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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2011 Range Rover Sport HSE LUX (L320). I have a "clunking noise" when I hit the brakes hard or hit a pot hole or speed bump. I have diagnosed and it appears I need to replace the left/driver's side lower control arm. Any advice, pointers, etc? Should I replace the right/passenger side lower control arm at the same time? Thanks. Jim
 

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Yes - get both done or accept you may have to do the other before too long. Some specialists can replace just the bushes but when cost of parts and labour is taken into account it is about the same price to just get new arms put in.

Also when you get the work done get the uppers and rears checked as well.

Garry
 

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Yes - get both done or accept you may have to do the other before too long. Some specialists can replace just the bushes but when cost of parts and labour is taken into account it is about the same price to just get new arms put in.

Also when you get the work done get the uppers and rears checked as well.

Garry
Replace in pairs and get an alignment afterwards.


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Discussion Starter #4
Yes - get both done or accept you may have to do the other before too long. Some specialists can replace just the bushes but when cost of parts and labour is taken into account it is about the same price to just get new arms put in.

Also when you get the work done get the uppers and rears checked as well.

Garry
Great advise! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Replace in pairs and get an alignment afterwards.


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Thank you! Great advice! Although my mechanic said only the driver's side was bad, I assume they both have the same "wear and tear".
 

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Thank you! Great advice! Although my mechanic said only the driver's side was bad, I assume they both have the same "wear and tear".
They may or may not. My passenger side was worse than driver’s (clunking was from pass side only) but my 2012 full size is still riding on all original air struts!


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Yeah, I think it is a good idea to do both at the same time. Reason being that some components like bushings tend to dry up from time and exposure to elements. If one is obviously faulty, other one is usually not too far behind. They say, if you drive slow-ish the right side goes first if you're fast line driver, then left side dies faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I think it is a good idea to do both at the same time. Reason being that some components like bushings tend to dry up from time and exposure to elements. If one is obviously faulty, other one is usually not too far behind. They say, if you drive slow-ish the right side goes first if you're fast line driver, then left side dies faster.
I agree and the quote is definitely me...... Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They may or may not. My passenger side was worse than driver’s (clunking was from pass side only) but my 2012 full size is still riding on all original air struts!


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Thank you! That leads to another story. I initially took the vehicle to my mechanic as I knew the "clunking noise" was over my ability to repair. He diagnosed a leaking front passenger air strut and stated it was making the noise. $1,03.72 later, I still have the same noise. I called BS, but he assured me that was or may have been part of the problem. Thankfully I found this forum and the mechanic has been fired!
 

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Jim, while mechanic may have given you wrong reassurances, you may be being too harsh on him. If the strut in fact was leaking, regardless if source of clunking or not, if left unsolved, leaking strut will significantly shorten the life of /or kill the compressor, which is at least $700.
If mechanic did not replace that strut without necesity- not a worsest thing that could have happen.
I can give you list of other "consumables" in the suspension that can cause clunking under various conditions and/or handling issues:
Outer/inner tie rod (rarely but still subject to fail and is wearable item)
Sway bar bushings (often, like 40/50k often)
Sway bar links (not too often but given the low-ish price tag, you want to throw these in with new sway bar bushings)
Also: your transmission fluid IS NOT lifetime fluid.
If your RRS is 2012, refreshing fluids in differentials, transfer, transmission and new filter in ACE (if you have one) would be good idea if you're planning on keeping the vehichle.
Just my 2 cents.
 

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If the strut was leaking the car would be settling on that side over night - no mention of this so I say BS.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If the strut was leaking the car would be settling on that side over night - no mention of this so I say BS.
The vehicle never settled on the side the strut he replaced. I think it was BS it was leaking as the mechanic saw this as an easy money maker for him. Had he truly listened and taken the RR for a quick test drive while hitting the brakes, he would have heard the clunking noise. This mechanic has been fired!
 

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Had he truly listened and taken the RR for a quick test drive while hitting the brakes, he would have heard the clunking noise. This mechanic has been fired!
While that can be a symptom of a few things such as loose bolts/nuts in the brakes, loose wheel nuts etc - the most obvious thing on these cars are lower control arms and/or ball joints - this is where you start looking first.
 
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