble flare. Never used them before, I wonder how tight they are supposed to be.
 

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Clean and snug. Over tighten and the joints will collapse or threads will strip.
 
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