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Nothing like this was ever installed from new. Sounds like a bodge job when someone has not properly maintained their UJoints. Remember that P38 UJoints need to be greased at every oil change. Most owners do not do this, UJoints wear due to being dry. If your 4 UJoints are worn enough to allow slop in the drive lines you need to replace them.
 

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Not a bodge job but a genuine LR part that is standard fitment on diesel models that have only 3 bolts on each coupling rather than 4 like a V8 model will have to bolt to the Universal Joint. If you look at it, with 6 bolt holes it could never be made to fit instead of a UJ unless the car never had the UJ in the first place.
 

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We never had diesels over here and the OP has the standard 4.6 drive train. So no they were not fit on any NAS models when new and most likely were not installed on petrol models for any market.

I've seen similar items on Mercedes, but never a P38.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for that. TBH I haven't traced my clunk to prop or diff or tfr box etc yet as I've only had it a couple of months, but having cut my teeth on Series 3 in my formative years I like nothing better than greasing up the prop and watching the black gunk ooze out of them until you get the lovely clear stuff, so I'll get on the prop shafts asap
 

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Actually you DON'T want to see anything ooze out. You want to see the rubber seals just barely bulge a little. If you have grease coming out you have compromised the needle bearing seals and road grime and dust can get into the UJoint. It takes very little grease to maintain smooth UJoints.
 

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Transfer box has a chain in it that carries the drive, so if that has a bit of stretch in it, you will hear it as it takes the slack up going from forward to reverse. Diffs will often clunk a little too, they all do it to a certain extent. There's a lot of bits of metal changing direction so you will hear even the tiniest bit of slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Richard.
 

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I whipped through the drive train, greasing,draining and refilling. The Tfr box DIII was toasted, the UJs/ props are all good, but accepted some grease before going firm. Diff oil wasn't great. The general running noise of the drive train seems much better now, and if my stereo worked I probably wouldn't notice - but I'm zeroing in on either the tfr box or the diff for the clunk - possibly the tfr box having seen the state of what came out of the tfr box. I guess the diff is an easier fix, and if that doesn't solve things then I'll replace the tfr box. My viscous coupling seems to be working so that's a nice surprise. I'm trying to get a steelman chassis Ear to attach phones at different point on the underbody to try and localise the sound. Has anyone had experience of the system?

On the rear hubs - if I manage to remove the hub nut (need to get the right size socket), and dismantle the (rear) hub, can I remove (or access) both races to regrease them? Or would folks recommend that by the time you've messed around getting that far you may as well change the bearings over (and assuming the bearing cup is unmarked). My bearings are ok i think, but I had to replace an oil seal left rear, and am concerned that if EP90 got into the bearing it will have dissolved the grease and so I should access the bearing sooner rather than later to re-grease it... or am I being over-cautious?

Rgds, Rob
 

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On the rear hubs - if I manage to remove the hub nut (need to get the right size socket), and dismantle the (rear) hub, can I remove (or access) both races to regrease them?
Hubs are oil lubed.
Your noises will be a combination of prop shaft UJs, TC chain play, diff play and maybe worn half shafts. These, individually may be innocuous but they add up to a surprising amount of play.
 

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On the rear hubs - if I manage to remove the hub nut (need to get the right size socket), and dismantle the (rear) hub, can I remove (or access) both races to regrease them?
There's no need to remove the hub nut, just undo the ring of 6 bolts that hold the hub to the axle and pull it out complete with half shaft. You can only dismantle the hub with a substantial press so it isn't worth the effort when a complete hub can be bought for not much more than the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
On the rear hubs - if I manage to remove the hub nut (need to get the right size socket), and dismantle the (rear) hub, can I remove (or access) both races to regrease them?
Hubs are oil lubed.
Your noises will be a combination of prop shaft UJs, TC chain play, diff play and maybe worn half shafts. These, individually may be innocuous but they add up to a surprising amount of play.
Thanks JohnnoK. Bearings are greased from new, and the wrong side of the oil seal to get oil from the diff, so how are they oil lubed? I'm trying to get at whether they are "greased for life" or not
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On the rear hubs - if I manage to remove the hub nut (need to get the right size socket), and dismantle the (rear) hub, can I remove (or access) both races to regrease them?
There's no need to remove the hub nut, just undo the ring of 6 bolts that hold the hub to the axle and pull it out complete with half shaft. You can only dismantle the hub with a substantial press so it isn't worth the effort when a complete hub can be bought for not much more than the bearing.
Thanks Rich,

I've stripped that far a couple of times, but surely even if you replace the hub as a unit you still have to remove the hub nut to change the half shaft? My bearings are ok, so I surmise that removing the hubnut and half shaft will allow me to grease inside the races, and no need to press out. Is there no official P38 hub maintenance? Is it just "sealed for life"/ "wait to fail"?
 

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The bearings are sealed units, if they were race type you wouldn’t need a press, there not like cars and set off a stalk, there mounted in the hub, so no access I’m afraid
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The bearings are sealed units, if they were race type you wouldn’t need a press, there not like cars and set off a stalk, there mounted in the hub, so no access I’m afraid
Chris, you only need to access the inside of the bearing to grease it. I've done this to a Lr SIII, and never owned a normal car in 30 yrs of driving. I was just wanting confirmation from someone who did it to a P38 hub, it seems all you do is remove the stub from the hub and by definition the bearings are accessible from inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Having checked out the design of these bearings then it seems as if they are indeed fully sealed. Unless there's a magic trick for re-greasing them then it seems there's no preventative maintenance to do ( as much as that might frustrate me !?!). Thanks Chris
 

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the wheel bearings are a sealed unit just like an over sized front wheel drive bearing with seals . throw away item!
PS if you think you need replacing them do it before you cook the bearings as you will need a very substantial press , if they are done early you can remove them with a standard small press. not cheap to buy?
 

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Thanks JohnnoK. Bearings are greased from new, and the wrong side of the oil seal to get oil from the diff, so how are they oil lubed? I'm trying to get at whether they are "greased for life" or not
You are correct, my mistake.
If they are sold pre-packed then they will be "greased for life", but I have opened some bearings up before and found woefully little grease in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Turns out my clunk was magically removed by replacing the rear final drive unit with an Ashcroft recon, along with a droning sound I had while driving, well chuffed, drinks on me
 
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