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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully someone (Gilbertd?) can shed some light for me.
I've finally found a few minutes to fit my new R90/e and am following the instructions kindly provided by Gilbertd a while ago. I have a problem though. The new R90/e seems to have been built upside down and with the 2 adjustment screws differently labelled compared to my vintage one. The adjusters are labelled by-pass and idle as per this pic. Note that the pic is in the correct orientation as viewed from the front of the car and the physical installation of the vapouriser is identical to the old one- solenoid and gas inlet in same place.
adjust.jpg
The whole installation looks like this
omvl1.jpg
The only way I can just about get it to run on gas is to adjust the top (by-pass) adjuster. It'll only idle on this one though- cuts out over 1000 rpm. Nothing that I do to idle adjuster makes any difference. Any ideas anyone?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Yes, something got lost in translation from Italian. They aren't inverted but the markings are very confusing. The top one is the idle bleed. If you take it out you'll find it is simply a tapered end that blocks off a bypass passage inside. The lower one is the main bias and you should be able to feel the spring behind it as you turn it. Top one wants to be screwed fully in and, unlike the old ones that used to come set up almost right straight from the box, you'll need to unscrew the bottom one at least a couple of turns to release the spring pressure on the diaphragm so it can suck some gas through.

Confused me for about 3 hours when I replaced mine and ended up taking both to bits to confirm which screw did what.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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By-pass is the correct marking for the top one but the lower one marked idle isn't the idle by-pass but the main bias........

Not helped by them now both being 6mm and not 8 and 10mm like the old ones, but I suppose if you can save a few grammes of brass it'll keep the cost down.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Gilbertd- was hoping you were around :)
I'll go and have a play with the bottom adjuster (marked idle) and close the top one (by-pass).
The old one was 5 turns out so I'll start there. With 2 out, it did nothing...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You're lucky it's the last day of the month. Completed my monthly timesheet for work to find I've worked 7 hours more in the month than I get paid for, so I said sod it and have finished for the day. I had to give mine at least 2 turns out from where it was set before it would even run, then went from there so probably did end up about 4 or 5 turns out.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
Sort of got it running which is indeed progress. Got another connected issue though...
On both the old and this installation, the water level at top hose of vapouriser seems to sit way above the level line in the header tank. I've always had issues bleeding the cooling system with this car and imagine that this is a key contributor. Here's a pic with my best effort at a level line:
level1.jpg
Can't physically fit the vapouriser any lower as there's a mount underneath that it's bolted to. How did you get around this with your cars?
I suppose that I could lift the header tank as high as possible by cutting out the sound deadening under the bonnet, but if you've a more elegant solution (or indeed a pic of your setup) I'd be very happy to hear it!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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but if you've a more elegant solution (or indeed a pic of your setup) I'd be very happy to hear it!
I didn't have a pic of mine, but I have now, 2 in fact. Yours is mounted on the correct side for the hoses but not for space or connection to the mixer, mine is on the other side where I have a great big hole occupied by nothing (especially as the Greater Manchester Police didn't order cruise control!). The heater hose that would come from the inlet manifold to the heater matrix has a 22-15mm reducer in it and a length of 15mm heater hose then runs across the car sitting down at bellhousing level onto the bottom coolant connection on the R90E. The top connection comes out and runs across the back of the heads, resting on the ignition coils heatsink, curves around so it doesn't kink and via another reducer, connects to the heater matrix. That keeps everything a good 3 inches below the header tank level.

LPG outlet just goes straight into the mixer and, despite the label saying otherwise, the actuator is mounted so it hangs downwards. The bits of gaffer tape on the intake are where someone in the past broke or cut the resonator boxes off the intake. I cleaned up the holes and the gaffer tape over them acts as a) an additional air cleaner as the sticky side is inside and will catch anything that manages to get in and b) makes a good backfire protector as it will blow a hole in the gaffer tape rather than blow up the MAF or airbox.

WP_20150630_16_16_37_Pro.jpg WP_20150630_16_16_56_Pro.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Gilbertd- I'm inspired to go off and look for a suitable hole over on the other side. The thing that's meant to be a Cruise Control has never worked on mine anyway...
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,225 Posts
The Vap on mine (albeit sequential system and different make/model) is mounted on the same side as Gilbertd's - off a bracket which is attached to the shock tower. It fits in nicely between the cruise control and the air intake/engine etc... and I've got a second air compressor built in there too.

My pipe work goes up an over the top of the inlet manifold, so probably ends up a bit higher than the header tank. I haven't had issues with air locks in it (well, once but I'm pretty sure that was unrelated). The first time I drained/refilled the coolant it bled the air out no problem still. But I guess if you can get it fitted lower, then that is better! I've contemplated trying to fit mine lower, but there is so much less space on the Thor models to route anything around because of the bunch of bananas sitting there!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Marty and Gilbertd. I've explored the empty spaces, but the path of least complexity at the moment seems to be lifting the expansion tank to the maximum allowing for bonnet clearance. When swapping the vapouriser I found a chafed and pulpy hose between expansion tank and heater that needs imminent replacement anyway. Going to splice the new with a connector into the existing heater hose that goes through bulkhead to avoid disturbing the O rings. They're about the only thing on the Frequently Reported Faults top ten that it doesn't currently have!
 
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