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Discussion Starter #1
What is the correct torque spec for the wheel lug nuts on a '06 Range Rover Sport Supercharged?

Thanks,
TJ
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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A very similar question occured to me as I was jumping up and down on the lug wrench on the side of the road a while back..."I wonder what torque my dealer's impact wrench drives the lugnuts to?" My carefully calibrated right leg tells me it might be more than 140Nm +/- 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
gooseyloosey said:
A very similar question occured to me as I was jumping up and down on the lug wrench on the side of the road a while back..."I wonder what torque my dealer's impact wrench drives the lugnuts to?" My carefully calibrated right leg tells me it might be more than 140Nm +/- 10.
More likely the lugs were seized a bit. The differing material between the wheel and lug, and lug and stud can cause them to seize up over time. I run anti-seize on the threads of the studs and contact surface of the lug (very, very little is needed) on my race car. I wonder if there would be any downside to running anti-seize on my RR?

-TJ
 

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tjZ06 said:
More likely the lugs were seized a bit. The differing material between the wheel and lug, and lug and stud can cause them to seize up over time.
These were waaay overtightened. The tech musta had the ol' impact wrench at the dealer set for 150Nm+/-10 `)
 

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More likely the lugs were seized a bit. The differing material between the wheel and lug, and lug and stud can cause them to seize up over time. I run anti-seize on the threads of the studs and contact surface of the lug (very, very little is needed) on my race car. I wonder if there would be any downside to running anti-seize on my RR?

-TJ
There is a downside to running anti-seize on the lug: the 103ft-lbs is a dry torque rating. Lubricating the threads makes it extremely easy to overtorque the lugs, and possibly cause a wheel failure. I think it's possible to roughly figure out the lubed torque value - but by feel Id think it's something closer to 80-ft-lbs.
 
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