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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I suspect some knowledge might be transferred from a similar swap on a DII
these guys called it quits because of the subtle between D2 years and trims. their beta kits were not plug and play. the ford 302 swap guy has videos could help you out on tricking a GEMS truck.

trailhead4x4 is doing swaps but obviously they take pride in their work.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
Here is the scoop on any "tricking", from someone that's done it...
The GEMS ecu is still there. It just needs to see RPM's and engine running to keep most things happy. I also made a manifold for the two GEMS temp sensors, so the stock temp gauge works, again fed via the GEMS ecu.
The oil pressure switch from the LS is the same signal as the GEMS switch, so run it to the GEMS ecu also. CEL is also the same signal, to that goes from the LS ecu to the GEMS ecu.
CEL light works as it did before.
TachAdapt made a module that went between the LS tach signal output, going into the GEMS ecu, so the tach works
EAS just see's what your already feeding the GEMS ecu anyways, so it works
HVAC needed 2 wires hooked together on the rear of the HVAC ecu, so it works as before.
Ls ecu gets set to 40,000 for the speed signal (IIRC), so the trans shifts correctly
I made a linkage to connect the P38 shifter to the 4L60E, so that works as before.
You'll get a "gearbox fault" message at shut down, for obvious reasons. I got it to go away by setting teh BeCM to a manual trans, but then lost reverse lights. I never bothered going deeper, so happily look at the "gearbox fault" message every time it shuts down. It would be easy enough to overcome though with setting the Becm to manual 'box, then rigging up a different feed to the Becm for reverse lights.
The ONLY thing that I never bothered messing with was cruise control. On a cable throttle body, it would take a little doing. You'd use the P38 buttons, but would need the LS cruise cable, vacuum pump, etc. On a drive by wire though, it's a piece of cake for obvious reasons.
You get into mine, and the only thing different is the 3 gauge cluster on top of the dash. Coolant temp, oil pressure, trans temp.
I also removed the *** lighter and installed a push button starter that goes directly to the ground signal from the Becm to the relay box. So if the Becm totally freaks out, remote batteries die, etc, it will always start and drive. Turn ignition key on, push start button, drive. Otherwise, it starts as it did before on the key\

Thats a very brief summary of how it all works. Yes you could do the same with a Ford 5.0 etc, but there is a TOM of support for LS swaps that you'll find invaluable
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
My guy has got back to me.
The adapter shafts, same as I am currently using and ones I've sold, will be $545 each, shipped to the lower 48. My guys prices did not raise, but the price of steel billet, and the hardening did.
this was the only hard part for me to get made, everything else I did myself. Which means the competent DIY'er can do the same thing. I dod have some adapter plates already cut, to go between the 4l60e and the BW transfer case, but you'd need to obtain the tubing locally as it would make shipping cost prohibitive. I used @5" ODx5/8" wall seamless tubing, if that gives you an idea of the weight.
I will not order anything until I get enough orders that follow up with pre payment. Been burnt before.

The ball is in your court gents
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
Ok, after replying to PM's, and posting here....I have ONE guy willing to part with actual money for a product.
Unfortunately what I ran into with other stuff too........
I'll wait till maybe Friday, then it's done.
I will however make sure Craig gets his. So if anyone else wants to get one, let me know asap.

Martin
 

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That’s not a bad price. I’m not sure what the shaft specs are but just picturing a typical splined adapter shaft. He’s doing that pretty cheap. Especially for a small qty.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
283750
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
Holy massive picture.....lol
Its machined, then hardened to Rockwell something. It's kinda over my head, but I've not managed to break or twist mine, and I've tried my best
 

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Looks nice. Does the other end have internal splines?


I don’t do much spline work. The ones we do are normally square shaped. Unlike a typical automotive spline.

Heat treating is a crazy thing. It’s amazing what those guys can do to a piece of metal. We have a lot of parts that get heat treated then final machined.

I just got my rover last month and it just has an exhaust leak to fix. I doubt I’d ever dabble in a motor swap myself. If I did, I’d probably be more of a tube buggy with a rover body type of thing. No original drivetrain or electronics.

Thanks for having a cool project and helping others complete their own.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
Yes, the internal splines slide over the 4L60E output shaft, to mate it to the P38 BW transfer case
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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450 Posts
LAST CHANCE , if anyone is going to purchase one of these shafts it now or never . there has been a lot of people that have requested this but as Martin says when it comes to actually purchasing it they disappear back into the shadows LAST CHANCE as i doubt if Martin will do it again
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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38 Posts
well shoot. 1 year ago I would have handed over money instantly, now i'm in the middle of moving, and selling our rig because I don't have room to take it/store it/work on it :(

No matter what, I will say
Martin, the knowledge you keep available, and the work you have done, for the P38 community is pretty awesome and is appreciated.

-Nate
 
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