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Discussion Starter #1
Now and then I get really stuck and it looks to me that the rear diff in some situations doesnt lock where it could be really helpfull. Not long ago I got stuck in a ditch with 3 of the wheels in deep snow, while the 4th(rear wheel) was on dry land. The passenger side of the car was very close to a tree so I had to be very careful to get out without damaging the car. I eventually got out of it by placing the rubber mats from the floors under the (street)tires. With a land cruiser I drive now and then I would get out easy by locking the rear differential. Same goes with my previous Disco4 with rear locker, witch has a more active/quicker/better reaction on the locking/unlocking?

After watching this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qukhk1lE5PA

-I wonder, is there a way to program the key or one of the knobs in the car to lock and unlock the differentials for short while to get out of difficult situations?

The car is a RRS SC 05 with rear ediff.

Best
Aleksander
 

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A locking rear differential was an option if ordered from the factory, but was not part of the standard config. It was only part of what was called the HD package. You can run your VIN# and check if it has that option..but sounds like it doesn't.

The key fob locking...never heard of that as an option.

I think you have two choices to consider - replacing the non locking rear diff with a locked OEM one...would have to see if the dealer can program the car to accept that. If it's possible, then probably the CCF (Car Configuration File) needs to be updated...not sure if anything else also has to be programmed after that.

The other alternative that I've seen discussed, but never implemented was to put in a locking ARB diff in the rear differential. Some folks have pondered it, but I've never seen anyone actually do it.

The other suggestion would be in the absence of being able to replace the diff is to buy a pair of MaxTraxx...that will get you out of a situation like this or on sand/mud where you tracking has been compromised.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply PJPRO1. The question was not if I have or can put in a locking diff. I already have the electronic rear locking diff. I enjoy its extra traction often, but sometimes it locks late or not at all i some situations where extra traction would be great before the computer can calculate slip on the wheels. Thats why Im asking if there is a way to program the differential to lock manually?
 

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Long and short is no. First off you did not tell us you had the electronic rear differential. Your title asks about plural diffs... pointing towards both front and rear. Give PJ a break, he was just explaining that only the rear was an option and what your choices are. He was trying to be helpful.

No there is no way from the factory to program or manually operate the rear differential on a first year L320.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for not good enough description of the car, I thought the last sentence in my post- RRS SC with rear e-diff, would describe the diff situation well enough;)
 

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Thanks for the reply PJPRO1. The question was not if I have or can put in a locking diff. I already have the electronic rear locking diff. I enjoy its extra traction often, but sometimes it locks late or not at all i some situations where extra traction would be great before the computer can calculate slip on the wheels. Thats why Im asking if there is a way to program the differential to lock manually?
Ok...got it. Short answer is I don't know. Probably have to read the manual and see if in one of the Terrain Response settings, you can forcibly lock the rear diff. Very few people have that option, so I'm not familiar with how to lock it any further than e-locking it. I'm guessing that it is in fact locked, but the wheels are slipping anyway due to difference in traction situations from left to right. The slowest, highest torque setting should be Rock Crawl, so Low Range, 1st or 2nd gear and with the locked rear diff...I should imagine you could move at a slow controlled space. But if one side is solid ground, and the other is slippery deep snow, you may still not get out with some form of traction assistance...hence I Highly recommend you get a set of MaxTraxx...much better than using the rubber mats from the vehicle.

Try checking with the guys from GAP IID tool to see if with the use of the GAP TOOL you can do something to program the differential in a different way than the vehicle is automatically working.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tip about the maxtraxx. I bought some smaller cheaper version of them after last time I got stuck, but the Maxtraxx would probably work a lot better. I´ll also try rock crawl next time, I didnt think about that, but that makes sense! I´ll try the GAP IID and see what happens and keep you updated if I have any luck! Thank you!

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Aleksander
 

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One last thought is to remember to give controlled throttle and allow a few seconds for the terrain response to figure out what is happening make adjustments. I tend to be impatient and give inconsistent throttle and get nowhere. The system is quick to respond but not instantaneous.
 

