[ahast707]

I have an 08 range rover supercharged sport and ive been getting lean error codes for awhile now. While running through the current data while i was plugged in, i noticed the MAP was reading 32 kpa while idling at 650 RPM.

Right now the barometric pressure in the atmosphere in 29 inhg and 32 kpa translated to inhg is 10.

Could the MAP sensor be going bad causing the system to run lean?

 

[jhartz]

It could be a bad, or dirty, MAF sensor, vice MAP. If you can read the codes, can you read the LT fuel trims? These can help point the way. On my 08 RRS/SC, those codes were usually a sign the injectors were dirty, spitting, not spraying. Can of GUMOUT or SEA FOAM always fixed the problem. But all the piping from the air cleaner to the throttle body need to be air/vacuum tight.

 

[ahast707]

Hey man thanks for the input. I always pull both banks being lean but on the first bank its -3.9 and on bank two its .8 at idle. 650 rpm.

Ive tried BG44k to run through it, replaced the MAF sensor, had spark plugs replaced recently by LR techs, ive even had techs tell me my Fuel Trims are spot on.

I did replace the O2 sensors, all four, but I did use aftermarket one's. Any thoughts?

On a side not, if i understand it correctly an engine needs to have above 29 inch mercury to suck air in right? So if im idling at 650 and sucking in 11 or 12 inch of mercury, thats a problem right?

 

[jhartz]

I think your fuel trims are pretty close to spot on. Maybe clear the codes and see what goes on. Vacuum will vary on engine speed and load.

 

[ahast707]

Ive cleared the code too many times to count, 99 percent of the time it comes back as system too lean on both banks. Rarely itll throw a random system rich code. I cant get rid of this code and its driving me crazy.

 

[arby]

Have you tried a smoke test?

 

[ahast707]

Did indeed, the only place it smoked from was the brake booster so i replaced that.

I guess my question is, if i didnt use oem parts, would i still be having issues. The MAF sensor was from AutoZone for 77 dollars and the O2 sensors were from Amazon, cant remember the brand but it was 188 for both up and downstream. The code has always came back within 50 miles right after replacing and clearing it. Should i stick to strictly OEM parts?