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With these cars you have TR for various situations which will impact how the rear e-diff responds. WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS switch to Rock Crawl - in that setting all locks up (I am also assuming the rear diff but it is an assumption) - in Rock Crawl the car acts like an old traditional 4wd with a locked center diff and provides the max traction that the car can provide.

Irrespective of whether you had an ediff or not, traction control should have got you going - did you have DSC turned off - you must do that and switch it back off when you change TR setting. I think you need to have a look at the recent post about what the different TR functions do because I am thinking you were not in the correct TR setting and that you had DSC on - also are you confusing having a rear diff fitted with the standard centre diff.

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tested snow/mud vs rock crawl in deep snow yesterday, the center diff locks immediately in rock while it still takes some time for the rear locker to engage(at least in the 4x4 info screen) but didnt try to get very stuck. On my previous Disco4 both center and rear locked almost instant in the same situation, giving more traction quicker? Anyway, I had more traction with rock crawl in deep snow! Thanks for the tip Garry and PJPR0.
If I get stuck or think I will, I always turn the DSC off.

Reguarding if I have a rear locker or not. The 4x4 info screen has two green lockers when in special programs, one between the rear axels and one in the center they both turnes red when engaged. The rear differential has an extra electric motor(LR009442) on top of it. The reciept for the car say rear electronic locking differential(not open differential as in cars without rear locking differential), when the car gets stuck and both differentials are locked it get a lot more traction, and the car is a lot more capable offroad compared the RRS I have driven whitout the rear locker. When I had to change the rear differential- the part number was- LR059435. Is there a way I can not have the rear electronic locking differential as stated in my first post? :wink:

Garry, do you have any experience on driving in very deep snow with ice under? I dont belive any TR can handle that without the rest of the hardware like tires and driveline are up to it. In the situation I explained I also was very close to a tree, not able to be hard on the throttle or using momentum to get free. I belive it could have helped a lot if the rear differential locked faster, givning the traction I needed to back carefully out.

Aleksander
 

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To answer your question - no. However I do have some knowledge. The TR setting for snow is for use on normal roads that have a light covering of snow and or ice. It is not really for deep snow.

Snow in some ways is like sand so in deep snow many use the TR setting for sand - however if that fails Rock Crawl is the pick as everything is locked and the car acts like a traditional locked 4wd. In and offroad situation other factors such as tyres, pressures, technique will as important, if not more important than TR response.

Now in comparison of your RRS with your previous D4 - now basically the same car with the same systems so should be the same offroad - you RRS is the equivalent of thw D3 and the D4 has later TR software but there would not be much in it - so in the scenarios you have outlined there should be little difference between the vehicles fitted with the same equipment. So next to that tree - you would have had the same issue in the D4.

Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now in comparison of your RRS with your previous D4 - now basically the same car with the same systems so should be the same offroad - you RRS is the equivalent of thw D3 and the D4 has later TR software but there would not be much in it - so in the scenarios you have outlined there should be little difference between the vehicles fitted with the same equipment. So next to that tree - you would have had the same issue in the D4.

Garry
Do you have any sources for this? I have liftet my sport a litle with new rods and put on some wrangler duratracs. I´ve been told that the RRS with ACE has a litle more wheel articulation than the standard because of the ACE system turnes off and let the anti roll bars sway freely when offroad. But still I belive in genereal that the Disco4 was better offroad even with the street tires that came with the car. I have no way to prove this but to me I seemed like the TR in the Disco4 was better.
 

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I know nothing of ACE as I don't have it.

As I said the D4 and the RRS is basically the same car - your RRS is the equivalent of the D3 and the only real difference betweeen the D3 and D4 other than cosmetic upgrade are different engines and important to this discussion while TR is the same in the D3 and D4 the TR software in the D4 is later than the D3 and what you have in your early RRS. This may be the difference you felt.
 
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